Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 148

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day, let the park staff know, and you
won't have to pay twice.
ARRIVAL AND TOURS
By bus Regular buses (20-30min) shuttle throughout the
day from the corner of Maipú and Fadul in Ushuaia, not far
from the Muelle Turístico, to various points in the park.
Services are reduced, and sometimes halted, during the
colder months.
By taxi A taxi to the park from the centre of Ushuaia costs
around AR$220.
By train El Tren del Fin del Mundo (2-3 departures daily
to the park, 1-2 from the park; 40min each way; AR$155
round trip; ticket o ce at the Muelle Turístico; T 02901
431600, W trendelfindelmundo.com.ar) departs from its
main station, 8km west of Ushuaia, arriving at the park
station, 2km from the main gate. Used to transport wood
in the days of the penal colony, it's now little more than a
tourist toy train.
Tour operators Most travel agencies in Ushuaia offer
tours of the park (from AR$200, plus entrance fee).

out of town is the more interesting
museum at the Misión Salesiana , at RN3
Km2980 (Mon-Sat 9.30am-2.30pm
& 3-7pm, Sun 3-7pm; AR$5; T 02964
430667), a mission founded in 1899
to catechize the Selk'nam people. The
preserved chapel is a charming national
historic monument and other buildings
house an excellent museum of history,
anthropology and natural science,
detailing the decline of the Indians in the
face of massacres and disease. From town,
take bus line “D” from any of the bus
stops along San Martín.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane Río Grande Airport ( T 02964 431340) is 5km
west of town; a taxi costs around AR$30. Aerolineas
Argentina ( W aerolineas.com.ar) and LADE ( W lade.com
.ar) have irregular flights from here.
By bus Services arrive and depart from the terminal on
Finocchio, at Obligado, four blocks from the main avenue,
San Martín.
Destinations Punta Arenas in Chile (1-2 daily; 9hr); Río
Gallegos (1-2 daily; 10hr); and Ushuaia (every 30min-
1hr; 3hr 30min).

ACCOMMODAT ION
There are four rudimentary free campsites plus one
serviced campground at Lago Roca. The latter ( T 02901
433313, W confiterialagoroca.com.ar) is the only one with
any facilities (including hot showers, a café and a shop). It
also has a refugio with dorm bed s and a couple of self -
containe d cabin s. Camping/person AR$45 , dorms AR$50 ,
cabañas AR$80

INFORMAT ION
Tourist information The tourist o ce is on Plaza
Almirante Brown, at Rosales 350 (Dec-March Mon-Fri
9am-8pm, Sat & Sun 2-9pm; April-Nov Mon-Fri
9am-5pm; T 02964 431324, W riogrande.gov.ar).
Fishing licences For fishing licences and information,
visit the Asociación Argentina de Pesca con Mosca at
Montilla 1040 ( T 02964 421268).

RÍO GRANDE
Trout fishing aside, the only reason to be
in dreary, gusty RÍO GRANDE is to break
the trip between Ushuaia, 230km
southwest, and Patagonia. Built on its
namesake river, Río Grande consists of
grid after grid of flat urban sprawl, its
colourful houses and the “promenade of
lovers” along the main street the city's
only aesthetic saving grace. Sheep and oil
are the economic staples, while the
Monumento a la Trucha - a giant trout
statue on the RN3 - explains why
high-rolling anglers are drawn to the
nearby rivers.

ACCOMMODAT ION
Most hotels are fishing for wealthy anglers, leaving budget
travellers very low on options. If you want to brave the
relentless wind, try the wooded riverside campsite about
ten blocks from downtown on O'Higgins, at Montilla
( T 02964 420536; camping/person AR$20).
Hospedaje Noal Obligado 557 T 02964 427516.
Offering great value, this wood-panelled guesthouse
has plain, spotless rooms wit h comfor table beds and TV;
some have private bathrooms. AR$150

EATING AND DRINKING
Epa!!! Bar-Café Rosales 445 T 02964 425334. With
leather booths dolled up in 1950s-style shades of purple
and yellow, this diner does juices, cocktails, pizzas and,
during the day, an inexpensive set menu. Mains from
around AR$40. Sun 10am-midnight, Mon-Thurs 9am-
3am, Fri & Sat 9am-4/5am.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
he Museo Municipal Virginia Choquintel ,
at Alberdi 555 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat
3-7pm; free; T 02964 430647), has
exhibits on the region's indigenous and
pioneering history. A twenty-minute ride