Shopping - Tokyo - page 241

1-35-6 Asakusa, Taito-ku. & 03/3841-6613. Station: Asakusa (4 min.). 1 long block east of Naka-
mise Dori, on the corner of Yanagi Dori and Metoro Dori.
Blue & White American Amy Katoh has been the driving force behind this small but
unique 27-year-old shop specializing in Japanese modern and traditional crafts, includ-
ing textiles, yukata, porcelain, candles, picture frames, notebooks, fans, and more, mostly
in colors of indigo-dyed blue and white. Of note is the creative clothing made especially
for this shop, and the crafts designed by artists with disabilities. Open Monday to Satur-
day 10am to 6pm, Sunday and holidays 11am to 6pm. 2-9-2 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku.
& 03/3451-0537. Station: Azabu-Juban (exit 4, 3 min.) or Roppongi (exit 3, 12 min.).
S Fujiya Tenugui are cotton hand towels used since the Edo Period for everything
from drying off after bathing to headgear. In this small shop they're elevated to works of
art, designed by a father-and-son team and featuring more than 200 traditional motifs,
including Kabuki actors, festivals, masks, flowers, animals, and much more. Inexpensive
gifts, they can be fashioned into scarves, framed as pictures, or used in countless other
ways. Open Friday to Wednesday 10am to 6pm. 2-2-15 Asakusa, Taito-ku. & 03/3841-2283.
Station: Asakusa (4 min.). East of Nakamise Dori, beside Hyakusuke (see below).
Hashi Ginza Natsuno This shop is tiny, but so are the products it sells—chopsticks
and chopstick holders, in all designs and colors. There are even chopsticks for children.
The quality is high, so you can bet prices are high, too. Open Monday to Saturday 10am
to 8pm, Sunday and holidays 10am to 7pm. 5-4-2 178 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. & 03/3403-
6033. Station: Omotesando (3 min.). Off Omotesando Dori; opposite the Hanae Mori Building,
take the small side street (the one btw. McDonald's and Ito Hospital with a harajuku arch
across it); it's down this street on the right. Look for the huge chopsticks outside.
T Hyakusuke For traditional Japanese cosmetics (kesho hin), come to Hyakusuke,
a 200-year-old, family-owned shop. During the Edo Period, it did a brisk trade in teeth
blackener (white teeth were considered ugly), but today it offers rather mundane prod-
ucts, as well as such traditional treatments as kombu to funori (a seaweed hair treatment),
tsubaki (camellia) oil for healthy hair, and—perhaps most interesting— uguisu no hun,
nightingale droppings that are said to leave your skin soft and smooth. Simply mix it
with a little soap to wash your face. A purchase of ¥1,000 will give you about a month
of daily use. Makeup used by geisha and Kabuki actors is also sold here, attracting cus-
tomers in these traditional professions, but I'm partial to face paper, used on humid days
to blot away perspiration and grime. Open Wednesday to Monday from 11am to 5pm.
2-2-14 Asakusa, Taito-ku. & 03/3841-7058. Station: Asakusa (3 min.). Just east of Nakamise Dori;
walking toward Sensoji Temple, turn right after the last shop on Nakamise, pass the two Bud-
dha statues, and turn right again at Benten-do Temple; the shop is on your right, across from
the playground.
Japan Sword Coming here is like visiting a museum. Established more than 100
years ago, this is the best-known sword shop in Tokyo, with a knowledgeable staff and
an outstanding collection of fine swords, daggers, sword guards, fittings, and other sword
accessories, as well as antique samurai armor. The place also sells copies and souvenir
items of traditional swords at prices much lower than those of the very expensive historic
swords. Note that antique and modern swords require permission to export, which takes
about 2 weeks (the company can ship purchases to you), but you can take replicas with
you—just be sure to pack them in checked bags. Open Monday to Friday 9:30am to
6pm, Saturday 9:30am to 5pm. Closed holidays. 3-8-1 Toranomon, Minato-ku. & 03/3434-
4321. www.japansword.co.jp. Station: Toranomon (exit 2, 5 min.) or Kamiyacho (exit 3, 5 min.).

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