Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 253

EATING
Most pousadas serve decent meals, and some gourmet
cooking, while there are also independent restaurants
where fish and seafood figure heavily. Rei do Moqueca at
Rua da Praia in Abraão serves reasonably priced meals,
while Rei dos Caldos offers wonderful fish soups. Tropicana
at Rua da Praia 28 serves an interesting menu of French
dishes with a Brazilian twist (from R$30), in a verdant
garden.

W campingflorestinha.com.br both have facilities such as a
restaurant and kitchen. For the more adventurous, try one
of the many tiny campsites at stunning and secluded Praia
do Aventureiro on the island's southwest coast.
Che Lagarto Praia do Canto, Abraão T 21 3361 9669,
W chelagarto.com. Much like the members of the same
chain in Rio (see p.250), this is a well-organized hostel
with breakfast served on a glo rious wo oden su n deck
overlooking the sea. Dorms R$36 , doubles R$152
Holandês Rua do Assembléia, Abraão T 24 3361 5034,
W holandeshostel.com.br. Always popular, this trendy HI
hostel is behind the beach next to the Assembléia de Deus.
Accommodation in dorms or lovely chalets (which sleep up
to 3) in lush gardens. Dorms R$40 , chalets R$130
Ì Lagamar Praia Grande de Araçatiba T 24 9221
8180, W pousadalagamar.com.br. Superb-value pousada
surrounded by lush jungle in a quiet fishing hamlet at
the island's western end. Generous seafood dinners and
large b reakfas t are included. Boat available direct from
Angra. R$160
Oásis Praia do Canto, Abraão T 24 3361 5549. Cosy,
friendly and one of the nicest pousadas on the island.
Rooms are unpretentious and simply furnished. It's located
at the far end of the beach, a 10min walk from the jetty.
R$160

PARATY AND AROUND
PA R AT Y , 236km from Rio along the
BR-101, is the Costa Verde's main
attraction, and rightly so. Inhabited
since 1650, Paraty remains much as it
was in its heyday as a staging post for the
eighteenth-century trade in Brazilian gold.
Today, UNESCO considers the city one
of the world's most important examples of
Portuguese colonial architecture, with all
the narrow cobbled streets and churches
you'd imagine, and it has been named a
national monument. Besides the town's
charmingly relaxed atmosphere, the main

3

PARQUE NACIONAL DO ITATIAIA
On the border with Minas Gerais, 167km west of Rio, the Parque Nacional do Itatiaia
takes its unusual name from an Indian word meaning “rocks with sharp edges”. Holding
the distinction of being Brazil's first national park (1937), it's incredibly varied, from dense
Atlantic forest in the foothills, through to treeless, grassy summits. The park's loftiest peak,
Agulhas-Negras , is the second highest in Brazil, at 2789m.
There's no shortage of walking trails here, as well as a couple of two-day walks for serious
hikers. The better, but more di cult, of the two is the Jeep Trail, which scales the valley
and ultimately reaches the peak of Agulhas-Negras. The other is the Tres Picos Trail - easier,
but care should still be taken as the path becomes narrow and slippery as it rises. A guide is
recommended for both trails (available from hotels within the park) and essential for the Jeep
Trail, for which you should seek prior permission from the IBAMA o ce at the park entrance.
Itatiaia is also a popular birdwatching destination, thanks to its varied terrain and flora:
highland species present in the park include the Itatiaia spinetail - a small, brownish, skulking
bird that occurs only in this range of mountains.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
Access to the park is via the town of Itatiaia - buses
between Rio and São Paulo stop here. Local buses
(30min) run from the footbridge in Itatiaia, a short
walk from the rodoviária , to the park visitors' centre.
Staying in the town of Itatiaia is the cheapest way to
visit, despite the 30min bus ride.

the “pousada” sign. Best option for budget travellers,
as it's basic and not especially attractive, but clean
and reliab le nev ertheless and includes a half-decent
breakfast. R$35
Hotel Simon Rodovia Br-485 Km12, PN Itatiaia
T 24 3352 1122. A huge hotel within the park
boundaries, this is the most convenient place to stay
if you are thinking of hiking the park's trails: the Tres
Picos trail begins just behind the hotel. Comfortable;
some r ooms have attractive views over the valleys.
R$160

ACCOMMODATION
Pousada Isa About 500m from the rodoviária ,
Itatiaia. Turn right out of the bus station and look for