Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 385

TRAITORS' CORNER
For an unusual eating experience, try El Rincón de los Canallas (“Traitor's Corner”), at
Tarapacá 810 (entry only by prior reservation on T 2 26325491; map pp.382-383). It was once
a secret meeting place for the opposition during Pinochet's dictatorship, and though this is
not the original site, you still need a password to enter. When asked, “Quién vive, canalla?”,
respond “Chile libre, canalla.” (Pinochet called his detractors “canallas”, so the exchange roughly
means: “Who's there, traitor?” “Free Chile, traitor.”) Against a nostalgic backdrop including
wall-to-wall rallying slogans, this intimate bar offers traditional Chilean grub served up under
names like Pernil Canalla (“Traitor's Ham”, a roasted leg of pork). Mains CH$4000-7000.

Barandiarán Patio Bellavista; map p.386. Spicy and
flavourful Peruvian concoctions, including superb ceviche
and sea bass dishes; the pisco sours stand out, too. Ceviche
CH$5700.
El Bodeguero Manuel Montt 382; map pp.382-383.
Rough-and-ready bar with cheap lunch deals: an excellent
place to experience eating and drinking like a Santiago
student. Three-course lunch including bife a lo pobre (steak
with chips, fried onion and fried egg) CH$3400.
Empanatodos Pío Nono 153; map p.386. Bustling takeaway
doing brisk business, turning out 33 types of delicious empa-
nadas including delicious manjar -filled ones. From CH$1000.
Galindo Constitución; map p.386. Perpetually packed
spot serving traditional Chilean food, such as hearty pastel
de choclo , cazuela and lomo a la pobre , along with beers
until late, even on weekdays. If sitting outside, you will be
entertained by street musicians. Pastel de choclo CH$4500.
El Huerto Orrego Luco 054; map pp.382-383. An excellent
choice for a wide variety of lovingly prepared vegetarian
dishes, such as hearty burritos. Omelette CH$5300.
Liguria Av Providencia 1373; map pp.382-383. Large
portions of Chilean and Italian dishes are on offer in this
ever-popular and charming bar-bistro, as well as large
sandwiches, good salads and superb pisco sours. Clams in
parmesan cheese CH$7800. Also has a sister restaurant at
Pedro de Valdivia 047.

DOWNTOWN
Emporio La Rosa Merced 291, near the corner of Lastarria;
map p.385. Café and ice-cream haven with tables out onto
the street. Good coffee, too, and the hot chocolate comes
highly recommended. One ice-cream scoop CH$2600.
Gatopardo Lastarria 192; map p.385. Excellent Chilean
and Mediterranean cuisine, good value at lunchtimes,
served in an attractive interior. The stuffed calamari are
particularly tasty. Fixed-price lunch CH$7000. Closed Sun.
Kintaro Monjitas 460; map p.385. Tasty and authentic
sushi, along with teriyaki and udon dishes, all at very
reasonable prices. Very popular at lunchtimes. Chicken
katsu CH$3900. Closed Sun.
Mercado Central See p.381; map p.385. The best place
for large portions of inexpensive fish and seafood, the
fish market's bustling eateries offer such delights as pastel
de jaiva (creamy crab pie) (CH$4800) and machas a la
Parmesana (CH$4500); Donde Augusto is a popular spot.
Lunch only.
El Rápido Bandera 371; map p.385. Established
empanadería serving perfectly prepared empanadas and
sandwiches; a snack counter rather than a restaurant.
Empanadas from CH$850.
Sur Patagonico Lastarria 96; map p.385. Well-prepared
Patagonian-style lamb and other tasty dishes served
within a cosy, rough-hewn wood interior (Magellanic lamb
with smoked polenta CH$9900).

4

BARRIO BRASIL AND BARRIO YUNGAY
Charro de Oro Av Ricardo Cumming 342A; map pp.382-
383. Spicy and inexpensive Mexican tacos (from CH$1000)
and burritos served in an intimate, no-frills setting. Open
evenings only, until 1.30am Fri & Sat; closed Sun.
Ocean Pacific 's Av Ricardo Cumming 221; map pp.382-
383. Popular restaurant serving consistently good fish
dishes (though not the cheapest), including an excellent
salmon platter for two. Check out the elaborate puffer fish
decorations. Mains CH$7000-10,000.
Peluquería Francesa Compañia de Jesús 2789 T 2
26825243; map pp.382-383. Take a trip back in time at this
charming restaurant above a nineteenth-century hair salon,
where each table literally bursts with quirky memorabilia.
Excellent French cuisine ( coq au vin CH$6500), and good
cocktails.

BELLAVISTA AND PROVIDENCIA
Backstage Patio Bellavista; map p.386. Half bar, half
decent pizzeria, popular Backstage has an open-air patio,
perfect for enjoying live jazz on Sat nights. Pizza from
CH$4000.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Astrid y Gastón Antonio Bellet 201
T 2 26509125, W astridygaston.com; map
pp.382-383. Flawless fusion cuisine with
Peruvian, Spanish, French and Japanese
influences by Lima's famous chef, Gaston
Acurio. The tuna steak (CH$16,800)
borders on divine. Reservations required.