In This Chapter
Picking up neckline stitches
Discovering a new way to set in sleeves
Creating crew necks and V-necks for the whole family
sweater that’s well fitting, comfortable to wear, and attractive to look at is what everyone wants. Some knitters are put off by the idea of knitting a whole sweater, but the truth is that most of the knitting is still just rectangles with a few triangles to create the neckline and sleeve shaping. With this chapter, you can create classically constructed sweaters from patterns that offer lots of flexibility. All of these are wardrobe basics that everyone can wear — and they never go out of style.
A V-neck T-shirt for women (with an option for a crew neck) has easy, everyday wearability.
The kid’s top offers short and long-sleeved versions, making it a terrific T-shirt for warm or cool weather. The same pattern makes a classic sweater for boys or girls when knit in superwash wool with a cable up the front.
A casual sweater that’s knit in a not-too-bulky yarn with rolled cuffs and collar (and the option of adding zest with broad stripes), is designed with men in mind, but it’s suitable for both sexes.
The quintessential manly sweater, which is knit in a finer gauged yarn with simple ribbed edging and a V-neck, is great for any man in your life; it offers an option for a crew neck, too.
My hope is that you’ll make these basic patterns your own. To help you do that, I offer lots of suggestions to vary the sweaters to keep them interesting and to allow you to return to the same pattern again and again as your skills improve and your tastes change. Use these patterns to come up with results that you — and those you knit for — will love.
V-Neck T-Shirt
I call this pattern a T-shirt, but what I mean is that it’s short-sleeved and has an easy fit. When knit in a cotton tape yarn, this women’s top (see Figure 13-1) definitely has that comfy T-shirt thing going on. But consider knitting it in a yarn with a bit of shimmer or sparkle; when paired with a skirt or slacks, it’s suitable for dressier occasions. This basic pattern is for a V-neck T-shirt. If you prefer to make a crew neck, see the later variation.
Figure 13-1:
An easygoing short-sleeved shirt for all occasions.
Materials and vital statistics
Yarn: Colinette Wigwam (100% cotton tape); 120 yards (130 meters) per 100 grams; 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10) skeins; color: Fruit Coulis
Needles: US 8 (5 mm) needles, or the size needed to match gauge; US 6 (4 mm) needles; US 6 (4 mm) circular needle, 16- or 24-inch length
Other materials: Two stitch markers or safety pins; 1 stitch holder for V-neck or 2 stitch holders for crew neck; yarn needle for finishing
Size: Women’s XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) or actual chest size of 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54) inches
• Finished chest circumference: 34 (38, 42, 46, 52, 56, 60) inches
• Finished length: 23 (23, 23, 24, 24, 25, 25) inches Figure 13-2 is a schematic of the finished dimensions
Gauge: 18 stitches and 23 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Figure 13-2:
The schematic of the finished V-neck
T-shirt.
This top is easy to wear and uncomplicated to knit. You knit the seed stitch border as you make the V-neck, so the neckline is done when the sweater’s done. Because the sleeves are knit from stitches you’ll pick up from the body, the finishing on this shirt involves only sewing the side and underarm seams.
Starting with the back
Cast on 75 (85, 95, 105, 115, 125, 135) sts with the larger needles. Switch to smaller needles and work seed stitch as follows: Row 1: *K1, p1, repeat from * to last st, k1. Repeat this row 5 more times for the border.
Switch to the larger needles and stockinette stitch (knit a row, purl a row) and work even until the back measures 21>2 (21>2, 21>2, 22>2, 22>2, 23K, 23>2) inches.
Shoulder shaping
Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Bind off 4 (5, 7, 7, 9, 10, 11) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
On the next row, begin working the center 41 (41, 41, 45, 45, 45, 45) sts in seed stitch to form the back neckline.
Bind off 4 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off remaining 41 (41, 41, 45, 45, 45, 45) sts.
Moving to the front
Cast on 75 (85, 95, 105, 115, 125, 135) sts with the larger needles. Work 6 rows in seed stitch as for back on smaller needles.
Switch to stockinette stitch and the larger needles, increasing 1 st in the first row. Work even until the front measures 13 (13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15) inches, ending with a WS row.
Neck shaping
Next row (RS): K35 (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65) sts, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, knit to end of row. This row establishes the seed stitch neckline border.
Next row (WS): P35 (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65) sts, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, purl to end of row.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 1 more time.
Now divide the sts and work each half of the neck separately.
Left neck
Next row (RS): K33 (38, 43, 48, 53, 58, 63) sts, k2tog, k1, p1, k1. Turn. (If you’re unfamiliar with k2tog, head to Chapter 6.) Place the remaining 38 (43, 48, 53, 58, 63, 68) sts on a stitch holder.
Next row (WS): K1, pi, kl, purl to end of row.
Next row (RS): K32 (37, 42, 47, 52, 57, 62) sts, k2tog, kl, pi, kl. Turn. Next row (WS): Kl, pi, kl, purl to end of row. Next row (RS): Knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, kl, pl, kl. Next row (WS): Kl, pl, kl, purl to end of row.
Repeat the previous 2 rows until l7 (22, 27, 30, 35, 40, 45) sts remain for left shoulder.
Work even until the front measures 2l>2 (2l>2, 2l>2, 22>2, 22>2, 23>2, 23>2) inches, ending with a WS row.
Left shoulder shaping
Next row (RS): Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, l0, ll) sts, knit to end of row. Next row (WS): Kl, pl, kl, purl to end of row.
Next row (RS): Bind off 4 (5, 7, 7, 9, l0, ll) sts, knit to last 2 sts, pl, kl. Next row (WS): Kl, pl, kl, purl to end of row.
Next row (RS): Bind off 4, (6, 7, 8, 9, l0, ll) sts, knit last 2 sts, pl, kl. Next row (WS): Kl, pl, kl, purl to end of row.
Next row (RS): Bind off remaining 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, l0, l2) sts. Right neck
Replace the held stitches on the needle with the RS facing. Join yarn at neck edge and kl, pl, kl, ssk, knit to end of row. (See Chapter 6 if you’re unfamiliar with ssk.)
Next row (WS): Purl to last 3 sts, kl, pl, kl.
Next row (RS): Kl, pl, kl, ssk, knit to end of row.
Repeat the previous 2 rows until l7 (22, 27, 30, 35, 40, 45) sts remain for right shoulder. Work even until this side measures 2l>2 (2l>2, 2l>2, 22>2, 22>2, 23K, 23>2) inches, ending with a RS row.
Right shoulder shaping
Next row (WS): Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, l0, ll) sts, purl to last 3 sts, kl, pl, kl. Next row (RS): Kl, pl, knit to end of row.
Next row (WS): Bind off 4 (5, 7, 7, 9, l0, ll) sts, purl to last 3 sts, kl, pl, kl. Next row (RS): Kl, pl, knit to end of row.
Next row (WS): Bind off 4 (6, 7, 8, 9, l0, ll) sts, purl to last 3 sts, kl, pl, kl.
Next row (RS): Kl, pl, knit to end of row.
Next row (WS): Bind off remaining 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, l0, l2) sts.
Making the sleeves
Sew together shoulder seams of front and back with mattress stitch (see the appendix for more details). Now work the sleeves from the top down.
Measure 7>2 (8, 8>2, 9, 9>2, 10, 10) inches down from shoulder seam along the side edge of the front and place a marker or safety pin. Repeat on the back so that you have 2 markers 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 20) inches apart.
Pick up and knit 67 (73, 77, 81, 85, 91, 91) sts between the 2 markers with the larger needles. (See Chapter 10 for pointers on picking up stitches along a straight edge.)
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Knit.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat the previous 4 rows 9 more times. There are 47 (53, 57, 61, 65, 71, 71) sts. Switch to the smaller needles and work 6 rows in seed stitch. Bind off remaining sts.
Make the second sleeve the same as the first.
Finishing your T-shirt
Block the shirt lightly to the measurements given in Figure 13-2. Using mattress stitch, sew the sides and underarms of the shirt together. Weave in all ends. See the appendix for advice on blocking and seaming.
Variation: Crew neck T-shirt with garter stitch edging
If you favor a crew neck T-shirt over a V-neck, the change is easy to make. This variation uses garter stitch at the edges instead of seed stitch, and the collar edging is worked at the end. The materials, size, and gauge are the same here as they are in the V-neck T-shirt pattern, except that the crew neck is 1 inch narrower than the V-neck for all sizes. In addition, you do need two stitch markers, a crochet hook, and a new skill: picking up neckline stitches. If you’re unfamiliar with this skill, I explain what you need to know later in this chapter.
Back
Cast on 75 (85, 95, 105, 115, 125, 135) sts with the larger needles. Knit 6 rows to form garter stitch edging.
Switch to stockinette stitch and work even until the back measures 21>2 (21K, 21>2, 22>2, 22K, 23K, 23>2) inches.
Shoulder shaping: Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Bind off 4 (5, 7, 7, 9, l0, ll) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off 4 (6, 7, 8, 9, l0, ll) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, l0, l2) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Put remaining 4l (4l, 4l, 45, 45, 45, 45) sts onto a holder for the back of the neck.
Front
Cast on 75 (85, 95, l05, ll5, l25, l35) sts with the larger needles. Knit 6 rows to form garter stitch edging.
Switch to stockinette stitch and work even until the front measures 20 (20, 20, 2l, 2l, 22, 22) inches, or 3 inches less than the desired length, ending with a WS row.
Neck shaping: Next row (RS): Knit across 22 (27, 32, 35, 40, 45, 50) sts and slip these sts to a holder for the left shoulder, knit across center 3l (3l, 3l, 35, 35, 35, 35) sts, and then slip them to a holder for the collar, knit to end of row. There are 22 (27, 32, 35, 40, 45, 50) sts on the needle.
You now work each side of the neck separately.
Right neck: Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Kl, ssk, knit to end of row.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 4 more times. There are l7 (22, 27, 30, 35, 40, 45) sts. The front should measure the same as the back to the beginning of the shoulder shaping.
Right shoulder shaping: Next row (WS): Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, l0, ll) sts, purl to end of row.
Next row (RS): Knit.
Next row (WS): Bind off 4 (5, 7, 7, 9, l0, ll) sts, purl to end of row.
Next row (RS): Knit.
Next row (WS): Bind off 4 (6, 7, 8, 9, l0, ll) sts, purl to end of row.
Next row (RS): Knit.
Next row (WS): Bind off remaining 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, l0, l2) sts.
Left neck: Replace the held stitches for the left front on the needle with the WS facing. Rejoin yarn at neck edge, and purl to end of row.
Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, kl. Next row (WS): Purl.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 more times ending with a purl row. There are l7 (22, 27, 30, 35,
40, 45) sts.
Left shoulder shaping: Next row (RS): Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, l0, ll) sts, knit to end of row.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Bind off 4 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts, knit to end of row.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Bind off 4 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts, knit to end of row.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Bind off remaining 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12) sts. Sleeves
Work the sleeves the same as in the V-neck T-shirt pattern, but work the last 6 rows in garter stitch (knit all rows) instead of seed stitch.
Collar
The collar is knit in garter stitch in the round (head to Chapter 11 to find out more about knitting in the round). If you need guidance on picking up neckline stitches, check out the later section “New skill: Picking up neckline stitches.”
Attach the yarn at the right shoulder. Using the smaller sized 16- or 24-inch length circular needle, with the RS facing out, knit the 41 (41, 41, 45, 45, 45, 45) sts from the back neck holder, pick up and knit 15 sts from the left side of the front neck, knit the 31 (31, 31, 35, 35, 35, 35) sts from the front neck holder, and then pick up and knit 15 sts along the right side of the front neck. There are 102 (102, 102, 110, 110, 110, 110) sts. Place a marker and join in the round.
To knit garter stitch in the round, you knit a round and then purl a round — your pick up round counts as your first knit round.
Purl 1 round.
Knit 1 round.
Repeat the previous 2 rounds 2 more times, and then bind off loosely.
Finishing
Use the same finishing techniques as described in the basic V-neck pattern.
Kid’s Top
This pattern is for a T-shirt — and so much more! In the beautiful cotton tape yarn recommended for this pattern, this top is great for warmer weather or for an easygoing layer for those in-between days. (Check out the top in Figure 13-3.) Substitute a kid-friendly wool blend and add the optional cable and you can create a great sweater for any youngster. To make your top short-sleeved, see the variations that follow.
Stockinette stitch, by nature, rolls on the edges and knitting it tightly makes a firmer, tidier roll. This pattern takes advantage of stockinette stitch to create rolled edges on the hems, sleeves, and neck. Allow the pieces to roll naturally and take measurements with the edges rolled.
Figure 13-3:
A kid’s favorite hand-knit top.
New skill: Picking up neckline stitches
The skill of picking up neckline stitches along a curve comes up in most sweaters, including the men’s sweaters later in this chapter. (To find out how to pick up stitches along straight edges, check out Chapter l0.) Some knitters say that they hate this part of finishing. I don’t — I actually like it a lot. Picking up a neckline properly is satisfying and it means that you’re very close to actually wearing your sweater — and you’re l00 percent authorized to go buy more yarn.
To pick up neckline stitches, you need your working yarn, smaller circular needles, and a crochet hook no bigger than your knitting needles (an E, F, or G hook will do nicely here). A crochet hook, you say? Yes! I like to use a crochet hook to bring a loop of yarn through the fabric and make a new stitch. Then I slide it to my knitting needle. Even though I didn’t knit anything exactly, it still counts as pick up and knit.
You also need decent light and room enough to work. This project is a bit like one of those old-fashioned pastry recipes that begins with “Choose a clear, dry day.” Don’t frustrate yourself by attempting something new when you’re tired or distracted. Wait until morning when you have good light and a bit of peace.
Measuring and marking
When you’re working along a horizontal edge, you pick up every stitch. That’s easy enough. When you’re working along a vertical edge, you pick up about 3 stitches for every 4 rows (because that’s roughly the ratio of stitches to rows that you get with a stockinette stitch fabric). Also not rocket science. But along a curve you don’t have anything nearly so tidy. Instead, you have a ziggurat-like series of bound-off and decreased stitches. Here’s what you do when you hit a curve:
1. When you get to the place where you need to pick up and knit, pause for a moment, put down the needles, pick up your tape measure, and measure along the curved line where you need to pick up stitches.
On this kid’s sweater, you should have about 3 inches worth of knitted fabric on each side of the front neck.
2. Place removable stitch markers (or safety pins or bits of string) at regular intervals around the spots where you need to pick up stitches (say every inch or every 2 inches).
3. Figure out your gauge per inch so you know how many stitches to pick up between each set of markers.
The gauge for this pattern, for example, is 18 stitches for every 4 inches of stockinette stitch, or 4>2 stitches for 1 inch. If you have 3 spaces between the markers that are each 1 inch long, then 4>2 stitches are picked up in each space for this pattern. Because the space is just short of 3 inches and we’re stuck with a fraction (4>2 x 3 = 13>2), pick up 13 stitches in this space. (See Chapter 2 for more information about gauge.)
If you’re using a different stitch pattern for your collar, such as ribbing, you need to know your gauge per inch over that stitch pattern on the correctly sized needles, and you must pick up that number of stitches per inch.
Measuring and marking is worthwhile on almost any knitting project. Often a pattern will say something like “Pick up and knit 70 stitches around the neck.” If your neck is 20 inches around, you can figure out that you need to pick up 7 stitches over every 2 inches. This way, you don’t end up picking up 40 stitches on the right side and 30 on the left (trust me, that won’t look cool). Plus, remember that knitters don’t all knit exactly the same. And so you may have done something different from the knitter who wrote the pattern, and maybe 76 stitches is really a better number of stitches for your sweater. All I’m saying is that sometimes the number given works perfectly — and sometimes it works poorly. If you measure out your intervals and pick up evenly in each one, you’ll end up with a happy result. Just remember that you may need to fudge a little to get, say, a multiple of 4 for 2 x 2 ribbing or whatever stitch pattern you’re working with. Patterns may lie, but your sweater speaks the truth.
Picking up the right stitches
Which stitches should you pick up? Here are some guidelines:
Choose whole stitches (they’ll likely be further in from the edge than you thought). You want to be down below any ugliness at the edge because anything that’s above where you pick up stitches magically disappears under your collar.
Choose stitches that make a nice graceful curve. The highlighted stitches in Figure 13-4 show which stitches you want to pick up.
Choose small stitches. If you come across a big stitch somewhere, skip over it. By choosing a smaller space to put your needle, you’re minimizing holes.
Figure 13-4:
The correct stitches to pick up on a neckline.
Follow these steps to pick up neckline stitches:
1. With the right side of the sweater facing you and the yarn in back (on the wrong side of the sweater), stick the crochet hook into the center of your chosen stitch, as shown in Figure 13-5.
Grab the yarn with the hook and pull the loop through to the front of the work. Slip this stitch to your right-hand needle. This action counts as both picking up and knitting — even though you’re using a crochet hook.
Figure 13-5:
A crochet hook makes it easy to pick up and knit.
2. Repeat Step 1 until you’ve picked up all the necessary stitches.
3. When you’ve picked up your stitches, take a moment to even out the tension of the stitches by distributing any slack among the stitches.
Picking up stitches, especially around a curve, can mean that your stitches get pulled and tugged. Before you knit the next round, take a minute to even out the tension of the stitches by pulling any slack from stitch to stitch. Look at the body of the sweater, too. If it looks like you have a hole, often you can even it out by moving the slack into the neighboring stitches.
If you’re satisfied with how your sweater looks, carry on with the knitting. But remember that do-overs are allowed. Just as carpenters say “Measure twice, cut once,” “Pick up twice, knit once” should be the watchword of knitters.
Materials and vital statistics
‘ Yarn: Colinette Wigwam (l00% cotton tape); l20 yards (l30 meters) per l00 grams; 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) skeins; color: Earth
Needles: US 8 (5 mm) needles, or the size needed to match gauge; US 6 (4 mm) needles; US 6 (4 mm) circular needle, l6-inch length
‘ Other materials: Two stitch holders; 2 stitch markers; yarn needle; US G (4 mm) crochet hook; 2 removable stitch markers or safety pins
‘ Size: Children’s 2 (4, 6, 8, l0) or actual chest size of 2l (23, 25, 26, 28) inches
• Finished chest circumference: 23 (25, 27, 28, 30) inches
• Finished length: l4 (l5, l6, l8, 20) inches
Figure l3-6 is a schematic of the finished dimensions (with an optional cable and short sleeves; see the later variation)
‘ Gauge: l8 stitches and 23 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Figure 13-6:
The schematic of the kid’s shirt.
In this pattern, you knit the front and back, sew them together at the shoulders, and then pick up and knit the sleeves from the top down. Then you pick up and knit the neck to create an easygoing rolled neckline. Finishing is easy because you only have a single seam to sew on each side. If you want to make short sleeves or add a horseshoe cable up the front, see the variation sections.
Starting with the back
Cast on 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) sts with smaller needles.
Work back and forth in stockinette stitch (knit a row, purl a row) for 1 inch to create a rolled edge.
Switch to larger needles and continue in stockinette stitch until the back measures 13 (14, 15, 17, 19) inches, with the edge rolled, ending with a WS row.
Neck and shoulder shaping
Bind off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Slip remaining 26 (28, 30, 32, 32) sts onto a holder for back of the neck.
Moving to the front
Cast on 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) sts with smaller needles.
Work back and forth in stockinette stitch for 1 inch to create a rolled edge.
Switch to larger needles and continue in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 11 (12, 13, 15, 17) inches, with edges rolled, ending with a WS row.
Neck shaping
Knit 15 (16, 17, 18, 20) sts and slip them to a holder for the left shoulder, knit across center 22 (24, 26, 28, 28) sts, and then slip them onto a second holder for the front neckline, knit remaining 15 (16, 17, 18, 20) sts.
Now work each side of the neck separately.
Right neck
Next row (WS): Purl to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. (If you need help with p2tog — purling 2 stitches together — look to Chapter 6.)
Next row (RS): Knit.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 1 more time. There are 13 (14, 15, 16, 18) sts.
Work even until your piece measures 2 inches from the beginning of neck shaping, or until it’s the same length as the back to the beginning of shoulder shaping, ending with a RS row.
Right shoulder shaping
Next row (WS): Bind off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts, purl to end of row.
Next row (RS): Knit.
Next row (WS): Bind off 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) sts, purl to end of row.
Next row (RS): Knit.
Next row (WS): Bind off remaining 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts.
Left neck
Replace the held stitches of the left shoulder on the needle with the RS facing. Rejoin yarn at side edge.
Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog tbl, k1. (If you’re unfamiliar with k2tog tbl, head to Chapter 12.)
Next row (WS): Purl.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 1 more time. There are 13 (14, 15, 16, 18) sts.
Work even until your piece measures 2 inches from the beginning of neck shaping, or until it’s the same length as the back to the beginning of shoulder shaping, ending with a WS row.
Left shoulder shaping
Next row (RS): Bind off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts, knit to end of row. Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Bind off 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) sts, knit to end of row.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Bind off remaining 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts.
Making the sleeves
Sew together shoulder seams of front and back with mattress stitch (see the appendix for more info). Place removable markers or safety pins 4K (5, 5K, 6, 7) inches down from the shoulder seam along 1 side edge of the front and back so that you have 2 markers 9 (10, 11, 12, 14) inches apart.
With larger needles, and a crochet hook if desired, pick up and knit 41 (45, 49, 55, 63) sts between the 2 markers. See Chapter 10 for the details on working this maneuver along straight edges.
Rows 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5: Work 5 rows in stockinette stitch, beginning with a purl row. Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat these 6 rows 8 (9, 10, 11, 13) more times. There are 23 (25, 27, 31, 35) sts.
Continue in stockinette stitch without decreasing until the sleeve measures 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) inches.
Switch to smaller needles and work 6 rows in stockinette stitch.
Bind off.
Make the second sleeve the same as the first.
Knitting the collar
Attach the yarn at the right shoulder, and with the smaller-sized 16-inch circular needle, knit the 26 (28, 30, 32, 32) sts from the back neck holder, pick up and knit 13 sts along the left side of the front neck, knit the 22 (24, 26, 28, 28) sts from the front neck holder, pick up 13 sts along the right side of the front neck. There are 74 (78, 82, 86, 86) sts. (See the earlier section “New skill: Picking up neckline stitches” for more on picking up neckline stitches.)
Place a marker, join in the round, and work in stockinette stitch (knitting all rounds) for 1 inch to create a rolled collar.
Bind off all sts loosely using larger needles. Weave in any loose ends.
You never want a collar to be too tight to go over someone’s head, especially if that someone is a kid. Nothing will cause a child to run screaming from your handknits faster than a neck that’s too tight (well, except maybe itchy yarn). Binding off with larger needles (2 or 3 sizes up) will give the neck plenty of stretch.
Finishing your sweater
Block your sweater to the measurements given in Figure 13-7. Sew the side seams and sleeve seams using mattress stitch. (I cover blocking and seaming in the appendix.)
Variation: Short sleeves
Make this top into your child’s favorite easygoing tee by making short sleeves.
The yarn and materials for this variation are all the same as in the basic pattern. But, if you want to change the yarn, you can use any comfy, child-friendly aran weight yarn. Your row gauge isn’t significant here as long as you like the fabric of your swatch and you’re able to comfortably knit l8 stitches per 4 inches.
Make the front, back, and collar the same as described in the basic pattern.
To make the sleeves: Sew together the shoulder seams of the front and back. Place removable markers or safety pins 4>2 (5, 5>2, 6, 7) inches down from the shoulder seam on the front and back so that you have 2 markers 9 (l0, ll, l2, l4) inches apart.
With larger needles (and a crochet hook), pick up and knit 4l (45, 49, 55, 63) sts between the 2 markers. (See Chapter l0 to find out more about picking up stitches along a straight edge.)
Work 3 rows in stockinette stitch, beginning with a purl row. Next row (RS): Kl, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, kl.
Repeat the previous 4 rows l (l, 3, 3, 4) more time(s). There are 37 (4l, 4l, 47, 53) sts. Continue in stockinette stitch without decreasing until your sleeve measures 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) inches.
Switch to smaller needles and work 6 rows in stockinette stitch to form a rolled edge.
Bind off.
Make the second sleeve the same as the first.
Variation: Cables
Adding a single horseshoe cable up the front of this sweater is a great way to jazz it up. Even though the horseshoe cable looks complex, it’s really just a four-stitch left cable and a four-stitch right cable that are worked right next to one another. Make the back and sleeves the same as the basic pattern described earlier, with long or short sleeves. You can find a detailed photo of the horseshoe cable and more information on cabling in Chapter 6. For this variation, you need the same materials as the basic pattern, plus 2 stitch markers and a cable needle.
Front
With smaller needles, cast on l8 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts, place marker, cast on l6 sts, place marker, and then cast on l8 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts. You have 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) sts, with the center l6 sts marked for an eight-stitch cable with 4 reverse stockinette sts on either side.
Row l (RS): Knit to first marker, slip marker, p4, k8, p4, slip marker, knit to end of row. Row 2 (WS): Purl to first marker, slip marker, k4, p8, k4, slip marker, purl to end of row. Rows 3 and 4: Repeat Rows l and 2.
Row 5 (RS): Knit to first marker, slip marker, p4, sl 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work, k2, k2 from cable needle, p4, slip marker, knit to end of row.
Row 6 (WS): Purl to first marker, slip marker, k4, p8, k4, slip marker, purl to end of row.
Switch to larger needles and repeat Rows 1-6 until your piece measures 11 (12, 13, 15, 17) inches, with edges rolled, ending with a WS row.
Neck shaping: Knit 15 (16, 17, 18, 20) sts and slip them to a holder for the left shoulder, work across center 22 (24, 26, 28, 28) sts, maintaining cable pattern, and then slip them to a holder for the front neck, knit remaining 15 (16, 17, 18, 20) sts.
Work the remaining neck and shoulder shaping the same as in the basic pattern, starting with right neck.
Cottar
Pick up the stitches for the collar and knit it as described in the basic pattern, but maintain the cable pattern over the 16 stitches between the markers until the collar is complete.
Men’s Rollneck Pullover
I think of the pullover in Figure 13-7 as the perfect men’s weekend sweater. It has simple lines and a slightly rugged look. It’s casual and comfortable like a favorite sweatshirt, but never sloppy. Knit it in his favorite colors or skip the striping altogether if you (or he!) would prefer. See the later variations for more thoughts on colors.
Figure 13-7:
A casual rollneck sweater for men.
New skill: Setting in steeves in a new Way
Sleeves, or more specifically the tops of sleeves, are tricky business in knitting. You can shape sleeve caps in several ways. The simplest way has a straight edge at the top of the sleeve, which makes it easy to knit and easy to put together. This sleeve cap shape is called a drop shoulder because the top of the sweater is as wide as the chest and therefore extends beyond the shoulder and down the arm. The drop shoulder is a great choice for a T-shirt or a sweatshirt, but it doesn’t fit the body as well as a sleeve that has some shape at the armhole, which is usually called a set-in sleeve. Setting in the sleeve means that the shoulder of the sweater sits somewhere close to your actual shoulder.
To make a more body-conscious fit, first you shape the armhole on the front and back of the sweater, which isn’t very complicated. You simply bind off a few stitches, decrease gradually for a few rows, and then you’re done. The only problem with set-in sleeves is that then you have to make a sleeve cap that fits right into the curve you’ve made at the armhole. You’re matching a convex curve and a concave curve, plus the knitting on the sleeve comes in at a different angle than the knitting on the body — and that takes a fair amount of math and know-how. And while I love the Pythagorean theorem, I realize that you may not.
Consider for a moment the architecture of a sleeve cap: It looks a lot like a mountain. Looking at Figure l3-8, you can see a flat part at the bottom on each side — the plain before the start of the slope. You always have exactly the same number of stitches here as the initial bind-off for the armhole because these two parts come together to create the underarm. From there, you have a gradual slope up to the top of the sleeve cap where it levels off, forming the top of the slope — the summit of the sleeve cap mountain, if you will. The summit of a sleeve cap is typically somewhere between 2 and 6 inches across for adults.
Figure 13-8:
A set-in sleeve cap looks like a mountain.
You can knit a set-in sleeve cap from the bottom up, which is the traditional method (I use it in the two women’s pullovers in Chapter l4). But this semi-detached, top-down method isn’t any more difficult, and the result is nearly foolproof. Have some faith as you walk through the steps. If nothing else, at least try it once before you disagree.
The sleeve you’re about to knit is actually knit backwards. That is, you knit it from the top down. You start at the summit, and then you increase to create the gradual slope. Finally, you cast on the final number of stitches on each side for the underarm. From there, it’s just what you’d expect: regular gradual decreases to the wrist.
The beauty of this semi-detached sleeve is that it doesn’t really matter how you knit the armhole on the sweater. You don’t have to do any math. You just have a little conversation with your sweater as you go along, and when the cap fits into the armhole, you stop. Another advantage of this method is that it allows you to try the sweater on and see if you want to make your sleeves shorter or longer than the pattern recommends.
To knit this set-in sleeve, follow these steps:
1. Sew the front and back of the sweater together at the shoulders.
2. Measure down the prescribed amount on each side of the shoulder seam and place a stitch marker.
In this pattern, you measure down 3 inches on each side, which gives you a summit measurement of 6 inches.
3. Pick up and knit your gauge per inch times 6 between the markers.
For this sweater, that’s 22 stitches because 3>4 stitches per inch times 6 inches is about 22. See Chapter l0 for more information on the pick up and knit technique.
4. Purl on the first row and on all following wrong-side rows.
5. On the next row, and the following right-side rows, increase 1 stitch at each edge.
6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until the sleeve cap fits into the armhole.
To find out if your sleeve cap fits into the armhole, lay your sweater flat on the table so that neither piece is stretched out of shape. Verify that the slope of your sleeve fits into the armhole to the point of the initial armhole decreases, by matching up the two sides, or if you prefer, by measuring each with a measuring tape. If it does, continue to the next step; if it doesn’t, take out a few rows or continue repeating the 2 sleeve cap rows until it does. Don’t worry if this changes your stitch count.
Figure 13-9 shows what the sleeve cap should look like when you’re ready to move on.
7. At the beginning of the next 2 rows, cast on the stitches needed to match the initial underarm bind-off.
If you’re experimenting with this technique in other patterns, you can find the number you need in the first lines in the armhole shaping section. These directions will say something like “Bind off 7 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.”
8. Continue knitting the sleeve from the underarm to wrist.
Figure 13-9:
Lay down your sweater to match a semidetached sleeve to its armhole.
Materials and Vital statistics
Yarn: Cascade Pastaza (50% llama, 50% wool); 132 yards (122 meters) per 50 grams
• Main color (MC): 026 Grey; 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) skeins
• Contrasting color 1 (CC1): 065 Maroon; 2 (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins
• Contrasting color 2 (CC2): 077 Mustard; 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) skein
Needles: US 9 (5.5 mm) needles, or the size needed to match gauge; US 7 (4.5 mm) needles; US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needle, 16- or 24-inch length
Other materials: Two stitch holders; 2 removable stitch markers or safety pins; crochet hook; yarn needle
Size: Men’s S (M, L, 1X, 2X) to fit actual chest size of 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) inches
• Finished chest circumference: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) inches
• Finished length: 26 (27, 28, 29, 30) inches
Figure l3-l0 is the schematic of the finished dimensions
Gauge: l5 stitches and 20 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles
The back and front of this sweater are worked separately and then joined at the shoulders. From there, you pick up and knit the sleeves and neck. This means that the finishing on this sweater is straightforward. See my advice on picking colors or making this sweater for women in the variation sections that follows the basic pattern.
Figure 13-10:
The schematic of the finished rollneck pullover.
Starting with the back
With larger needles and CC2, cast on 74 (82, 90, 98, l06) sts.
Switch to smaller needles and work 6 rows in stockinette stitch (knit a row, purl a row) with CC2 to form a rolled edge. Don’t cut CC2.
Switch to larger needles, join CCl, and work 2 rows in CCl in stockinette stitch.
Don’t weave in more ends than you have to! When you’re working a two-row stripe, you can simply carry the unused color loosely up the edge of the work. This shortcut saves you yarn — and the hassle of weaving in extra ends. (See Chapter 8 for more info on changing colors.)
Switch back to CC2 and work 2 rows. Cut CC2, leaving a 6-inch tail. Continue in stockinette stitch using CCl for 6 inches, ending with a purl row. Join MC and work 2 rows.
Work 2 rows with CCl. Cut CCl.
Continue in stockinette stitch using MC until sweater measures l6 (l6K, l7, l7>2, l8) inches, ending with a purl row.
Don’t unroll the hem; let it roll naturally and measure from the bottom of the roll.
Armhole shaping
Bind off 3 (3, 4, 5, 6) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row (RS): Kl, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, kl. (If you’re unfamiliar with k2tog, head to Chapter 6.)
Next row (WS): Purl.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 3 (5, 6, 8, l0) more times. There are 60 (64, 68, 70, 72) sts.
Work even until the sweater measures 9 (9>2, l0, l0>2, ll) inches from the beginning of the armhole shaping, ending with a purl row.
Shoulder shaping
Bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off 5 (6, 7, 7, 7) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Slip remaining 30 sts to a holder to pick up later for the collar.
Moving to the front
Follow the directions for the back through the armhole shaping. There are 60 (64, 68,
70, 72) sts.
Work even until your piece measures 23 (24, 25, 26, 27) inches, ending with a purl row.
Neck shaping
Next row (RS): K20 (22, 24, 25, 26) and slip these sts to a holder for the left shoulder, knit center 20 sts (for all sizes), and then put them on a holder for the front neck, k20
(22, 24, 25, 26).
Now work each side of the neck separately.
Right neck
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Kl, ssk, knit to end of row.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 4 more times. There are l5 (l7, l9, 20, 2l) sts.
Work even until this side measures 9 (9K, l0, l0K, ll) inches from the beginning of the armhole shaping, ending with a knit row.
Right shoulder shaping
Next row (WS): Bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sts, purl to end of row. Next and following RS rows: Knit.
Next row (WS): Bind off 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts, purl to end of row.
Next row (RS): Knit.
Next row: Bind off remaining 5 (6, 7, 7, 7) sts.
Left neck
Replace the held stitches of the left shoulder on the needle with the WS facing. Rejoin yarn at neck edge.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 4 more times. There are 15 (17, 19, 20, 21) sts.
Work even until this side measures 9 (9>2, 10, 10>2, 11) inches from the beginning of the armhole shaping, ending with a purl row.
Left shoulder shaping
Next row (RS): Bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sts, knit to end of row.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Bind off 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts, knit to end of row.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Bind off remaining 5 (6, 7, 7, 7) sts.
Making the steeves
Sew the front and back together at shoulder seams with mattress stitch (see the appendix for more details). Measure 3 inches down from the shoulder seam on the front and back and place markers or safety pins so that you have 2 markers that are 6 inches apart.
With larger needles and MC and with RS facing you, pick up and knit 22 sts between the 2 markers.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): K1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1.
The abbreviation m1 stands for “make 1.” For more details, see Chapter 14.
Repeat these 2 rows 12 (15, 16, 18, 21) more times. There are 48 (54, 56, 60, 66) sts.
Your sleeve cap should reach the underarm at this point. (See the earlier section “New skill: Setting in sleeves in a new way” for guidance.)
Purl 1 more row. Cast on 3 (3, 4, 5, 6) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. There are
54 (60, 64, 70, 78) sts.
Work 4 more rows in stockinette stitch, and then begin decreasing as follows:
Next row (Decrease Row) (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Note: Read ahead! You’ll switch colors before you complete the upcoming decrease sequence.
Repeat the decrease row every 6th row ll (l3, 9, 7, 7) more times and then every 4th row 0 (0, 5, 9, l2) times. There are 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) sts.
If pattern directions for your size tell you to do something 0 times, you don’t do it at all.
Continue decreasing as set, and when the sleeve measures 9 (9>2, l0>2, ll, ll>2) inches from the underarm, switch to CCl.
When decreasing is complete, you’ll have 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) sts. Work even until sleeve measures l7 (l7K, l8>2, l9, l9>2) inches from the underarm.
Add CC2 and work 2 rows. Don’t cut CC2.
Work 2 rows with CCl. Cut CCl.
Switch to CC2 and smaller needles. Continue in stockinette stitch for 6 rows. Your sleeve should measure l8 (l8>2, l9>2, 20, 20>2) inches with cuff rolled.
Bind off loosely, using larger needles.
Work the second sleeve the same way.
Knitting the collar
If you haven’t knit a collar before, check out the section “New skill: Picking up neckline stitches” earlier in this chapter.
Using the circular needle and MC, with the RS facing out, start at the right shoulder and knit the 30 sts from the back neck holder, pick up and knit l2 sts along the left side of the front neck, knit the 20 sts from the front neck holder, and then pick up and knit l2 sts along the right side of the front neck. There are 74 sts on the needle.
Place a marker, join in the round, and begin working in kl, pl rib as follows:
Round l: *Kl, pl, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round for l inch, and then work 8 rounds in stockinette stitch (knit all rounds). Bind off loosely with larger needles.
Cast-on and bound-off edges don’t stretch like the rest of your knitting, so binding off with larger needles helps keep the neckband from being too tight.
Finishing your sweater
Block the sweater to the measurements given in Figure l3-l0. Sew the sleeve cap into the armhole, matching the cast-on stitches at the bottom of the sleeve cap to the bound-off edges of the underarm shaping. Sew the sleeve and body seams. Weave in all ends. See the appendix for more information about blocking and seaming.
Variation: Showing your man’s true colors
Some men appreciate some zingy color. Others appreciate colors like taupe. Know who you’re knitting for and then knit him something he’ll actually wear. I don’t believe in the sweater curse — that fable that says if you knit a man a sweater too early in a relationship you’re dooming the relationship to fail. But, I do know that I would curse
if I poured my love into a sweater that he never wore. When in doubt, ask! Here are some options:
The almost-vanilla option: Choose a classic guy color for the sweater (for most men that’s grey, navy, or taupe) and work only the rolled edges — that is, the first inch of the sweater and the last inch of the sleeves and collar — in a contrasting color. Because these bands will roll, you’ll have just a little pop of a stronger color.
The spumoni option: If you’re knitting for someone with bolder tastes you can go for this option. Choose a print yarn or a self-striping yarn and go for it.
The sorbet option: If your man lives in a warmer climate or finds a wooly sweater too hot or too itchy, choose a cotton or silk blend yarn instead. A yarn that lists its gauge as 15 stitches per 4 inches is what you’re looking for.
Manly Sweater
This pattern helps you create a men’s V-neck sweater with classic detailing that will never go out of style (take a look at Figure 13-11). This sweater is knit with a relatively fine-gauged yarn so that it can be worn comfortably indoors and out.
Figure 13-11:
A classic V-neck sweater for men.
New skill: Binding off in rib
When you bind off in knit, you create a little chain of stitches that looks a lot like a crochet chain on the side facing you. When you bind off in purl, you put this chain on the opposite side. Binding off in rib puts this chain in the middle — on the edge — where it’s inconspicuous. Usually when you’re working ribbing at the edge of a garment, you want to bind the stitches off in rib so that the bound-off edge matches the knitting.
To bind off in rib, work the first 2 stitches as they appear, and then slip the first stitch worked over the most recently completed stitch, just as you do when you bind off in knit (see the appendix for more on binding off in knit). To bind off in 1 x 1 rib, follow these steps:
1. Knit the first stitch and purl the second stitch.
There are 2 stitches on the right needle.
2. With the yarn still at the front of the work in the purl position, slip the rightmost stitch (the knit stitch) over the most recently worked stitch (the purl stitch) and off the needle.
3. Bring the yarn to the back of the work and knit the third stitch.
4. Slip the rightmost stitch over the stitch just worked.
5. Continue binding off in this manner, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches, until all the stitches are bound off.
Materials and vital statistics
‘ Yarn: Rowan Felted Tweed (50% merino wool, 25% alpaca, 25% viscose); l89 yards (l75 meters) per 50 grams; 8 (9, l0, ll, l2) skeins; color: Ginger
‘ Needles: US 5 (3.75 mm) needles, or the size needed to match gauge; US 3 (3.25 mm) needles; US 3 (3.25 mm) circular needle, l6- or 24-inch length
Other materials: Two stitch markers; yarn needle; a crochet hook; 2 removable stitch markers or safety pins
‘ Size: Men’s S (M, L, lX, 2X) to fit chest size of 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) inches
• Finished chest circumference: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) inches
• Finished length: 26 (27, 28, 29, 30) inches
Figure l3-l2 is a schematic of the finished dimensions
Gauge: 24 stitches and 32 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles
Figure 13-12:
The schematic of the men’s sweater.
This classic men’s sweater is created with a slightly unusual technique. You knit the back and front, and then pick up stitches for the sleeve at the shoulder and create a set-in sleeve cap from the top down. Refer to the earlier section “New skill: Setting in sleeves in a new way” if you need help with this technique. After that, you pick up and knit the V-neck collar. If a crew neck is more his style, knit the variation that follows the basic pattern.
Starting with the back
Cast on 120 (132, 144, 156, 168) sts on smaller needles. Work in knit 1, purl 1 rib as follows: Row 1 (RS): K1, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, k1. Row 2 (WS): P1, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, p1. Repeat these 2 rows until the ribbing measures 2 inches.
Switch to stockinette stitch (knit a row, purl a row) and larger needles. Continue in stockinette stitch until the back measures 16 (16>2, 17, 17>2, 18) inches, ending with a purl row.
Armhole shaping
Bind off 4 (5, 6, 8, 9) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (Flip to Chapter 6 to learn about ssk and k2tog.)
Next row (WS): Purl.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 7 (9, 11, 13, 16) more times. There are 96 (102, 108, 112, 116) sts.
Continue in stockinette stitch until the armhole measures 9 (9>2, 10, 10>2, 11) inches and the back measures 25 (26, 27, 28, 29) inches, ending with a purl row, and then begin shoulder shaping.
Shoulder shaping
Bind off 6 (6, 7, 8, 8) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off remaining 48 sts.
Moving to the front
Work the front the same as the back through armhole shaping, until the sweater measures 18 (19, 20, 21, 22) inches.
Note that you’ll continue working the armhole decreases as you shape the V-neck. Because you’ll be working on the neck and armhole shaping simultaneously, read through all the directions before you start knitting.
When the front measures l8 (l9, 20, 2l, 22) inches and the armhole measures 2 (2K, 3, 3>2, 4) inches, end with a purl row and begin shaping the neck. Count the stitches on the needle and place a marker in the center, evenly dividing the stitches.
Next row (RS): Knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, kl, remove the marker and slip all sts just worked to a holder for the left shoulder; kl, ssk, knit to end of row.
Now work each side of the neck separately, continuing with the armhole decreases as you shape the neckline.
Right neck
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Kl, ssk, knit to end of row.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 22 more times. There are 24 (27, 30, 32, 34) sts.
Work even until this side measures 9 (9>2, l0, l0>2, ll) inches from the beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a RS row, and then shape the shoulder.
Right shoulder shaping
Row l (WS): Bind off 6 (6, 7, 8, 8) sts, purl to end of row.
Row 2 and following RS rows: Knit.
Row 3 (WS): Bind off 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts, purl to end of row. Row 5 (WS): Bind off 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) sts, purl to end of row. Row 7 (WS): Bind off remaining 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) sts.
Left neck
Replace the held stitches for the left shoulder on the needle with the WS facing. Join yarn at neck edge and purl to end of row. Don’t forget to complete the armhole decreases as you shape the neckline!
Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, kl. Next row (WS): Purl.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 22 more times. There are 24 (27, 30, 32, 34) sts.
Work even until this side measures 9 (9>2, l0, l0>2, ll) inches from the beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a WS row, and then shape the shoulder.
Left shoulder shaping
Row l (RS): Bind off 6 (6, 7, 8, 8) sts, knit to end of row.
Row 2 and following WS rows: Purl.
Row 3 (RS): Bind off 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts, knit to end of row. Row 5 (RS): Bind off 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) sts, knit to end of row. Row 7 (RS): Bind off remaining 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) sts.
Making the sleeves
The sleeves on this sweater are knit semi-detached from the top down. See the earlier section “New skill: Setting in sleeves in a new way” for a detailed explanation on how to do this.
Sew the front and back together at the shoulder seams with mattress stitch (see the appendix for more details). Place a safety pin or removable marker 3 inches down from the shoulder seam along 1 armhole edge of both the front and back so that you have 2 markers that are 6 inches apart. Using larger needles, pick up and knit 36 sts between the 2 markers.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): K1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) more times. There are 78 (82, 86, 90, 94) sts.
Now is the time to see if your sleeve cap fits in the armhole. Lay your sweater down flat and verify that the slope of your sleeve fits into the armhole to the point of the initial decreases. If it does, continue following the pattern. If it doesn’t, rip back or continue repeating the 2 sleeve cap rows until it does — don’t worry if this changes your stitch count. When your sleeve cap is the right depth, end with a purl row and shape the underarm as follows:
Cast on 4 (5, 6, 8, 9) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. There are 86 (92, 98, 106, 112) sts.
Work 6 more rows in stockinette stitch, and then begin decreasing as follows: Decrease Row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat the decrease row every 6th row 17 (19, 21, 19, 19) more times, and then every
4th row 0 (0, 0, 4, 6) more times. There are 50 (52, 54, 58, 60) sts.
If pattern directions for your size tell you to do something 0 times, you don’t do it at all.
Work even until sleeve measures 16 (16>2, 17>2, 18, 18>2) inches, or 2 inches shorter than your desired sleeve length, ending with a purl row.
Switch to smaller needles and work in rib as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K1 *k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 2 (WS): P1, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows until the cuff measures 2 inches. Bind off loosely in rib, as I explain earlier in this chapter.
Work the second sleeve the same way.
Knitting the cottar
If you need help picking up stitches for the collar, see the earlier section “New skill: Picking up neckline stitches.”
With the smaller circular needle, beginning at the right shoulder, pick up and knit 47 sts along the back of the neck, 48 sts along the left neck to center of the V, place marker, pick up and knit 48 sts along right neck. There are l43 sts. Join and begin working in the round.
Next round: *Kl, pl, repeat from * to 3 sts before marker, kl, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, *kl, pl, repeat from * to end of round.
Next round: *Kl, pl, repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, pl, *kl, pl, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat these 2 rounds until ribbing measures l inch or the desired depth. Bind off loosely in rib.
Finishing your sweater
Block the sweater to the measurements given in Figure l3-l2. Sew the sleeve cap into the armhole, matching the cast-on stitches at the bottom of the sleeve cap to the bound-off edges of the underarm shaping. Sew the sleeve and body seams. Weave in all ends. See the appendix for more information on seaming and blocking.
Variation: Crafting a crew neck
If you prefer a crew neck to a V-neck, work the back and sleeves the same as written in the basic pattern, and work the front the same through the section on armhole shaping. The materials, size, and gauge are the same here as they are in the V-neck sweater pattern.
Front
When the front measures 23 (24, 25, 26, 27) inches, end with a WS row and begin shaping the neck.
Neck shaping: Next row (RS): K36 (39, 42, 44, 46) and slip these sts to a holder for the left side of the neck, bind off center 24 sts, knit to end of row.
Now work each side of the neck separately.
Right neck: Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Kl, ssk, knit to end of row.
Repeat the previous 2 rows ll more times. There are 24 (27, 30, 32, 34) sts.
Work even until this side measures 9 (9>2, l0, l0>2, ll) inches from the beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a RS row, and then shape the shoulder.
Right shoulder shaping: Row l (WS): Bind off 6 (6, 7, 8, 8) sts, purl to end of row.
Row 2 and following RS rows: Knit.
Row 3 (WS): Bind off 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts, purl to end of row.
Row 5 (WS): Bind off 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) sts, purl to end of row. Row 7 (WS): Bind off remaining 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) sts.
Left neck: Replace the held stitches on the needle with the WS facing. Join yarn at neck edge and purl to end of row.
Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, kl. Next row (WS): Purl.
Repeat the previous 2 rows ll more times. There are 24 (27, 30, 32, 34) sts.
Work even until this side measures 9 (9>2, l0, l0>2, ll) inches from the beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a WS row, and then shape the shoulder.
Left shoulder: Row l (RS): Bind off 6 (6, 7, 8, 8) sts, knit to end of row.
Row 2 and following WS rows: Purl.
Row 3 (RS): Bind off 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts, knit to end of row. Row 5 (RS): Bind off 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) sts, knit to end of row. Row 7 (RS): Bind off remaining 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) sts.
Collar
You pick up stitches around the neck and complete the ribbed collar knitting in the round on the circular needle. If you need help picking up stitches for the collar, see the earlier section “New skill: Picking up neckline stitches.”
With the RS facing out, start at the right shoulder and knit the 48 sts from the back neck holder, pick up and knit 27 sts along the left side of the front neck, knit the 24 sts from the front neck holder, and then pick up and knit 27 sts along the right side of the front neck. You should have l26 sts, but if your neckline is slightly smaller or larger, any even number is fine.
Next round: *Kl, pl, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round until ribbing measures l inch, or the desired depth. Bind off loosely in rib.
Finishing
Block the sweater to the measurements given in Figure l3-l2. Sew the sleeve caps into the armholes, matching the cast-on stitches at the bottom of the sleeve cap to the bound-off edges of the underarm shaping. Sew the sleeve and body seams. Weave in all ends. See the appendix for more information on seaming and blocking.
