Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1
from the site and further afield, including
anthropomorphic vases and a humanoid
standing stone from another
pukará
.
Tilcara Hostel
Bolívar 166
T
0388 495 5105,
W
tilcara
hostel.com. A 10min walk from the bus station, this
hostel has clean dorms and excellent-value doubles
comple
te with
kitchen
and private bathroom. Dorms
AR$70
, doubles
AR$200
Humahuaca
HUMAHUACA
is a small, attractive place,
originally founded in 1591 and popular
with backpackers, with a wider spread of
budget accommodation than elsewhere.
Numerous shops, restaurants and craft
stalls stand all around the leafy plaza.
On the east side, the tiny
Iglesia de la
Candelaria
(daily noon-1pm; free),
constructed in 1631 and rebuilt in the
nineteenth century, has some interesting
artworks. Beside the church, steps lead
up to the base of the
Monumento a la
Independencia
, a masculine and dramatic
sculpture. There are awesome views from
here, pocked by human-size cacti.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus
Buses leave every hour from Jujuy and run up the
Quebrada to Purmamarca (1hr), Tilcara (1hr 30min-2hr)
and Humahuaca (3hr), dropping off locals at farms and
houses along the way. Only certain companies go all the
way to La Quiaca - look for El Quiaqueño, Panamericano
and Balut. Both Tilcara and Humahuaca have a central bus
terminal that offers luggage storage; at other towns you
will be dropped off at the main plaza.
HUMAHUACA
Hostal Humahuaca
Buenos Aires 447
T
0388 742 1064,
W
humahuacahostal.com.ar. Located just off the main
plaza, this small hostel has slightly dar
k but c
ool dorm
rooms se
t around a bright patio. Dorms
AR$40
, doubles
AR$140
Posada el Sol
Barrio Medalla Milagrosa (across the
river)
T
0388 421 1466,
W
elsolhosteldehumahuaca.com.
Follow the signs from the bus station to this small rustic
house on the outskirts of town. Small, comfortabl
e dorm
s
and do
ubles in
peaceful surroundings. Dorms
AR$45
,
doubles
AR$170
EATING AND DRINKING
TILCARA
El Nuevo Progreso
Lavelle 351. This intimate, candle-lit
spot serves delicious Andean cuisine in hearty portions.
The llama steaks are good, and there's a decent wine list
sourced from local
bodegas.
Live music some evenings.
Daily 6-11pm.
Los Puestos
Belgrano, at Padilla
T
0388 495 5100. For a
meal in exceptionally beautiful surroundings,
Los Puestos
rules supreme: the varied menu features tender grilled
llama, mouthwatering
empanadas
, juicy
humitas
and
succulent pasta, all at reasonable prices. Daily 11.30am-3pm
& 8.30pm-midnight.
INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information
The region's best tourist o
ce is
in Tilcara, at Belgrano 590 (daily 8am-noon and 1-9pm;
T
0388 495 5720). It has lists of accommodation through-
out the region and free maps. Otherwise there is a small
tourist o
ce in Humahuaca (Mon-Fri 9-6pm), in the
white colonial
cabildo
building on the plaza.
Tour operators
Tilcara Tours, at Necochea 250 in Jujuy
(
T
0388 422 6113), organizes guided tours into the
Quebrada de Humahuaca.
HUMAHUACA
Casa Vieja
Buenos Aires, at Salta. More regional dishes,
including a very substantial
locro.
Daily lunch & dinner.
El Portillo
Tucumán 69. This hotel restaurant serves
traditional food including llama meat, quinoa and Andean
potatoes in a rustic environment. Daily 7pm-midnight.
Mendoza and
San Juan
The vast midwestern provinces of
MENDOZA
and
SAN JUAN
are sparsely
populated, sun-fried playgrounds for
lovers of mountains and vineyards. The
highest peaks outside the Himalayas rise
to the west, capped by the formidable
Cerro Aconcagua
, whose icy volcanic
summit punctures the sky at nearly
ACCOMMODATION
The best budget accommodation is found in Tilcara and
Humahuaca, although campsites can be found in nearly
every town in the valley.
TILCARA
Ì
Malka
San Martín (at the top of the hill)
T
0388 495
5197,
W
malkahostel.com.ar. It's a strenuous uphill walk
to this hostel, which has comfortable
cabañas
for up to
six people - great value if travelling in a group -
as we
ll
as dorm
s and pri
vate rooms. HI discounts. Dorms
AR$70
,
doubles
AR$300
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