Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 269

Aleijadinho's last works, and the classic
view from the church steps is the most
photographed in the state. Nearby, at
Rua Padre Toledo 190, in the former
home of one of the heroes of the
Inconfidência Mineira , the Museu Padre
Toledo (Tues-Sun 9am-5pm; R$5) has
period furnishings, art and documents
dating back to the eighteenth century,
and a preserved slave quarters. The slaves
themselves built and worshipped at the
small, dignified and supremely attractive
Igreja da N.S. do Rosário dos Pretos
(Tues-Sun 10am-5pm; R$2), down the
hill, which also contains three sculptures
of black saints.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus The rodoviária is in the centre of town off Rua Gabriel
Passos. Buses leave regularly for São João del Rei (30min),
from where you can connect to other destinations.
By train The Maria Fumaça departs for São João del Rei on
Fri, Sat, Sun and public holidays at 1pm and 5pm. The train
station is 1km southeast of the main square.
Tourist information The Secretária de Turismo is on the
main square at Rua Resende Costa 71 (daily 9am-5pm;
T 32 3355 1212).

large enough for two or three people. Website W tiradentes
.net offers good what's-on listings (in Portuguese).
Confidências Mineiras Rua Ministro Gabriel Passos 26.
Warm, candlelit place serving large (for three) portions
of mineira delights such as mashed pork and bean Tutú
cooked in cachaça (R$55), or petiscos to accompany your
choice of their near-infinite range of cachaças. Thurs-Sun
noon-midnight.
Divino Sabor Rua Gabriel Passos 300. Popular lunch only
place in simple surroundings with wooden tables on a
patio outside. Mineira buffet for R$18 or reasonable price
por kilo . Closed Mon.
Ì Libertas Espaço Cultural Rua Israel Pinheiro 106. A
short uphill walk from the railway station (20min from the
main square), this is the town's most happening outdoor
space for live music and themed festivals, from fashion to
cachaça . Two bars and a nightclub keep things lively most
weekends; ask around town to see what's on. Daily til late.
Mandalun Largo das Forras 88. Although the menu may
at first seem expensive, there are some cheap international
options among the selection of Lebanese food, such as
chunky hamburgers (R$6), sandwiches (R$12) and pizzas
(R$16). Daily noon-8pm, Thurs-Sun til 11pm.
Panela de Minas Rua Gabriel Passos 23. Right by the
square, the town's most popular lunch spot (daily
11am-4pm) serves typical mineira food por kilo laid out on
a raised hearth, plus decent pizzas on weekend nights.
Viradas do Largo Rua do Moinho 11. On a backstreet a
5min walk behind the rodoviária , this is considered the best
value in town for good food. While not cheap, the huge
portions (R$40-70) serve up to three, most guests seated
around large antique tables. Wed-Sun noon-10pm.

3

ACCOMMODATION
Tiradentes caters primarily for the well-to-do but the
addition of a new HI hostel/pousada has made it a little
more affordable. Try visiting midweek when pousadas
offer discounts - or stay in São João.
Pousada Arco-Iris Rua Frederico Ozanan 340 T 32 3355
1167. Next to the Pousada da Bia , this place has clean,
spacious rooms with priva te bath , a big back garden and
a little pool. Free internet. R$125
Ì Pousada da Bia Rua Frederico Ozanan 330 T 32
3355 1173, W pousadadabia.com.br. Set in a beautiful plot
of land with a little herb garden and pool, and offering
a variety of comfortable, multicoloured rooms in rustic
conver ted outhouse surroundings. Small charge for wi-fi.
R$130
Vila Libertas HI Hostel and Pousada Av Gov. Israel
Pinheiro 72 T 32 3355 2256, W hihostelbrasil.com.br. A
little way out of town (beyond the train station) but luckily
a bar, cultural centre and nightclub are right on hand.
Clean and orga nized, w ith a good breakfast. 5-bed dorms
R$40 , doubles R$130

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange All banks with ATMs are located
off Rua Gabriel Passos, close to Largo das Forras.
Internet Game Mania Lan House, Rua dos Incônfidentes
(daily 9am-10.30pm).
Post o ce Rua Resende Costa 73 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm).

DIAMANTINA
Beautiful DIAMANTINA , six hours by
bus from Belo Horizonte, is the most
isolated of the historic towns yet well
worth the trip. Nestled in the heart of
the Serra do Espinhaço, it is surrounded
by a breathtakingly wild and desolate
landscape. Named after the abundant
diamond reserves first exploited in 1729,
the town is rich in history and was
designated a UNESCO World Heritage
Site in 1999. It retains a lively, friendly
atmosphere and is the hometown of

EATING AND DRINKING
Most restaurants and bars are centred on Largo das Forras,
and often feature throngs of a uent Brazilians. Your best
bet if in a small group is to share a comida mineira , usually