Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 126

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange Banco Galicia, at Mitre 25 ( T 0280
445 2323), changes money and has an ATM, one of dozens
in the city.
Internet TeleNetK, Belgrano, at 25 de Mayo.
Laundry Servicios de Lavandería Morenas, Sarmiento, at
Marcos Zar ( T 0280 445 6969).

1

southern right whales that can be observed
directly from the beach of Puerto
Pirámides , the peninsula's only town, in
winter. You can also board a boat and see
the frolicking mammals up close - a truly
unforgettable experience. From October to
April you can spot groups of orca (killer
whales) on the hunt for baby sea lions.
With vast distances between viewing
areas and little in the way of public
transport, the easiest way to appreciate
the place is on a day-trip from Puerto
Madryn. You could also rent a car to visit
independently, which can be good value
if you are travelling in a group, but note
that most of the roads are dirt tracks and
can be a challenge if it has been raining.

DAY TRIPS FROM PUERTO
MADRYN
A visit to the stunning Península Valdés
marine reserve is a must, and a trip to the
penguin colony at Punta Tombo , a little
further afield, is also worthwhile. Puerto
Madryn was originally founded and settled
in 1865 by 153 Welsh families who
bravely battled the frigid weather and arid
land. Despite all odds, the town survived
and more settlers arrived, enabling the
fledgling community to expand to the
southeast, founding Trelew (pronounced
trey-le-oo) and Gaiman . Both are easily
reached by bus from Puerto Madryn, and
can be combined on a single day-trip.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus There are daily buses from Puerto Madryn to
Puerto Pirámides (Mon-Fri departing 6.30am, 9.45am &
4pm, returning 8.10am, 1pm & 6pm; Sat & Sun departing
9.45am, returning 6pm; 1hr 15min; the timetable fluctu-
ates quite a lot, especially in the low season, so double
check the latest information before setting off ).

ACCOMMODAT ION
It's much cheaper to stay in Puerto Madryn than within
the nature reserve at Puerto Pirámides, but if you prefer
the latter, there are a couple of options.
Bahía Ballenas Av de las Ballenas s/n T 0280 447 4110,
W bahiaballenas.com.ar. This hostel is the best bet for
backpackers. The two single-sex dorms are clean and

Península Valdés
PENÍNSULA VALDÉS is brimming with life.
More than a million Magellanic penguins
make their summer home here, along with
a permanent population of 75 colonies of
seals and sea lions, and over 2000 dolphins.
Topping even that is a breeding colony of

TOURS OF PENÍNSULA VALDÉS
Most people visit on an organized tour (10-12hr round-trip, bring warm clothes), most of
which follow the same itinerary, with minor variations according to the season and weather.
The first stop, a short drive out of town, is to pay the park entrance fee (AR$100) and visit the
information centre, followed by an impressive look out over the Isla de los Pájaros (Bird Island).
Next, across the isthmus on the peninsula proper, you'll stop off in Puerto Pirámides, where
sea-lion- and whale-watching boat trips are offered. From here you head north to Punto Norte,
at the far tip of the peninsula, to see sea lions, elephant seals and penguins sunbathing on the
beach; orcas sometimes make an appearance as well. You'll also see penguins up close at
Caleta Valdés, followed by more elephant seals and dolphins at Punta Delgada. Marine life is
present year-round but some viewing stations close from Easter to June; optimal viewing is
between September and February, but whales can be seen from June to December.

Argentina Vision Roca 536 ( T 0280 445 1427,
W argentinavision.com).

TOUR OPERATORS
Tours cost around AR$300, excluding an optional whale-
watching boat trip (from around AR$170) and the park
entry fee (AR$100). Recommended operators include:
Tito Bottazzi Brown, at Martín Fierro ( T 0280 447
4110).

For scuba-diving and snorkelling trips in the area
contact:
Scuba Duba Brown 893 T 0280 445 2699.