Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 146

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bend ove r backwards t o help yo u. Dorms AR$100 , doubles
AR$320 , apartments AR$490
Yakush Piedrabuena 118 T 02901 435807, W hostel
yakush.com.ar. Spacious and modern yet move-right-in-
cosy, this central hostel, which overlooks the main drag,
has a piano and owners who know their stuff. The dorms
are roomy enough to spre ad out in, and one of the doubles
is en suite. Dorms AR$90 , doubles AR$280

spit over a fire pit in the display window, this is your place. An
all-you-can-eat parrilla including salads, a soft drink and
dessert costs AR$95. Daily noon-11pm.
Tante Sara San Martín 175 T 02901 433710,
W tantesara.com. Popular confitería and panadería , which
does a fine line in cakes, sandwiches and baguettes, as
well as decent coffee (AR$12-30). There's another branch
on the same road at no. 701. Sun-Thurs 8am-8.30pm, Fri
& Sat 8am-9/10pm.
El Turco San Martín 1410 T 02901 424711. This low-key
restaurant serves hearty portions of pizza, pasta, chicken
and steak, as well as empanadas . The food is nothing
to write home about, but prices are reasonable. Mains
AR$30-70. Mon-Sat noon-3pm & 8pm-midnight.
Volver Av Maipú 37 T 02901 444444, W volverushuaia
.com.ar. The usual seafood menu at the usual prices (mains
from around AR$70), but the portions are generous and
well prepared. Volver is an Ushuaia original and the place
is dripping with character and bric-a-brac, from faded
newspaper cuttings to old tango shoes to a lifesize statue
of Che. Tues-Sun noon-3pm & 7.30pm-midnight.

GUESTHOUSES
Both the guesthouses listed here include free breakfast
and internet/wi-fi access.
B&B Nahuel 25 de Mayo 440 T 02901 423068,
W bybnahuel.com.ar. The bright green exterior makes this
B&B easy to spot; inside are cosy, rather frilly rooms (one of
which has shocking pink walls you'll either love or hate)
with either shar ed or pr ivate bathrooms. There's also a
small TV lounge. AR$295
Ì Galeazzi-Basily B&B Gobernador Valedéz 323
T 02901 423213, W avesdelsur.com.ar. Run by hospitable
English- and French-speaking owners, this large family
house on a quiet residential street has small, simple
rooms, kitchen access, and hot drinks and cakes on offer
all day. The self-contained cabañas in the back yard offe r
more pr ivacy an d sleep up to four. Doubles AR$320 ,
cabañas AR$550

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Dublin 9 de Julio 168 T 02901 430744, W dublinushuaia
.com. This green-walled, red-roofed pub is a good place
for a draught beer (around AR$25), with a buzzing atmos-
phere and occasional live music. Apart from the Guinness
posters, however, there isn't much in the way of Hibernian
trappings. Daily 8pm-3/4am.
Ì Kuar Perito Moreno 2232 T 02901 437396, W kuar
.com.ar. Set in an attractive stone-and-timber building
right on the seafront, on the road to Río Grande, this bar-
restaurant has stupendous views and a blazing fire, as well
as fish and pasta dishes and its own delicious home-
brewed pale ale, amber ale and dark porter (each around
AR$25). Daily 3pm-4am.

EATING
Prices are very high in Ushuaia, with inexpensive options
thin on the ground. Seafood is king here, especially the tasty
centolla (king crab), though cordero (lamb), a Patagonian
speciality, is also well represented. Many places operate
restricted opening hours during the winter months.
Bambu Piedrabueno 276. You don't often see “vegeta-
rian”, “inexpensive” and “Ushuaia” in the same sentence,
but this Asian takeaway buffet fits the bill (large portions
under AR$20). Mon-Fri 11am-5pm.
Ì Bodegón Fueguino San Martín 895 T 02901
431972. Park yourself down on a sheepskin-draped
wooden bench in this historic wooden house (built in
1896) and order what this restaurant-bar does best -
succulent roast lamb, served with a choice of sauces. Good
home-brewed beer too. Mains AR$50-130. Tues-Sat
12.30-3pm & 8pm-midnight.
Ramos Generales Av Maipú 749 T 02901 424317,
W ramosgeneralesushuaia.com. An atmospheric bar-café-
bakery decked out with an eclectic array of knick-knacks
including rows of traditional penguin jugs (used for
serving wine) behind the bar. As well as good cakes,
sandwiches (AR$40-50) and picadas (shared platters)
there's a strong wine and beer list. Daily 9am-midnight.
La Rueda San Martín, at Rivadavia T 02901 436540. If you
have a bottomless hunger and are attracted to the various
slow-roasting animals (lamb, chicken, beef ) turning on the

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Kalma Restó Antartida Argentina 57
T 02901 425786, W kalmaresto.com.ar.
It used to be that the best meal in Ushuaia
was a fussy presentation in one of the
huge restaurants overlooking the harbour.
No more, now that Kalma Restó has
appeared on the scene. The chef himself
comes out to explain the dishes, which
are often adorned with edible flowers
and delicate sauces. Mains (AR$75-145)
include lamb cooked three ways, a
“Fuegian” paella, and centolla and roasted
pumpkin ravioli. Well worth a splurge.
Reservations recommended. Mon-Fri
12.30-3pm & 7-11.30pm, Sat 7-11.30pm.