Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 268

from furniture to paintings, housed in a
beautifully restored mansion.

Pantanal Rua Getúlio Vargas. A popular joint to have an
evening drink close to the Igreja do N.S. do Carmo. Daily
6pm-late.
Pelourinho Rua Hermilio Alves 276. A decent and cheap
self-service place with a great variety of mineira food,
right in the centre of town by the stream. Daily 11am-4pm
and 6pm-midnight.
Villeiros Rua Padre José Maria Xavier 132, close to São
Francisco church. A relaxed por kilo restaurant at lunchtime
with a good range of typical mineira food. At night there's
a more expensive à la carte menu from R$40 for two. Daily
11am-4pm and 7pm-late.

Igreja de São Francisco de Assis
The most impressive and important of
the city's churches, the 1774 Baroque
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis (daily
8am-5.30pm, Sun until 4pm; R$2),
gives onto the beautiful Praça Frei
Orlando, lined with towering palms.
A deceptively large place with carvings
by Aleijadinho and his pupils, it also has
a graveyard to the rear where President
Tancredo Neves is buried. One of Brazil's
most revered politicians, he is credited
with masterminding the return to
democracy in the 1980s.

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange All banks and ATMs are on
Av Tancredo Neves.
Internet World Game Internet, at Rua Ministro Gabriel
Passos 281 (daily 9am-10pm). The mall adjoining Del Rei
Café offers free wi-fi.
Post o ce Av Tiradentes 500 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat
9am-noon).
Shopping The Feria do Artesanato , held every Sun on
Av Presidente Tancredo Neves, sells local crafts.

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ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus The rodoviária ( T 32 3373 4700) is 2km northeast
of town; outside, take a local bus from in front of the
Drogaria Americana and get off at Av Tancredo Neves. Taxis
( T 32 3371 2028) charge R$18.
Destinations Belo Horizonte (8 daily; 3hr 30min); Ouro
Preto (daily 3am and 6pm; 4hr); Rio (3 daily; 5hr 30min);
São Paulo (8 daily; 7hr 30min); Tiradentes (every 30min;
30min).
By train The Maria Fumaça leaves São João for Tiradentes
on Fri, Sat, Sun and public holidays at 10am and 3pm,
returning at 1pm and 5pm (R$20 single, R$34 return).
Tourist information The tourist o ce (Mon-Fri 8am-
6pm T 32 3372 7388) is located right in the centre by the
stream on Av Tancredo Neves.

TIRADENTES
With its quaint historic houses,
cobblestone streets and horse-drawn
carriages, TIRADENTES could be mistaken
for a film set. Surrounded by mountains,
the charming town is better appreciated
during the week, as Brazilian tourists
swarm in at weekends for a romantic
break or to shop at the many little
boutiques around town. Costs here are
the most expensive in Minas, but despite
this it's worth staying a night or two to
fully appreciate the rich atmosphere,
explore the town's cobbled alleyways
- and, if you like the outdoors - go
walking for an hour or two in the
surrounding countryside.

ACCOMMODATION
Brasil Av Tancredo Neves 395 T 32 3371 2804. Facing the
river, the biggest hotel in town gives a whole new meaning
to faded grandeur, with fifty very simple, clean rooms that
surely haven't changed much since the place opened in
1881. Two ot her eq ually faded and similarly priced options
are close by. R$80
Pousada Estação do Trem Rua Maria Tereza 45 T 32
3372 1985, W pousadaestacaodotrem.com.br. Wooden
furnishings, rugs and soft lighting make this historic house
a lovely option, right by the train to Tira dentes. Wi-fi and
breakfast included. Good value at R$130

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Despite being described as a cidade
histórico , modern Tiradentes is little
more than a village, which at least
ensures that everything is easily found.
The chief landmark, pretty much at the
highest point in town, is the Igreja Matriz
de Santo Antônio (daily 9am-5pm;
R$5). Among the largest and most
gold-laden of Minas Gerais' Baroque
churches, it also features some of

EATING AND DRINKING
Cabana do Zotti Av Tiradentes 805. Drinking spot with
snacks and a pleasant atmosphere within a stone, brick
and wood setting; busy at weekends. Mon-Sat from 6pm.
Del Rei Cafe Av Tiradentes 553. Open until late, this
restaurant-cum- chopperia serves reasonable pizza, lunch-
time pratos feitos and tasty filled crêpes.