In This Chapter
Knitting raglan sweaters in one piece from the top down Making shapely pullovers for women. Adding color and complexity with Fair Isle, mosaics, and lace.Earlier chapters focus on some pretty basic shapes, but the patterns presented in this final group move beyond the basic rectangle, triangle, or cylinder. While the shapes are more complex, the knitting isn’t difficult. But it may demand a little more attention. I firmly believe that even the most complex knitting is only a series of small steps, each of which, on its own, isn’t difficult to perform.
In this chapter, I provide two patterns for top-down cardigans — these are great fun to knit because they’re worked in one piece and you can try them on as you go. Plus, both of these patterns offer lots of room for your own improvisations. Here are the two raglan cardigan patterns I introduce you to:
A lightning fast knit with a zipper closure, which makes for a great outer layer on chilly days.
A more refined cardigan with self-facing button bands and ribs on the lower portion.
I also offer two patterns for women’s pullovers:
The first features a scooped neck, waist shaping, and a wonderful Fair Isle band. The second features a V-neck, lace accents, and a cropped shape.
You’ll notice in examining these last two patterns that they’re knit at the same gauge, which means you can easily mix and match between them to choose the features and shaping that you like. Both provide a truly flattering and feminine fit and offer plenty of options for making them your own, whether you want to experiment with mosaic or Fair Isle patterning or dainty lace.
Bulky Zipped Cardigan
Most cardigans are knit in pieces (two fronts, a back, and the sleeves) and then they’re sewn together. This process can be frustrating for some knitters because the pieces have to match up along certain critical seam lines. And, of course, the seams have to be sewn, which isn’t every knitter’s idea of fun.
Knitting from the top down (as you do in this pattern) is different, however, because the whole thing is worked in one piece. This means that all the pieces of the sweater “match” and you have to do very little finishing. What I like best about top-down raglan knitting, though, is that this technique allows you to try on the sweater at any point and see if you like the fit. If
the chest is too small or the sleeve is too long, a quick test fitting tells you so that you can correct the error for a custom fit.
The cardigan in Figure 14-1 features raglan sleeves and a zip-up front as well as seed stitch borders and a collar. It’s easy to wear and can easily take the place of a jacket in spring and fall. I’ve chosen a vibrant pink for mine, but this super-bulky yarn comes in all kinds of great colors.
Figure 14-1:
A zipped cardigan chases chills.
New skill: Trying the make 1 increase
The increase I use in this raglan sweater is called make 1, which is usually abbreviated ml. Make 1 refers generically to any increase that’s worked between stitches. This is in contrast to increases like kfb (see Chapter 11) that are worked in a stitch.
To work an m1, follow these steps:
1. Knit to the spot where you want the increase.
2. Stick the left needle from back to front under the horizontal thread between stitches from back to front as shown in Figure 14-2.
3. Knit the stitch through the front loop as shown in the figure.
Figure 14-2:
Lift the horizontal thread between stitches and knit it to make one extra stitch.
If knitting an ml feels awkward, you’re doing it right! You’re twisting the stitch to prevent a hole from forming and making an inconspicuous increase.
If you want, you can skip the twist on all the ml increases in this project. Doing so will result in paired eyelets along the raglan lines like mini yarn overs — a nice decorative feature (see Chapter 6 for more about yarn overs). Whether you choose to twist or not, be sure to work all the ml increases the same.
To work an untwisted ml, follow these steps as shown in Figure 14-3:
1. Stick the left needle under the horizontal bar thread between stitches from front to back.
2. Knit the stitch normally through the front loop.
Figure 14-3:
Working an untwisted ml.
Materials and vital statistics
Yarn: Cascade Lana Grande (100% wool); 87 yards (80 meters) per 100 grams; 6 (6, 7, 8, 9) skeins; color: 6033 Magenta
Needles: US 15 (10 mm) circular needles, 29-inch length or longer; US 15 (10 mm) circular needles, 16-inch length, or double-pointed needles
Other materials: Ten large stitch markers or scraps of yarn tied in loops (2 should be different from the rest); 2 stitch holders; spare circular needles or lengths of scrap yarn; yarn needle to weave in ends; 1 20-inch separating zipper; straight pins; matching thread; sewing needle
Size: Women’s XS (S, M, L, 1X) or actual chest size of 30 (34, 38, 42, 46) inches
• Finished chest circumference: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) inches
• Finished length: 23 (24, 24, 25, 25) inches See Figure 14-4 for detailed measurements
Gauge: 10 stitches and 12 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Once you get going, this cardigan is smooth sailing, but there’s a lot going on in the first few rows. On the setup row, you place a lot of markers. By doing so, you’re accomplishing three things:
Designating which stitches are the right front, right sleeve, back, left sleeve, and left front
Making it easy to count how many stitches are on the right and left fronts with the 2 A markers (the 2 markers that are different from the rest)
Marking off your 4 increase stitches with 1 of the 8 B markers on either side of each one
Figure 14-4:
A schematic of the bulky zipped cardigan.
From there, you increase regularly at the markers forming the raglan lines between the sleeves and body sections. When the body (the back plus the two fronts) is the correct size, you move the sleeve stitches to holders, join the fronts and back, and complete the body in one piece. Then you go back and knit the sleeves from the underarm to the wrist. Finally, you pick up and knit the collar and finish by sewing in your zipper.
Starting with the body
The stitches you cast on will form the neck, covering the two sides of the front, the sleeves, and the back. Using the long circular needle, cast on 32 sts. Don’t join; the cardigan is worked back and forth in rows.
Setup Row (WS): P2, place marker A, place marker B, p1, place marker B, p4, place marker B, p1, place marker B, p16, place marker B, p1, place marker B, p4, place marker B, p1, place marker B, place marker A, p2.
Row 1 (RS): Kfb, knit to marker A, slip marker A, knit to marker B (there are no sts to knit between markers A and B in Row 1), m1, slip marker B, k1, slip marker B, m1, knit to marker B, m1, slip marker B, k1, slip marker B, m1, knit to marker B, m1, slip marker B, k1, slip marker B, m1, knit to marker B, m1, slip marker B, k1, slip marker B, m1, knit to marker A (there are no sts to knit between markers A and B in Row 1), slip marker A, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. There are 42 sts.
“Kfb” stands for “knit into the front and back of the stitch.” See Chapter 11 for more information.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Repeat these 2 rows once more. There are 4 sts outside the A marker on each side of the work and 52 sts on the needle.
You now add the final front sts and begin seed stitch bands on the front.
Row 5 (RS): Cast on 5 sts at the beginning of the row, (k1, p1) 3 times, k3, remove the A marker and, increasing with m1 as set before and after each set of B markers, knit to the end of the row. There are 65 sts.
Row 6 (WS): Cast on 5 sts at the beginning of the row, (k1, p1) 3 times, p3, remove A marker, purl to last 6 sts, (p1, k1) 3 times. There are 70 sts.
Row 7 (RS): (K1, p1) 3 times, knit across, increasing as set before and after each set of B markers, knit to last 6 sts, (p1, k1) 3 times. You have increased 8 sts.
Repeat the last 2 rows 7 (10, 12, 15, 17) more times, ending with a purl row. There are 38 (44, 48, 54, 58) sts between the markers for the back and 134 (158, 174, 198, 214) sts on the needle.
Now’s the time to try your cardigan on! Slip some of the stitches onto a spare circular needle or onto scrap yarn and check the fit. If it’s too loose, rip back a few rows and try it on again. If it’s too tight, keep knitting. Remember that the body of the sweater will be about 3 inches wider than it is now because you’ll be adding a few stitches at each underarm.
On the next row, you move the sleeve stitches to holders and continue on the body only, as follows:
Next row (RS): (K1, p1) 3 times, knit to first marker, remove marker, k1, remove marker; slip the next 26 (32, 36, 42, 46) sts to a spare circular needle or length of scrap yarn for the left sleeve; cast on 4 sts, remove next marker, k1, remove marker, knit across 38 (44, 48, 54, 58) back sts, remove marker, k1, remove marker; slip the next 26 (32, 36, 42, 46) sleeve sts to a spare circular needle or length of scrap yarn for the right sleeve; cast on 4 sts, remove next marker, k1, remove marker, knit to last 6 sts, (p1, k1) 3 times. There are 90 (102, 110, 122, 130) sts on the needle.
Continue working in stockinette stitch, maintaining the first and last 6 sts in seed stitch, until the sweater measures 20 (21, 21, 22, 22) inches, or 3 inches shorter than your desired finished length. Decrease 1 st (k2tog) at the center back when working the last row so that you have an odd number for the seed stitch pattern.
Next row: (K1, p1) to last st, k1.
Repeat this row for 3 inches. Bind off.
Moving to the sleeves
Transfer the 26 (32, 36, 42, 46) sts from the first sleeve to a 16-inch circular needle or double-pointed needles.
Attach the yarn and knit across all the sts. Cast on 4 sts, placing a marker in the middle of these 4 new sts. This marker will now be the beginning of the round. Join and begin knitting in the round. There are 30 (36, 40, 46, 50) sts.
On the 8th (6th, 6th, 4th, 4th) round, work the decrease round as follows:
Decrease Round: K2tog tbl, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. (To find out more about k2tog tbl, see Chapter 12. For more about k2tog, see Chapter 6.)
Repeat the decrease round every 8th (6th, 6th, 4th, 4th) round, 3 (5, 6, 8, 9) more times to 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) sts. Work even until the sleeve measures 14 inches, or 3 inches shorter than your desired length. Decrease 1 st with k2tog in the last round in preparation for seed stitch pattern.
Switch to seed stitch for cuff as follows:
Round 1: (K1, p1) to last st, k1.
Round 2: (P1, k1) to last st, p1.
Repeat these 2 rounds until cuff measures 3 inches. Bind off. Make a second sleeve the same way.
Knitting the cottar
Using a US 15 circular needle of any length and working with the RS of the sweater facing you, begin at the right front neckline edge and pick up and knit 47 sts around the neck, ending at the left front neckline edge of the left front seed stitch band. Begin working in seed stitch as follows:
Row 1: (K1, p1) to last st, k1.
Work this row 13 more times, or until collar is the desired depth. Bind off.
Finishing your cardigan
Weave in any loose ends and block the sweater as desired (see the appendix for blocking tips). Then you’re ready to add the zipper to your sweater.
Follow these steps to sew in the zipper (and see Figure 14-5):
1. Working from the right side (public side) of the sweater with the zipper closed, pin the zipper in place so that the edges of the knit fabric just cover the teeth of the zipper and meet in the center.
You may wish to try on the cardigan to make sure the zipper placement is correct.
2. Baste the zipper in place with the needle and thread and then remove the pins.
In case you aren’t a seamstress, basting is when you sew big, temporary stitches to hold something in place. Try the sweater on again at this point.
3. Turn the sweater to the wrong side and stitch the zipper to the knitted fabric along the outside edge of the zipper tape on both the left and right sides.
4. Turn the sweater back to the right side and sew the zipper in place about % inch in from the edge of the sweater.
Figure 14-5:
Attaching a zipper.
Half-Ribbed Raglan Cardigan
Many raglan sweater patterns that are knit from the top down begin with a neckline that’s sized to your actual neck measurement, which is somewhere between 13 and 16 inches. Considering you add a collar after that, you’re dooming yourself to an uncomfortable and unflattering sweater right from the start!
My solution is to simply start with a larger neck measurement — say 20 or 22 inches. This solution gets rid of all that too-close-to-the-neck knitting and reduces the boxiness of the whole sweater.
Figure 14-6 shows the half-ribbed raglan cardigan. The top of the body and sleeves are worked in stockinette stitch. After you divide the sleeves from the body, you begin with the wide ribbed pattern. The ribs create visual interest and a nice clean line. The addition of smooth self-facing buttonbands and a collar make it perfect for the office or casual days about town.
Figure 14-6:
A half-ribbed raglan cardigan has an easy-fitting neck.
While the lower portion of the body and sleeves are worked in a rib pattern, you can just as easily work small cables instead — see the variation at the end of the pattern.
New skill: Fashioning self-facing buttonbands
As you know, a cardigan opens and closes. That’s what’s so great about it: It’s easy to take off and put on, and you can wear it completely opened or closed or halfway in between, so you’re never too hot or too cold.
The first cardigan in this chapter features a zipper, which is a great choice for easygoing outerwear to keep out the winter chill. But this cardigan, knit in a cotton and silk blend, is the sort of sweater you might wear all day: walking in the morning, working in your air-conditioned office, and perhaps enjoying a sunny lunch outdoors. Nice buttons dress it up and allow you to fasten it however you like. But because buttons (and buttonholes) need a place to be, you’ve got to make buttonbands.
Buttonbands are a debated topic in knitting because you can make them in lots of different ways. And, unfortunately, they’re one of those things that can go wrong and make your sweater look handmade in precisely the way that you don’t want it to. Buttonbands can be problematic because often they’re knit on lengthwise after the front is done. If a knitter picks up too few stitches or binds off too tightly, the button-band is too short and cinches the sweater along the front. If she doesn’t measure her gauge over rib accurately or picks up too many stitches, the buttonband is too long and looks like a bad ruffle.
To avoid these frustrating situations, I like a pattern that creates a tidy buttonband at the same time as the rest of the sweater. For this sweater, I chose a simple stockinette self-faced buttonband. Self-facing means that you essentially line the buttonbands by knitting extra stitches on each front edge separated by a slipped stitch from the rest of the sweater. The slipped stitch creates a nice smooth fold as the extra fabric you’ve knit is turned under to the wrong side and sewn in place. This sort of buttonband is also extra sturdy because of the double layer, so it stands up to lots of wear. These button-bands are finished when the sweater’s finished — and they always turn out just right.
Here’s what you have to do to make your self-facing buttonband:
1. Determine the desired width of your buttonband.
For example, this cardigan has a buttonband that measures 1 inch.
2. Because the facing needs to be as wide as the buttonband, when you cast on for each side of the front of your sweater, cast on an additional inch worth of stitches plus 1.
For example, the gauge for this sweater is 4 stitches per inch, so I cast on 5 extra stitches on each side. Be sure that the extra stitches are placed on the inside edge where the sweater will close.
3. Knit the buttonband.
On right-side rows: Knit the inch of stitches, slip 1, and then carry on with the pattern as described.
On wrong-side rows: Purl all the extra stitches.
4. Knit the buttonhole band by making two buttonholes, one for the right side of the buttonband and one for the facing.
For example, in this sweater pattern, the buttonhole row is worked like this: K2, yo, k2tog, sl 1, k2tog, yo, k2. The (yo, k2tog) creates the buttonhole in the facing and the (k2tog, yo) creates the buttonhole on the right side of the buttonhole band.
5. Continue making the facing and the buttonbands as you knit the cardigan. Bind off the extra stitches when you bind off the buttonband.
6. When the sweater is done, turn the facings under, folding along the columns of slipped stitches, and then sew them in place on the wrong side.
New skill: Decreasing in rib
In this raglan cardigan pattern, you decrease within the rib pattern on the sleeves. This decreasing technique is slightly more complicated than decreasing over stockinette stitch because you need to keep your ribs lined up.
There are a couple of things to keep in mind when decreasing in rib. First, always work the stitches as they appear — you want to knit the knits and purl the purls. This takes care of the part between the decreases and helps keep your ribs in line.
But what about the decreases themselves? Because you’re eating into a pattern that’s already established, the first 2 stitches (and the last 2 stitches) may sometimes be 2 knit stitches, other times they’ll be 2 purl stitches, and sometimes there will be 1 knit and 1 purl. What are you supposed to do?
Ask yourself, “If there were only 1 stitch here, what would it be?” You want to make the 2 stitches into what they should be in the next round. In other words, if it should be a knit stitch, then you should knit the 2 stitches together. If it should be a purl stitch, then you should purl them together. To butcher the mnemonic device you learned in second grade, “When two stitches go walking, the inner one (not the edge one) does the talking.”
For this raglan cardigan pattern specifically, here are the guidelines:
2 knits = k2tog 2 purls = p2tog
1 knit, 1 purl at the beginning of a round = p2tog 1 knit, 1 purl at the end of a round = k2tog 1 purl, 1 knit at the beginning of a round = k2tog 1 purl, 1 knit at the end of a round = p2tog
Head to Chapter 6 for more about k2tog and p2tog.
Materials and vital statistics
Yarn: Rowan Summer Tweed (70% silk, 30% cotton); 117 yards (108 meters) per 50 grams; 9 (9, 10, 11, 12, 12) skeins; color: Toast
Needles: US 8 (5 mm) circular needle, 32-inch length or longer, or the size needed to match gauge after blocking; US 8 (5 mm) circular needle, 16-inch length, or double-pointed needles; US 9 (5.5 mm) needles and US 10 (6 mm) needles for collar
Other materials: Six stitch markers (2 of these markers should be different from the others); 2 spare circular needles or lengths of scrap yarn; yarn needle; 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 6) 34-inch buttons
Size: Women’s S (M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) or actual chest size of 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54) inches
• Finished chest circumference (with sweater buttoned): 37 (4134, 45, 48, 5234, 57) inches
• Finished length: 24 (24, 25, 25, 26, 26)
See Figure 14-7 for a detailed schematic
Gauge: 16 stitches and 24 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Figure 14-7:
The schematic of the half-ribbed raglan cardigan.
This cardigan is worked from the top down, so you cast on for the two fronts, the sleeves, and the back all at once and work downward in stockinette stitch from the neck. After the sleeves and body are wide enough to fit you, you place the sleeve stitches on holders, join the fronts and back, and continue working down in a wide rib until the sweater is the right length. From there you go back to the sleeve stitches, working them in rib down to the wrist. Finally, you pick up and knit the collar.
Note that unlike the bulky zipped cardigan, this cardigan doesn’t use m1 increases worked on either side of marked “increase stitches” but rather uses kfb increases on either side of the single markers.
Starting with the body
Using the long circular needle, cast on 54 (54, 54, 58, 58, 58) sts.
Row 1 (WS): P1, place marker A, p1, place marker B, p10, place marker B, p30 (30, 30, 34, 34, 34), place marker B, p10, place marker B, p1, place marker A, p1.
Row 2 (RS): K1, m1, slip marker A, kfb, slip marker B, kfb, knit to 1 st before next marker, kfb, slip marker B, kfb, knit to 1 st before next marker, kfb, slip marker B, kfb, knit to 1 st before next marker, kfb, slip marker B, kfb, slip marker A, m1, k1. There are
64 (64, 64, 68, 68, 68) sts.
“Kfb” stands for “knit into the front and back of the stitch.” See Chapter 11 for more information. Also, you can read more about “m1,” which stands for “make 1 increase,” in the earlier section “New skill: Trying the make 1 increase.”
Row 3 (WS): Purl.
Row 4 (RS): K1, m1, knit to marker A, slip marker A, knit to 1 st before marker B, kfb, slip marker B, kfb, knit to 1 st before next marker, kfb, slip marker B, kfb, knit to 1 st before next marker, kfb, slip marker B, kfb, knit to 1 st before next marker, kfb, slip marker B, kfb, knit to marker A, slip marker A, knit to last st, m1, k1. You have increased 10 sts.
Repeat the last 2 rows 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6) more times, until there are 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9) sts outside the A marker on each side. There are 124 (124, 124, 138, 138, 138) sts.
You now cast on the remaining sts for the front neck and, at the same time, the self-facing buttonbands.
Next row (WS): Cast on 13 (13, 13, 14, 14, 14) sts at the beginning of the row, and then purl across all sts.
Next row (RS): Cast on 13 (13, 13, 14, 14, 14) sts at the beginning of the row, k4, sl 1, knit to marker A and remove it, knit to last st before marker B, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to last st before marker B, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to last st before marker B, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to last st before marker B, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker A and remove it, knit to last 5 sts, sl 1, k4. There are 158 (158, 158, 174, 174, 174) sts.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Row 1 (RS): The first and last 9 sts comprise the buttonbands. K4, sl 1, k4, *knit to 1 st before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, repeat from * 3 more times; knit to last 9 sts; k4, sl 1, k4. You have increased 8 sts.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Buttonhole Row (RS): K2, yo, k2tog, sl 1, k2tog, yo, k2, *knit to 1 st before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, repeat from * 3 more times; knit to last 9 sts; k4, sl 1, k4. There are 174 (174, 174, 190, 190, 190) sts.
The abbreviation “yo” stands for “yarn over”; head to Chapter 6 for more about this increase.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 10 (14, 18, 19, 23, 27) more times, working the buttonhole row every 4 inches. There are 70 (78, 86, 94, 102, 110) sts between the 2 back markers and 254 (286, 318, 342, 374, 406) sts on the needle.
Now is a good time for a test fitting. Slip some of the stitches onto a spare circular needle or length of scrap yarn so that the stitches aren’t bunched up and you can make an accurate assessment. If you hold the first 2 markers together at one underarm and the last 2 markers together at the other underarm, you’ll get an idea of the fit. The best way to do this is to have a friend hold the markers together while you look in the mirror. Remember that the buttonbands will be folded under and that you’ll add 2 inches to the overall width when you join for the underarm. If your cardigan is too wide, decide how many rows to unravel for a perfect fit, mark that spot with a safety pin, and rip back. Or, if the cardigan is still too tight, knit another few rows and try again.
Divide the sleeve stitches from the body and put them on holders as follows:
Next row (RS): K4, sl 1, knit to first marker; slip sleeve sts (the sts between the first and second markers) to a holder or length of scrap yarn; to join the front and back, cast on 4 sts for underarm, and then knit the 70 (78, 86, 94, 102, 110) back sts; slip the second set of sleeve sts to a holder or length of scrap yarn, cast on 4 sts for the second underarm, and then knit to the last 5 sts, sl 1, k4. There are 162 (178, 194, 210, 226, 242) sts on the needle and 50 (58, 66, 70, 78, 86) sts on each sleeve holder.
Next row (WS): Purl.
In order for the rib pattern to work out evenly, you need to decrease a couple of stitches for some sizes.
If you’ve altered your sweater for a custom fit and have a different number of stitches on the needle, you need to do a bit of math at this point. Follow these steps:
1. Count the number of stitches on the needle and write that number here:_
2. Subtract 18 for the buttonbands:_- 18 =_
3. Subtract 2:_- 2 =_
4. Divide by 6:_^6 =_
If, in Step 4, you come up with a whole number, you don’t need to increase or decrease; follow the pattern as written. But if you come up with a fraction, such as 34.33, round down to the nearest whole number (in this case, 34) and follow these steps:
1. Multiply the whole number by 6:_x 6 =_
2. Add 2:_+ 2 =_
3. Add 18 for the buttonbands:_+ 18 =_
The result of Step 3 is the number of stitches that you need to have on the needle. On the next row, decrease evenly across the row to get to this number.
Next row (RS): K4, sl 1, k4, decrease 4 (2, 0, 4, 2, 0) sts evenly across the row, end k4, sl 1, k4. There are 158 (176, 194, 206, 224, 242) sts.
If the pattern says to do something 0 times, don’t do it at all.
Next row (WS): Purl.
From now on, you work the body back and forth without any increasing or decreasing. Continue working the first and last 9 sts as the buttonbands and continue making buttonholes every 4 inches as set.
Next row (RS): K4, sl 1, k4, *p2, k4, repeat from * to last 11 sts, p2, k4, sl 1, k4. Next row (WS): P9, *k2, p4, repeat from * to last 11 sts, k2, p9.
Repeat the previous 2 rows until your sweater measures 24 (24, 25, 25, 26, 26) inches from shoulder, or your desired length.
Now it’s time to try on your sweater to see if you like the length. If it’s too short, continue in the rib pattern as set until you like the length. If it’s too long, rip it back to the right length. When you’re happy with the length, bind off loosely.
Moving to the sleeves
To make the sleeves, you can use double-pointed needles rather than a single short circular needle.
Slip the held sts for one sleeve to the 16-inch circular needle. Rejoin yarn and pick up and knit 4 sts from the cast-on underarm sts, and then knit across the 50 (58, 66, 70, 78, 86) sleeve sts. There are now 54 (62, 70, 74, 82, 90) sts on the needle. Join in the round, k2 (to center of underarm sts) and place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round.
Knit 4 rounds.
Begin ribbing as follows: K2 (0, 4, 0, 1, 2), p2 *k4, p2, repeat from * to last 2 (0, 4, 0, 1, 2) sts, knit to end.
Next round (Decrease Round): Work first 2 sts together, p2 (0, 1, 0, 1, 2) *k4, p2, repeat from * to last 8 (6, 7, 6, 7, 8) sts, k4, p2 (0, 1, 0, 1, 2), work last 2 sts together.
When I say “work 2 stitches together,” knit or purl them together depending on which sort of stitches you’re looking at. See the earlier section “New skill: Decreasing in rib” for more info.
Work 2 sts together at the beginning and end of the round every 10th (8th, 6th, 6th, 4th, 4th) round 7 (10, 12, 14, 18, 19) more times, maintaining rib pattern. There are 38
(40, 44, 44, 44, 50) sts.
Continue in rib pattern as set until your sleeve measures 17 (17, 17, 18, 18, 18) inches from the underarm, or your desired length. Remember, you can try it on any time and see what length is right for you!
Make a second sleeve the same as the first.
Crafting the collar
Because this polo collar folds over, you want to pick up stitches from the inside (the wrong side) of the sweater. Doing so hides any untidiness of picking up stitches under the collar and keeps the visible side smooth.
When a pattern says “the left side” or “the left armhole” which one does it mean? It means that when you’re wearing it, that will be the one on the left. It may help you to imagine you’re trying it on if you’re still flummoxed.
With the WS facing you, start at the center of the buttonband on the left side and, with the longer circular needle, pick up and knit 6 sts before the neck shaping starts, 10 (10, 10, 14, 14, 14) sts along the left front neckline, pick up and knit the 54 (54, 54, 58, 58, 58) cast-on sts, 10 (10, 10, 14, 14, 14) sts along the right front neckline, and 6 sts along the horizontal edge of the right front neck, ending at the center of the buttonband. There are 86 (86, 86, 98, 98, 98) sts. (Head to Chapter 13 for details on picking up neckline stitches.)
Row 1: K2, *k4, p2, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k6. Row 2: K2, *p4, k2, repeat from * to last 6 sts, p4, k2.
It’s nice to have a polo collar that gradually increases so that the collar can fold over and lie gracefully around your neck. One way to do this is to increase a bit as you go. But with a rib pattern this technique can be fiddly and more complicated than it needs to be. My solution is to switch to larger- and larger-gauged needles as you go so that the outside edge of the collar is larger and has more drape (but the pattern remains uninterrupted).
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until your collar measures 2 inches. Switch to needles that are one size larger than the ones you used to knit the sweater and continue in rib pattern for 2 more inches. Then move up one more needle size (to a needle that’s two sizes larger than the one you used for the body of the sweater) and continue in rib until your collar measures 5 inches. Bind off loosely.
Finishing your cardigan
Fold the buttonbands over to the inside of the sweater, using the column of slipped stitches as your fold line. Use a yarn needle to sew the edge of the buttonband to the inside of the sweater. Be sure to keep your buttonholes lined up!
Weave in any loose ends and block your sweater to the measurements given in Figure 14-7. See the appendix for blocking advice. Sew on buttons opposite the buttonholes.
Variation: Using the perfect buttons
You’ve put a lot of effort into making your sweater, so be sure to put some effort into choosing the perfect buttons. Buttons can really make or break a cardigan. My advice on buttons is to wait until the sweater is done to choose them. Doing so assures you that you’ve chosen the proper size to fit into the buttonholes that you’ve created — and it’s a heck of a lot easier to find buttons to fit your buttonholes than it is to make buttonholes that fit your buttons! Plus, the button that looks great next to your yarn in its on-the-skein form may not actually be the button that suits your finished sweater best.
There are millions of beautiful buttons out there. And your buttons don’t all have to be the same — choose a variety of buttons of the same color or shape to add zest to something a little ho-hum. And don’t forget that vintage stores or thrift shops are great places to look for unusual buttons.
Women’s Scoop-Neck Pullover
Turned under hems, waist shaping, and a scooped neck combine to give you the attractive and flattering top in Figure 14-8. Add in Fair Isle detailing at the hem and cuffs and you have a handknit that’s sure to turn heads. (I give you the full scoop on Fair Isle color work in Chapter 7.) If Fair Isle isn’t your cup of tea, try a mosaic motif — directions are given in the variation after the basic pattern. But because this top has such a great shape, it’ll look great plain, too.
The pattern for the lacy V-neck top later in this chapter is knit at the same gauge as this one, so if you prefer a V-neck sweater, you can follow the neck shaping directions from that pattern.
Figure 14-8:
The scoop-neck pullover with Fair Isle borders.
Materials and Vital statistics
Yarn: Crystal Palace Yarns Creme (60% wool, 40% silk); 124 yards (114 meters) per 50 grams
• Main color (MC): 2005 Buttercup; 9 (10, 11, 12, 14, 15) skeins
• Contrasting color 1 (CC1): 2015 Henna; 1 skein
• Contrasting color 2 (CC2): 2014 Russet; 1 skein
• Contrasting color 3 (CC3): 2031 Vine Green; 1 skein
• Contrasting color 4 (CC4): 2032 Royal Purple; 1 skein
Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needle, 24-inch length, or the size needed to match gauge; US 6 (4 mm) circular needle, 24-inch length; US 5 (3.75 mm) circular needle, 24-inch length
Other materials: Yarn needle; stitch markers or safety pins; stitch holder Size: S (M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) or actual chest size of 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54) inches
• Finished chest circumference: 36>2 (39>2, 43, 49, 55>2, 59) inches
• Finished length: 24K (24K, 25, 25, 26, 26)
See the schematic in Figure 14-9 for detailed measurements of this sweater
Gauge: 20 stitches and 24 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch and in Fair Isle pattern
This sweater has simple, clean lines that make it a classic, but the subtle detailing makes it flattering. You start by knitting a hem facing; it’s just a couple of inches of stockinette stitch that’s turned under and sewn in place when the sweater’s done. The hem facing does away with the need for a border or ribs, so the line and the pattern of the sweater flows uninterrupted.
After that you add some color. You can follow the multicolor Fair Isle pattern that I use in the basic pattern, or, if you like, you can substitute one of the other Fair Isle or mosaic motifs given in Chapter 7; they’ve been specifically tailored to work for this top. Another option is to work the pullover in a single color. The shape of the sweater, combined with a butter-soft silk and wool yarn, will make it a wardrobe favorite no matter how you decide to color it.
Figure 14-9:
The measurements of the scoop-neck pullover.
After the color work is complete, you add a bit of waist shaping. A few decreases from the hip to the waist and a few increases from the waist to the chest make the fit on this sweater feminine. The front is worked the same as the back, but with a deep scoop neck. The sleeves, like the body, feature a turned-under hem facing and a repeat of the color work done on the body.
Many knitters knit stranded patterns, like Fair Isle, tighter than single-color stockinette. To avoid an inconsistent gauge, take time to swatch over both patterns. And, if necessary, work the Fair Isle portion with larger needles to keep your gauge consistent.
Starting with the back
Using US 6 needles (or one size smaller than needed to match gauge), cast on 91 (99, 107, 123, 139, 147) sts with MC.
Work in stockinette stitch (knit a row, purl a row) for 10 rows, ending with a WS row. Purl 1 RS row to create a turning ridge for the hem.
Switch to US 7 needles (or the size needed to match gauge) and continue in stockinette stitch for 1 inch, ending with a WS row.
Fair Isle border
Begin the Fair Isle pattern, following the chart shown in Figure 14-10. To begin the color pattern, work the right selvedge stitch outside the dark line, work across the 8-stitch pattern between the dark lines 11 (12, 13, 15, 17, 18) times, and then work the 2 left selvedge stitches. Working these 3 selvedge (or edge) stitches keeps your pattern centered and gives you a stitch on each side for your seams.
When you’re working a WS row, the 2 selvedge stitches at the left side of the chart are worked first, and then the chart repeat is worked 11 (12, 13, 15, 17, 18) times. Finally you work the selvedge stitch at the right side of the chart.
Figure 14-10:
The 8-stitch Fair Isle chart, with three selvedge stitches.
Work through all 20 rows of the chart, and then continue in stockinette stitch with the main color only. The pullover will measure about 4/2 inches from the turning ridge.
Waist shaping
Next RS row (Decrease Row): K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. (See Chapter 6 for more about ssk and k2tog.)
Repeat the decrease row every 4th row 4 more times. There are 81 (89, 97, 113, 129, 137) sts.
Work even until the sweater measures 9 inches from the turning ridge, ending with a WS row, and then begin increasing as follows:
Next RS row (Increase Row): K2, m1, knit to last 2 sts, m1, k2. (I show you how to do the m1 increase earlier in this chapter.)
Continue in stockinette stitch and repeat the increase row every 6th row 4 more times. There are 91 (99, 107, 123, 139, 147) sts.
Work even until the front measures 16 (16, 16, 16, 16>2, 16>2) inches from the turning ridge.
Armhole shaping
Bind off 5 (6, 7, 8, 11, 12) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Bind off 3 (5, 5, 8, 10, 12) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 st at each side of every RS row 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6) times, as follows: Next row (RS): K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
When all decreases have been worked, 73 (73, 77, 83, 87, 87) sts remain.
Work even until the back measures 5>2 (5>2, 6, 6, 6>2, 6/2) inches from the beginning of the armhole shaping, ending with a WS row.
Neck shaping
You now work each side of the neck separately.
Next row (RS): K22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26) and slip these sts to a holder for the left shoulder, bind off 29 (29, 29, 35, 35, 35) sts, knit to end of row. There are 22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26) sts.
Right neck
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to end of row.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 5 more times. There are 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts on this shoulder.
Work even until the armhole measures 8>2 (8>2, 9, 9, 9>2, 9>2) inches, ending with a RS row.
Right shoulder
Bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts at the beginning of the next 2 WS rows.
Left neck
Replace the held stitches on the needle with the WS facing and rejoin the yarn.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 5 more times. There are 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts on this shoulder.
Work even until the armhole measures 8>2 (8>2, 9, 9, 9>2, 9>2) inches, ending with a WS row.
Left shoulder
Bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts at the beginning of the next 2 RS rows.
Moving to the front
Work the front the same as the back through the end of the armhole shaping. There are 73 (73, 77, 83, 87, 87) sts.
Work in stockinette stitch for 1 inch, and then work the neck and shoulder shaping in the same way as for the back, beginning with the “Neck shaping” section. Note that the front neckline is deeper than the back, so there will be more rows worked between the end of the neckline decreases and the beginning of the shoulder shaping.
Making the sleeves
Using the US 6 needles (or one size smaller than the size needed to match gauge), cast on 51 (51, 51, 59, 59, 59) sts. Work in stockinette stitch for 6 rows, ending with a purl row.
Purl 1 RS row to create a turning ridge.
Switch to the US 7 needles (or the size needed to match gauge) and continue in stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 1 inch from the turning ridge.
Begin working the Fair Isle border, if desired. To do so, work the right selvedge stitch outside the dark line, work across the 8-stitch pattern between the dark lines 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7) times, and then work the 2 left selvedge stitches. Working these 3 extra stitches keeps your pattern centered and gives you a stitch on each side for your seams. Remember that when you’re working a WS row, the 2 selvedge stitches at the left side of the chart are worked first, and then the chart repeat is worked 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7) times. Finally the selvedge stitch at the right side of the chart is worked.
Work through all 20 rows of the chart.
When the Fair Isle border is complete, work 3 rows in stockinette stitch with MC. Next RS row (Increase Row): K2, m1, knit to last 2 sts, m1, k2.
Continue in stockinette stitch with MC and repeat increase row every 8th row 7 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0) times; every 6th row 0 (10, 12, 11, 8, 4) times; then every 4th row 0 (0, 0, 0, 5, 12) times. There are 67 (73, 77, 83, 87, 93) sts.
If the pattern tells you to do something 0 times, don’t do it at all!
Work even until the sleeve measures 17 (17, 1734, 17K, 18, 18) inches from the turning ridge, ending with a WS row.
Now shape the sleeve cap as follows:
Bind off 5 (6, 7, 8, 11, 12) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Bind off 3 (5, 5, 8, 10, 12) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 st at each side of the work every RS row 17 (17, 18, 17, 15, 15) times as follows:
Next row (RS): K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Bind off remaining 17 (17, 17, 17, 15, 15) sts. Make a second sleeve the same way.
Finishing your pullover
Block all of the pieces to the measurements given on the schematic (see Figure 14-13). Using mattress stitch, sew shoulder seams together. (See the appendix for more about blocking and mattress stitch.)
Place a marker or safety pin every 2 inches around the neck. Starting at the right shoulder, use the smallest needles to pick up and knit 9 sts between every 2 markers all the way around the neck. (See Chapter 13 for guidelines on picking up neckline stitches, if you need help.)
Place a marker and join to work in the round. Switch to the largest needles and purl 1 round to begin garter stitch.
Switch to needles one size smaller and work 2 more rounds in garter stitch (knit 1 round, purl 1 round).
Go down one more needle size, work 2 more rounds in garter stitch, and then bind off.
Sew sleeve caps into place, and then sew sleeve seams and side seams.
Turn under hems at the turning ridges and then sew them in place, keeping these seams loose enough so that you aren’t causing any puckering. Weave in remaining ends and block again if desired.
Variation: Making a mosaic border
To make a mosaic border in place of the Fair Isle, you need the same amount of the main color yarn specified for your size in the basic pattern and one ball of yarn in a contrasting color. Remember that stronger contrasts give the best results.
Follow the directions for the basic version of the sweater but instead of the Fair Isle border, work one of the 8-stitch mosaic patterns presented in Chapter 7. Like the Fair Isle pattern, these patterns have 3 selvedge stitches. Depending on the height of your mosaic, you may need to work several rows in the main color before your sweater measures 4K inches from the turning ridge and you’re ready to begin the waist shaping.
Lacy V-Neck Top
This lace-trimmed top can be knit hip length like the previous scoop-neck pullover or cropped as you see in Figure 14-11. But don’t slam the topic shut at the thought of a cropped top! I’m not suggesting that anyone bare her midriff, but over a slim shirt or an empire waist dress, a shorter sweater like the one in Figure 14-11 can look really great, especially on your favorite teen. This top features a deep, wide V-neck that’s great for layering. Coupled with the lace, it’s feminine and flattering. Besides, it’s a lot less knitting than the full-length sweater. This pattern gives you more than this one trendy top, though! You can find directions for a full-length version with gentle waist shaping to flatter your form in a later variation.
The yarn I’ve chosen for this pattern has wonderful drape and is a delight to wear, but the gauge makes it easy to substitute, so you can use this pattern for ages. And remember, the critical numbers for this top and the scoop-neck pullover in the previous pattern are the same, which means that you can knit this one with the rounded neckline if you prefer — simply follow the directions for the scoop-neck pullover when you get to the armhole shaping.
Figure 14-11:
This lacy V-neck can be knit cropped or hip length.
Materials and vital statistics
Yarn: Berocco Softwist (41% wool, 59% rayon); 100 yards (92 meters) per 50 grams; 8 (9, 10, 11, 13, 15) skeins; color: 9437 Green
Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) needles; 16-inch or 24-inch circular needle, or the size needed to match gauge
Other: Yarn needle; 1 stitch marker; stitch holder ‘ Size: S (M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) or actual chest size of 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54) inches
• Finished chest circumference: 36>2 (39>2, 43, 49, 55>2, 59) inches
• Finished length: 14K (14K, 15K, 15K, 16K, 16^ inches
See the schematic in Figure 14-12 for detailed measurements of this sweater * Gauge: 20 stitches and 28 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Figure 14-12:
The schematic of the lacy V-neck top.
The back, front, and sleeves of this sweater begin with a straightforward lace pattern. (If you’re new to lace knitting, head to Chapter 6, where you can also find a couple of different lace patterns to use as substitutes.) For the cropped version, you begin the armhole decreases shortly after you finish the lace. If you want to make this into a more traditional sweater, see the variation at the end of the pattern. The finished top will have the same silhouette as the scoop-neck pullover, but with the same lace detailing as the cropped top.
Starting with the back
Using a straight or circular US 7 needle (or the size you need to match gauge), cast on 91 (99, 107, 123, 139, 147) sts.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Begin lace pattern as follows:
Row 1: K2 *yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2, yo, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1. (See Chapter 6 if you’re unfamiliar with yo, k2tog, or psso.)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K3, *yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k3, repeat from * to end. Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K4, *yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k5, repeat from * to last 7 sts, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k4.
Row 6: Purl.
Repeat these 6 rows 3 more times — your sweater will measure approximately 4 inches.
Work even in stockinette stitch (knit a row, purl a row) until the back measures 6 (6, 6>2, 6>2, 7, 7) inches, ending with a WS row.
Armhole shaping
Bind off 5 (6, 7, 8, 11, 12) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Bind off 3 (5, 5, 8, 10, 12) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. There are 75 (77, 83, 91, 97, 99) sts.
Decrease 1 st at each side of every RS row 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6) times, as follows: Next row (RS): K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
When all decreases have been worked, 73 (73, 77, 83, 87, 87) sts remain.
Work even until the back measures 6>2 (6>2, 7, 7, 7>2, 7/2) inches from the beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a WS row.
Neck shaping
You now work each side of the neck separately.
Next row (RS): K22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26) and slip these stitches to a holder for the left shoulder, bind off 29 (29, 29, 35, 35, 35) sts, knit to end of row. There are 22 (22, 24, 24,
26, 26) sts.
Right neck
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to end of row.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 5 more times. There are 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts on this shoulder.
Work even until the armhole measures 8K (8K, 9, 9, 9K, 9K) inches, ending with a RS row.
Right shoulder
Bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts at the beginning of the next 2 WS rows.
Left neck
Replace the held stitches on the needle with the WS facing and rejoin the yarn.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 5 more times. There are 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts on this shoulder.
Work even until the armhole measures 8>2 (8>2, 9, 9, 9>2, 9>2) inches, ending with a WS row.
Left shoulder
Bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts at the beginning of the next 2 RS rows.
Moving to the front
Work the front the same as the back to the beginning of the armhole shaping. There are 91 (99, 107, 123, 139, 147) sts, and the front measures 6 (6, 6K, 6K, 7, 7) inches from the cast-on edge.
Armhole shaping
Bind off 5 (6, 7, 8, 11, 12) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Bind off 3 (5, 5, 8, 10, 12) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. There are 75 (77, 83, 91, 97, 99) sts.
You’ll be shaping the neck and the armhole at the same time, so read through the whole section before continuing to knit.
Neck shaping
You’ll decrease at each armhole edge and make the first neckline decreases, dividing the left and right neck, which you then work separately as follows:
Next row (RS): K1, ssk, k31 (32, 35, 39, 42, 43), k2tog, k1, slip all sts just worked to a
holder for the left shoulder; bind off the center st, ssk, k31 (32, 35, 39, 42, 43), k2tog,
k1. There are 35 (36, 39, 43, 46, 47) sts. (I show you how to do the ssk decrease in Chapter 6.)
Right neck and shoulder
Continue decreasing 1 st at the armhole edge every RS row 0 (1, 2, 3, 4, 5) more times. If the pattern tells you to do something 0 times, don’t do it at all. At the same time, shape the neck.
Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to end of row. Remember to work the armhole decrease if needed for your size.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Repeat these 2 rows 19 (19, 19, 22, 22, 22) more times. There are 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts on the right shoulder.
Work even until the armhole measures 8>2 (8>2, 9, 9, 9>2, 9>2) inches, ending with a RS row. Bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts at the beginning of the next 2 WS rows.
Left neck and shoulder
Replace the held stitches on the needle with the WS facing, and then rejoin the yarn. Continue decreasing 1 st at the armhole edge every RS row 0 (1, 2, 3, 4, 5) more times. At the same time, shape the neck, as follows:
Next row (WS): Purl.
Next row (RS): Remember to work the armhole decrease if needed for your size, and then knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat the previous 2 rows 19 (19, 19, 22, 22, 22) more times. There are 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts on the left shoulder.
Work even until the armhole measures 8>2 (8>2, 9, 9, 9>2, 9>2) inches, ending with a WS row.
Bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts at the beginning of the next 2 RS rows.
Making the steeves
The sleeves are slightly belled and use the same lace detailing as the body. Cast on 51 (51, 51, 59, 59, 59) sts.
Next row (WS): Purl.
Begin the lace pattern as follows:
Row 1: K2 *yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2, yo, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1. Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K3, *yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k3, repeat from * to end. Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K4, *yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k5, repeat from * to last 7 sts, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k4.
Row 6: Purl.
Work the 6 rows of the lace pattern 4 more times.
Switch to stockinette stitch and begin the sleeve increases:
Next RS row (Increase Row): K2, m1, knit to last 2 sts, m1, k2.
Repeat increase row every 8th row 7 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0) times, every 6th row 0 (10, 12, 11, 8, 4) times, and then every 4th row 0 (0, 0, 0, 5, 12) times. There are 67 (73, 77, 83, 87, 93) sts.
Work even until the sleeve measures 17 (17, 17>2, 17K, 18, 18) inches or desired length, ending with a WS row.
Now shape the sleeve cap as follows:
Bind off 5 (6, 7, 8, 11, 12) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Bind off 3 (5, 5, 8, 10, 12) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 st at each side of every RS row 17 (17, 18, 17, 15, 15) times as follows:
Decrease Row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Bind off remaining 17 (17, 17, 17, 15, 15) sts.
Make a second sleeve the same way.
Creating the collar
I’ve chosen to finish the collar with a repeat of the lace pattern. If this seems daunting to you, leave it as it is or finish it with a simple crochet edging.
Start by sewing the shoulder seams together with mattress stitch. (See the appendix for hints on crochet and mattress stitch.)
With the RS facing, use a US 7 circular needle (and a crochet hook if desired) to pick up and knit 152 sts, as follows:
Beginning at the right shoulder seam, pick up and knit 56 sts along the back neckline, 48 sts from left shoulder seam to bottom of left front neck shaping, place marker, pick up and knit 1 st in bound-off st at center, place marker, pick up and knit 47 sts up right front neck.
You can find out about picking up neckline stitches in Chapter 13. Place a marker and join in the round.
Round 1: *K1, yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2, yo, repeat from * to 8 sts before the marked center st, k1, yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2, slip marker, knit center st, slip marker, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2, yo, resume lace pattern from * to end of round. There are 150 sts.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: *K2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k1, repeat from * to 7 sts before marked center st, k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, slip marker, knit the center st, slip marker, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k1, resume lace pattern from * to end of round. There are 148 sts.
Round 4: Knit.
Round 5: *K3, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k2, repeat from * to 6 sts before marked center st, k3, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, slip marker, knit the center st, slip marker, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k2, resume lace pattern from * to end of rounds. There are 146 sts.
Round 6: Bind off.
Finishing your top
Block all pieces to the measurements given on the schematic (see Figure 14-12). Sew the sleeve caps in place, and then sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Weave in your ends. (See the appendix for more about blocking and mattress stitch).
Variation: Lengthening your top
The cropped top is fun, but it isn’t right for everyone. This longer version, shown in Figure 14-13, is just as lovely; the same lace detailing and flattering neckline combined with waist shaping will give you a very feminine result. It’s so fabulous you’ll want to make more than one! The sleeves and collar are the same as the basic pattern — only the front and back are different. You need 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6) more skeins of Softwist to make this longer version.
Back
Cast on and work the lace pattern as directed in the basic pattern.
Continue in stockinette stitch (knit a row, purl a row) until the back measures about 4>2 inches, ending with a WS row, and then begin the waist shaping.
Waist shaping: Next row (Decrease Row) (RS): K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Repeat the decrease row every 4th row 4 more times. There are 81 (89, 97, 113, 129, 137) sts.
Work even until the sweater measures 9 inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row, and then begin increasing as follows:
Next row (Increase Row) (RS): K2, m1, knit to last 2 sts, m1, k2.
Repeat the increase row every 6th row 4 more times. There are 91 (99, 107, 123, 139, 147) sts.
Work even until the back measures 16 (16, 16, 16, 1634, 16>2) inches from the cast-on edge.
Work the armhole and neckline shaping as described in the basic pattern.
Front
Work the front the same as the back to the beginning of the armhole shaping. There are 91 (99, 107, 123, 139, 147) sts, and the front measures 16 (16, 16, 16, 16K, 16K) inches from the cast-on edge.
Work the armhole and neckline shaping as described in the basic pattern.
Finishing
Follow the directions in the basic pattern for the sleeves and collar as well as for the finishing of the sweater.
Figure 14-13:
The dimensions and shaping of the full-length top.
