Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 265

have been an enslaved African king who
bought himself and his people out of
slavery and became fabulously wealthy.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Pouso do Chico Rei Rua Brigadeiro
Musqueira 90, Centro T 31 3551 1274,
W pousodochicorei.com.br. It's worth
paying the extra to stay at this friendly,
historic family pousada, formerly graced
by pre-eminent Brazilian singers Vinicius
de Moraes and Dorival Caymmi. Wooden
floorboards provide a rustic touch while
the upstairs living room with grandfather
clock conveys a home-from-home feel.
All rooms are individually furnished and
some have commanding views of the
Carmo church. A large breakfast is served
in the dining room (a cosy room with
antiques and fireplace), while compli-
mentary tea and cake i is avai lable at any
time, as is wi-fi access. R$190

Teatro Municipal and Igreja do Pilar
A little further west of Praça Tiradentes
is the beautiful and still-functioning
Teatro Municipal (Mon-Fri 9am-5.30pm,
Sat & Sun 10am-5pm; R$3), which is
worth a look for its simple wooden
interior; people used to bring their own
chairs to performances. According to the
Guinness Book of Records , this is the oldest
opera house in the Americas, inaugurated
on June 6, 1770.
If you continue downhill to the foot of
Rua Brigador Mosqueira , you'll come to
the early eighteenth-century Igreja Matriz
N.S. do Pilar (Tues-Sun 9-10.45am &
noon-4.45pm; R$4), the most opulent
church in Minas Gerais, as well as one of
the oldest. Over the top even by Baroque
standards, it's said to be the second
richest in Brazil, with 434kg of gold and
silver used in its decoration.

3

ACCOMMODATION
Make sure that you book in advance in high season and
at weekends. Expect substantial discounts midweek and
off-season.
Brumas Hostel Ladeira de São Francisco de Paula 68
T 31 3551 2944, W brumashostel.com.br. This clean and
pleasant HI hostel has a communal area with couches and
books. Gue st kitc hen, laun dry ser vice and decent break-
fast. Dorms R$36 , doubles R$100
O Sorriso do Lagarto Rua Conseheiro Quintiliano 271
T 31 3551 4811, W osorrisodolagarto.com.br. A 10min
walk from Praça Tiradentes, this hostel has big clean dorms
with a good breakfast inclu ded, b rightly decorated rooms
and a guest kitchen. Dorms R$35
Ouro Preto Hostel Travessa das Lajes 32, Antônio Dias
T 31 3551 6011, W ouropretohostel.com. Grand views and
a relaxed feel at this HI hostel a short walk from the Igreja
da Conceição. Attractive commu nal are as and pr ivate rooms.
Breakfast buffet included. Dorms R$34 , doubles R$90
Pousada Imperatriz Rua Direita 179 T 31 3551 5435.
Great value, these very simple but (mostly) spacious double
rooms have a TV and, in some cases, a private ba throo m.
Prime location by the bars below Praça Tiradentes. R$70
Pouso dos Sinos Rua Costa Senna 30 T 31 3551 1138,
W pousodossinos.com.br. This rambling antique-filled
building in an ideal location next to the Igreja de São
Francisco offers large, attractive rooms with up to five
single beds; so me ha ve privat e bath . No internet or
breakfast. Dorms R$40 , doubles R$110

Parque Estadual do Itacolomi
A twenty-minute bus journey outside of
town (numerous local buses pass), the
Parque Estadual do Itacolomi ( T 31 8433
2266; Tues-Sun 8am-5pm, last entry
3.30pm; R$7) is a great place to spend
a day immersed in nature, with well-
organized trails ranging in length from
1.5km to 16km. Camping is permitted
here if you're feeling adventurous (around
R$15; phone to confirm; hiking guides
also available).
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus The rodoviária ( T 31 3559 3225) is on Rua Padre
Rolim 661, a 15min uphill walk northwest of the city
centre. Buses from Mariana stop right by Praça Tiradentes:
alight here for accommodations and restaurants.
Destinations Belo Horizonte (10 daily; 2hr); Brasília (daily
at 7.30pm; 11hr 30min); Mariana (every 30min; 30min);
Rio (daily at 10pm; 7hr); São João del Rei (4 daily; 4hr).
By train An historic steam train ( W tremdavale.org) runs
between Ouro Preto and Mariana on Fri, Sat & Sun, leaving
at 11am and returning at 2pm (1hr; R$18 single, R$30
return). The train station ( T 31 3551 7705) is south of
town on Praça Cesário Alvim 102.
Tourist information The helpful Centro Cultural Turístico
is at Praça Tiradentes 4 (daily 8.15am-7pm).

EATING AND DRINKING
Good cheap places to eat are scattered throughout Ouro
Preto. Night-time action is centred on Rua Direita (aka Rua
Conde de Bobadella) where students spill out of bars to chat