Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 291

fairy-lit shack is one of the best places in town to hear
quality DJs, both local and international, with a recent
set from Britain's very own Quantick aka Will Holland.
They also do Mexican food, should you need something
to soak up all the tequila. Mon-Thurs 7pm-1am, Fri & Sat
7pm-2.30am, Sun 7pm-midnight.
Socaldinho Camarão Av Visconde de Jequitinhonha 106
T 81 3462 9500. If you fancy some footie action, head
here and join the locals for a beer over a gripping game
of Brazilian futebol as you munch on some peixe a móda
(R$34.95 for three people). Mon-Thurs 11.30am-1.30am,
Fri & Sat 11.30am-2am.

colonial architecture: a maze of cobbled
streets, hills crowned with brilliant white
churches, pastel-coloured houses,
Baroque fountains and graceful squares.
Founded in 1535, the old city is spread
across several small hills looking back
towards Recife. Besides this historic
centre, the city is renowned for its street
Carnaval , which attracts visitors from all
over the country, as well as sizeable
contingents from Europe.
Despite its size, Olinda can effectively
be considered a neighbourhood of
Recife: a high proportion of its residents
commute to the city so transport links
are good, with buses leaving every
few minutes.

SHOPPING
Mercado de São José Rua São José, Santo Antônio.
Stock up on some local crafts, or simply peruse the stacks
of curious herbal medicines and everyday items as locals
go about their daily shopping. Mon-Sat 6am-6pm, Sun
6am-noon.
Shopping Paço Alfãndega Rua Alfândega 35, Recife
Island W pacoalfandega.com.br. Chic, refurbished former
customs building on Recife Island, housing the typical
range of Brazilian chain stores and fast-food outlets as
well as the swanky La Douane Bistro (see p.293). Mon-Sat
10am-10pm, Sun noon-9pm.
Shopping Recife Rua Pe. Carapuceiro 777, Boa Viagem
W shoppingrecife.com.br. Suburban shopping mall, one of
Brazil's largest. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm, Sun noon-9pm.

3

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Olinda's colonial highlights include
more churches than you could wish to
see in an afternoon, and a curious puppet
museum. Much of the appeal lies in
wandering through the picturesque
streets.

Alto da Sé
Olinda's hills are steep, so don't try to do
too much too quickly. A good spot to
have a drink and plan your attack is the
Alto da Sé , the highest square in town,
not least because of the stunning view of
Recife's skyscrapers shimmering in the
distance, framed in the foreground by
Olinda's church towers, gardens and palm
trees. There's always an arts and crafts
market here during the day, which is
busiest in the late afternoon; though
there's plenty of good stuff, there's little
here you can't get cheaper in Recife or
the interior.
he Igreja da Sé (daily 8am-5pm; free),
on the praça , is bland and austere inside
- more of a museum than a living church
- but is worth a look if only to see the
eighteenth-century sedan chair and
large wooden sculptures in the small
room at the northeast wing. It's also
notable for being at the highest point in
the region's landscape, making it visible
from all the other churches for miles
around. The viewing patio at the back
right-hand side of the church offers a
particularly beautiful view of the city.

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange There are plenty of banks with
ATMs in Boa Viagem and Recife including HSBC, though it's
safer to use an ATM in one of the shopping centres.
Consulates UK, Av Agamenon Magalhães 4775, 8th floor
( T 81 2127 0200); US, Rua Gonçalves Maia 163, Boa Vista
( T 81 3416 3050).
Hospital Real Hospital Português de Beneficência, Av
Agamenon Magalhâes 4760, Boa Vista ( T 81 3416 1122).
Internet Caravela's Cyber Café, Rua do Bom Jesus 183,
Recife Antigo (daily 8am-6pm; R$3/hr); Espaço Net,
Rua Visconde de Jequitinonha, Boa Viagem (Mon-Sat
7am-7.30pm; R$3/hr).
Laundries Aqua Clean Lavanderia, Av Eng Domingos
Ferreira 4023, Boa Viagem ( T 81 3466 0858).
Pharmacies Farmácia Pague Menos, Av Cons Aguiar
4635, Boa Viagem, 24hrs ( T 81 3301 4209).
Post o ce Av Guararapes 61, Santo Antônio (Mon-Fri
9am-5pm; T 81 3425 3644).

OLINDA
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage
Site, OLINDA is, quite simply, one of
Brazil's most impressive examples of