Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE DESERT
HeadingsouthfromAmbalavao,youknowyou'veleftthehighlandswhenavastplainswal-
lows the RN7. This mostly empty desert harbours one great national park, and a nearby sap-
phire boomtown. They make a perfect stop on the way to Tuléar.
Parc National de l'Isalo
Isalo is like a museum dedicated to the art of the desert canyon. Canyons full of yellow sa-
vannah grass, bone-drycanyons, sculpted buttes, white-washed canyons, vertical rockwalls,
and best of all, deep canyon floors with streams and lush vegetation, and pools for swim-
ming. All of this changes with the light, culminating in extraordinary sunsets beneath a big
sky. Take away the lemurs, the baobabs, and the Sakalava tombs, and you might be in the
American southwest. Add all this to easy access off the RN7, and you understand why this
is Madagascar's most visited park, even if it is not our top choice. At more than 80,000 hec-
tares, it's also a large park, so if you want to go off on your own there is plenty of room for
exploration, including week-long hikes. The park is served by the small town of Ranohira,
which contains the park office and a handful of hotels and restaurants, but don't stop there:
resorts extend all along the park's southern border, including some of the finest in the coun-
try, making this a great chance to indulge yourself.
Isalo can get very hot during the day. Bring sunscreen, a hat, and enough food and water
for your visit.
Park Fees & Guides
The
MNP Office
( 0331317258; 7am-5pm)isaninnocuousbuildingfacingthemain
intersection inthe centre ofRanohira. Youcan arrange amandatory guide anditinerary here;
a map of all the current routes is on display. Entry fees are Ar25,000/37,000/40,000/50,000
for1/2/3/4days.GuidefeesareAr20,000toAr30,000percircuit,dependingonwhetheryou
go by foot or car. Porters are Ar13,000 per day. There are many guides who speak English,
but some good ones are
Toussaint
( 032 43 831 88),
Albert
( 034 63 971 11),
Rolland
( 033 08 437 94) and
Parson
( 034 12 241 84). It is customary to tip the guide when
you are through; 10% is the norm. If you wish to take a car to certain trailheads, your guide
can arrange this.
PARC NATIONAL DE L'ISALO
Best time to visit
May-June or September-October
Key highlight
Piscine Naturelle
