Shopping - Tokyo - page 240

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Muji This domestic chain is worth checking out for its plain yet well-designed prod-
ucts, many of them made from recycled materials at affordable prices. Futon, bed linens,
kitchen appliances, tableware, storage units, furniture (think rattan and unbleached
woods), clothing, cosmetics, and other practical goods are offered at more than 280 loca-
tions in Japan, but this is its head store. Open daily 10am to 9pm. 3 - 8-3 Marunouchi,
Chiyoda-ku. & 03/5208-8241. Station: Yurakucho (2 min.). Across from the Kotsu Kaikan Building
(location of the Tourist Information Center).
Three Minutes Happiness Bargain yen shops are all over Japan, but this is one of
my favorites. It carries tableware, household goods, office supplies, cosmetics, sunglasses,
clothing (including tabi socks, with separation for the big toe and used for thonged
footwear), and many other simple items, mostly in bright and happy colors like lime
green and sky blue. Let's just hope most of the products give more than 3 minutes of
happiness. You'll find branches of this shop in Ikebukuro's Tobu/Metropolitan Plaza and
Aqua City on Odaiba (see earlier). Open daily 11am to 9pm. 3-5 Udagawacho, Shibuya-
ku. & 03/5459-1851. Station: Shibuya (Hachiko exit, 5 min.). On the left side of Koen Dori.
Tokyu Hands Billing itself the “Creative Life Store,” Tokyu Hands, part of the Tokyu
chain, is a huge department store for the serious homeowner and hobbyist, with every-
thing from travel accessories, noren (doorway curtains), chopsticks, and kitchen knives,
to equipment and materials for do-it-yourselfers, including paper for shoji. If there's a
practical Japanese product you've decided you can't live without (lunchbox? bathroom
slippers? hanging laundry rack?), this is a good place to look. You'll also find Tokyu
Hands at 1-28-10 Higashi Ikebukuro beside the Sunshine City Building ( & 03/3980-
6111 ) and in the Takashimaya Shinjuku complex ( & 03/5361-3111 ). Open daily 10am
to 8:30pm. 12-18 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku. & 03/5489-5111. Station: Shibuya (Hachiko exit, 6
min.). Near the two Parco buildings.
JAPANESE CRAFTS & TRADITIONAL PRODUCTS
If you want to shop for traditional Japanese folk crafts in the right atmosphere, nothing
beats Nakamise Dori (station: Akasaka), a pedestrian lane leading to Sensoji Temple in
Asakusa. It's lined with stall after stall selling souvenirs galore, from wooden geta shoes
(traditional wooden sandals) and hairpins worn by geisha to T-shirts, fans, umbrellas, toy
swords, and dolls. Most stalls are open from 10am to 6pm; some close 1 day a week. The
side streets surrounding Nakamise Dori, including Demboin Dori and a covered pedes-
trian lane stretching from both sides of Nakamise Dori, are also good bets.
Another good place to search for traditional crafts is department stores, which usually
have sections devoted to ceramics, pottery, bambooware, flower-arranging accessories,
kimono, and fabrics.
Ando Opened in 1880, this two-story shop probably has Tokyo's largest selection of
Japanese cloisonné, including jewelry, vases, and plates, with both traditional and strik-
ingly modern designs. Open Monday to Friday 10am to 6:30pm; Saturday, Sunday and
holidays 10:30am to 6:30pm. 5-6-2 Ginza, Chuo-ku. & 03/3572-2261. Station: Ginza (exit A1,
1 min.). On Harumi Dori, btw. Chuo Dori and Sotobori Dori.
R Bengara Noren are the doorway curtains hanging in front of Japanese restau-
rants, public bathhouses, and shops, signaling that the establishment is open. Bengara
sells more than 400 different models of both traditional and modern noren of various
sizes and colors, including those bearing kanji (Chinese characters) or scenes from famous
woodblock prints. You can look through catalogs or have a noren custom-made with
your own name. Open daily 10am to 6pm; closed the third Thursday of every month.

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