Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Pousada Estrela do Mar Second Beach T 75 3652 1784,
T 75 8805 8554. Spotless, albeit slightly poky, rooms (with
a/c and en suite) at this relaxed pousada with a communal
terrace with hammocks overlooking Second Beach. You may
well catch a glimpse of semi-resid ent m onkey Chico who
tends to swing around the premises. R$60
gigantic waterfalls, rivers, scrubland and
forest. The region is essentially a natural
gateway between the semi-desertified
Bahian sertão and the vast rocky Brazilian
Planalto Central to the south and west.
Once here, most visitors undertake a
three- or six-day organized trek (guide
essential), staying in local houses along
the way with meals included. The
experience is like no other in Brazil: you
gain a glimpse of the slow sertanejo pace
of life and rural northeastern hospitality
while taking in stunning scenery. The
challenge of a long hike is not for
everyone but guides tailor trips to your
ability and fitness. It's advised to come
here in the cooler months between April
and October - though conversely the
region's waterfalls are at their most
spectacular in rainy (and high) season,
from December to March.
Though the sizeable and attractive
ex-diamond-mining town of Lençóis
provides the most obvious access to
the northern half of the park - and
offers consummate facilities - most
independent/budget travellers choose
to go directly on to the community of
Vale do Capão within the park boundaries
itself. Long a bohemian hangout, young
people from Salvador come to Capão
in numbers to relax by the river, hike,
canoe and climb. In recent years smarter
pousadas have opened here, adding a new
level of alternative-chic with meditation,
massage and saunas, and drawing a
broader age group.
EATING AND DRINKING
There are plenty of cheap restaurants lining First and
Second beaches - you'll find everything from crêpes and
sushi to pizza, fruit, sandwiches and Bahian specialities.
Chez Max Third Beach T 75 3652 1754. This welcoming
Italian restaurant has plenty of daily specials to tickle your
tastebuds, as well as wood-oven pizzas (from R$22).
Jamaica Second Beach T 75 3652 1669. Bob Marley
murals cover the walls of this Bahian churrascaria (steak
house; R$28), which serves some good-quality meat,
grilled right before your eyes.
Mar dos Corais Praça Aureliano Lima 100, town centre
T 75 3652 1091. A 10min walk from First Beach, this is
the perfect place at any time of day but particularly for
breakfast: coffees, fresh juices, as well as all sorts of
delectable sweetmeats (R$5-15) and fruit salads (R$3).
Daily noon-11pm.
3
NIGHTLIFE
Clubs, bars, beach and full moon parties - there's always
something going on in Morro and you won't need much
help in finding it. Second Beach is the place to start (and
often end) the evening, with dozens of caipirinha vendors
and bars playing beats catering to all musical tastes -
dancing on the beach goes on until the small hours. To
get to the clubs listed below, follow the path through the
town centre and head up the hill.
Pulsar Disco Caminho do Forte, W pulsardisco.com.br.
Surrounded by thick vegetation, this three-storey club
located on the side of a hill hosts themed nights, from
foam parties with house music DJs to “back to the 80s”
nights. Tues & Sat only from 11pm. R$30.
Toca do Morcego Caminho do Farol W tocadomorro
.com. Friday night is legendary at this club a 5min walk from
the centre. Soak in the sea view as you sip on unbelievably
potent caipirinhas and groove to dance tunes until the early
morning. Tues-Sun. Cover R$35.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
There is almost endless potential for hikes
in the national park. Some of the most
famous or accessible locations are not too
far from Capão or Lençóis and can be
visited on day or multi-day excursions.
The (guided) hike between the two
communities is usually undertaken over
three days, though its most famous sight
- Brazil's highest waterfall, the Cachoeira
da Fumaça (sometimes called the
Cachoeira Glass) - can be visited on
a circular hike from either location. Here,
a stream descends 400m over a cliff face,
vaporizing into a fine mist before it
reaches the bottom. Jagged overhanging
THE CHAPADA DIAMANTINA
One of Brazil's most exciting locations for
hiking, climbing and rural sightseeing,
the PARQUE NACIONAL DA CHAPADA
DIAMANTINA offers 38,000 square
kilometres of awe-inspiring table
mountains, jagged rocky peaks and
wide-open canyons interspersed with
 
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