Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 283

Ì Pousada Tatu Feliz Vale do Capão T 75 3344 1124,
W infochapada.com/pousadatatufeliz.htm. Friendly multi-
lingual service, free wi-fi and an excellent breakfast make
this new-ish pousada a really good bet for expl oring the
park. Dorms (minimum of 3 people required) R$35 , doubles
R$95
Pousada Verde Vale do Capão T 75 3344 1083, W pousada
verde.com. A large pousada with a good variety of rooms ,
all featu ring T TV and fan. Decent breakfast included. R$50 ,
doubles R$90

rocks provide dizzying viewing points.
Hiking to the base of the waterfall is a
somewhat more difficult trek than that of
reaching the top, however, and in high
season the caves that serve as overnight
sleeping spots (camping gear provided or
pre-arranged by guides) can get overrun
with visitors.
Another famous spot is the Morro do Pai
Inácio , a 1000m peak with fabulous views
over the cactus-strewn tablelands, while
the Gruta do Lapão , a kilometre-long
cathedral of gorge and canyon formed
from layered sandstone, lies just 5km
north of Lençóis. Further afield, you may
wish to follow the trails of the Vale do
Patí to spectacular swim-spots like Poço
Encantado or marshy Marimbus, great
for kayaking.

Northeast
THE NORTHEAST (Nordeste) of Brazil
covers an immense area and features a
variety of climates and scenery, from dense
equatorial forests to palm-fringed beaches.
It comprises all or part of the nine states of
Maranhão, Piauí, Ceará, Rio Grande do
Norte, Paraíba, Pernambuco, Alagoas,
Sergipe and the important tourist centre
of Bahia (see p.275). Taken together,
these form roughly a fifth of Brazil's land
area and have a combined population of
36 million.
Notorious for its poverty within Brazil,
the region has been described as the
largest concentration of poor people in
the Americas. Yet it's also one of the most
rewarding areas of Brazil to visit, with
a special identity and culture nurtured by
fierce regional loyalties. The Northeast
has the largest concentration of Brazilians
of African descent, most of whom live on
or near the coast, mainly around Salvador
(see p.276) and Recife. In the sertão
(the semi-arid region inland), though,
Portuguese and Amerindian influences
predominate in popular culture and racial
ancestry. The region also offers more than
two thousand kilometres of practically
unbroken tropical beaches with white
sands, blue sea and palm trees.

3

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus 3 buses run between Salvador and Lençóis each day
(6hr; R$70; W realexpresso.com.br), each continuing on to
Palmeiras (45min). From there, collective taxis are available
for the bumpy 7km ride to/from Capão (30min; R$10).
By plane Azul ( W voeazul.com.br) flies between Salvador
and Aeroporto Coronel Horácio de Matos ( T 75 3625 8100;
R$100; 1hr), 20km from Lençóis, each Thurs and Sun. Taxis
ply the route into town (20min; R$30), with passengers
often sharing vehicles.

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Guides are most often arranged by pousadas themselves,
but you can arrange your own (see below). Three-day treks
cost around R$800 including accommodation, breakfast
and a basic but tasty evening meal (stock up on your own
food for lunch).
Associação dos Conductores de Visitantes , in Capão
( T 75 3344 1087, E acv@valedocapão.com) or Lençóis
(Rua 10 de Novembro 22 T 75 3344 1425).

ACCOMMODATION
Numerous pousadas are located in Lençóis and more
are scattered throughout Vale do Capão. Book as far in
advance as possible. Capão also offers a few basic restau-
rants, including a great pizzeria.
Hostel Chapada Rua Boa Vista 121, Lençóis T 75 3334
1497, W hostelchapada.com.br. Attractive and brightly
painted HI hostel in the mi ddle of f town. Basic b reakfast
served and free wi-fi. Dorms R$35 , doubles R$85
Pousada Safira Rua Miguel Calmon 124, Lençóis T 75
3334 1443, W pousadasafira.com. Best-value budget
pousada in Lençóis - supe r-friendly and all rooms have
their own bathroom. R$80

NORTHEAST CLIMATE
The rains come to Maranhão in February, in
Piauí and Ceará in March, and points east in
April, lasting about three months. That said,
Maranhão can be wet even in the dry
season, and Salvador's skies are liable to
give you a soaking any time of year.