Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 254

draws are its great restaurants and bars,
and stunning surrounding scenery, from
rainforest and waterfall to hidden coves,
islands and beaches . Paraty really comes
alive for its annual Literary Festival
(“FLIP”; W lip.org.br) in July or August,
which in past years has drawn such
figures as Tom Stoppard and Brazil's own
Chico Buarque, and requires booking
accommodation well in advance.

person, leaving Paraty at noon, stopping
at three or four islands, giving time for
a swim, and returning at 6pm. For an
hour's hike , walk the trail to perfect
Praia do Sono , 12km southwest of town.
A little way beyond Praia do Sono
(21km from Paraty) and reached by a steep
winding road is the village of Trindade
(7 daily buses; 45min). Sandwiched
between the ocean and Serra do Mar, it's
crammed with backpackers and trippers in
peak season, camping on the beaches or
staying in one of numerous pousada/
hostels. Famed for its beaches , the best are
across the rocky outcrops to Praia Brava
and Praia do Meio , some of the most
attractive mainland beaches on this stretch
of coast, and completely unspoilt.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus The rodoviária is about 0.5km from the old town
on Rua Jango de Padúa.
Destinations Rio (7 daily; 5hr); São Paulo (5 daily; 5hr);
Trindade (7 daily; 45min); Ubatuba (6 daily; 2hr); and
Angra dos Reis for Ilha Grande (5 daily; 2hr).
Tourist information On the corner of Av Roberto
Silveira and Praça Chafariz (daily 8am-7pm; T 24 3371
1897).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
One of Brazil's first planned urban
projects, Paraty's centre is a warren of
narrow, pedestrianized cobbled streets
bordered by houses built around quaint
courtyards. The cobbles of the streets are
arranged in channels to drain off storm
water and allow the sea to enter and wash
the streets at high tides.

3

Churches
Paraty's churches traditionally each
served a different sector of the
population. Nossa Senhora dos Remédios
(daily 9am-5pm), on the Praça da
Matriz, is the town's most imposing
building. Originally built on the site in
1668, the current construction dates
from 1873 with building having begun
84 years earlier. Along Rua do Comércio
is the smallest church, the Igreja do
Rosário (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm), once used
by slaves, while at the southern edge of
the town, the Portuguese Baroque Igreja
de Santa Rita (Wed-Sun 10am-noon &
2-5pm) served freed mulattos and dates
from 1722. The oldest and most
architecturally significant of the town's
churches, it now houses the Museu de
Arte Sacra de Paraty , with religious
artefacts from all of the town's churches.

ACCOMMODATION
Casa do Rio Hostel Rua Antonio Vidal 120 T 24 3371
2223, W paratyhostel.com. A well-organized HI hostel
with a large communal area, social vibe and a variety of
dorms - compare a coup le bef ore choo sing. He lpful staff
and tours on offer. Dorms R$34 , doubles R$120
Ì Pousada Guaraná Rua Cinco 13, Portal de Paraty
T 24 3371 6362, W pousadaguarana.com.br. An artistic,
spacious, and very good-value pousada 10min from the
Centro Histórico. Superb breakfast, free use of bicycles,
a pool, plant-filled garden, soft music a nd attention to
detail all make this an ideal choice. R$160
Solar dos Gerânios Praça da Matriz T 24 3371 1550.
Beautiful Swiss-Brazilian-owned place filled with rustic
furniture and curios. Rooms are spartan but impeccable;
most have a balcony and all are en suite. Great value.
Reserv ations advised; request a room overlooking the
praça . R$130

Beaches and islands
From the Praia do Pontal , across the
Perequé-Açu River from town, and from
the port quay, boats leave for the beaches
of Parati-Mirim, Iririguaçu - known for its
waterfalls - Lula and Conceição. In fact,
there are 65 islands and about two
hundred beaches to choose from - ask
around for the current favourites. Hotels
and travel agents sell tickets for trips out to
the islands, typically for around R$40 per

EATING AND DRINKING
Café do Armazém Rua Dr. Samuel Costa 18. The best
coffee in town, to go with excellent filled tapioca wraps.
Amerindian crafts pepper the walls of the shop, while on
Sat nights (from 8pm) this is also the home of Paraty's best
samba sing-along.