Knitting in Circles

In This Chapter

Creating circles and cylinders with ease Using circular and double-pointed needles Making cowls, wrist warmers, hats, and bags most knitters learn to knit with something flat because they think that it’s easier. But WWW aside from the slightly fiddly moment where you have to join your circle after you cast on, knitting in the round is usually easier than knitting flat. Think about it as you doodle a straight line and a circle on paper. If you trace the line over and over again with your finger, your finger has to stop and change direction at each end. But when you trace the circle, your finger is always moving in one direction and never has to stop and go back the other direction. Knitting in the round is like that too; you don’t have to turn your work, so you’re never working on the wrong side. This means you can knit stockinette stitch without purling. Plus, you do less finishing. You can knit in the round on circular needles or double-pointed needles — this chapter gives you opportunities to try both. (You can head to Chapter 1 for more details about these types of needles.)
This chapter will have you going around in circles as you create all kinds of great accessories. In this chapter, I provide patterns for the following projects:
A cowl that will keep your head and neck warm all winter long. You can also use this pattern to create a poncho.
Two different takes on wrist warmers. The first is an easy fingerless glove and the second is a ruffled muffatee. The muffatee covers the area between your glove and jacket, and does it with great style!
Hat patterns. Hats are the perfect circle project because they’re quick to knit and allow you to practice with both circular and double-pointed needles. Try the basic beanie, a cabled beanie variation, or a long-tailed hat.
A wonderful felted purse that’s worked in a mosaic pattern. This project is a great way to try your hand at color work.


Ruffled Cowl

The cowl in Figure 11-1 is fun to knit and is an easy introduction to circular knitting. It features ribbing on one end and a sumptuous ruffle on the other. You might wear the ruffle slouched around your neck or pulled up for an anemone-like head warmer.
It isn’t difficult to turn this cowl into a classically styled poncho that’s knit in the round — see the later variation for the details.
A cowl makes a great neck warmer.
Figure 11-1:
A cowl makes a great neck warmer.

New skill: Joining your knitting in the round

The one big trick to circular knitting is to “join, being careful not to twist.” Nearly every pattern designed to be knit in the round will remind you of this fact. Here’s how you do it:
1. Cast on the number of stitches the pattern calls for.
2. Before you start to knit the first round, check to make sure that the stitches aren’t spiraling around the circular needle.
All the stitches should lay in one direction as they do in Figure 11-2, and the tops of the stitches should be pointing up. Now you’re ready to start knitting!
No twists are in the cast-on row.
Figure 11-2:
No twists are in the cast-on row.
3. Place a marker on the right needle at the beginning of the round to remind yourself where one round ends and the next one begins.
In a pinch, you can use a bit of scrap yarn tied in a loop as your marker.
4. Hold the needles so that the first cast-on stitch is the first stitch on the left needle and the working yarn is at the right.
5. Insert the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle as shown in Figure 11-3 and knit it.
Use a marker when you join your knitting in the round.
Figure 11-3:
Use a marker when you join your knitting in the round.
Take care to snug up the yarn on this first stitch; it tends to be loose. However, don’t worry too much about the loose first stitch — it will look better in a couple of rows. Besides, when you weave in the tail at the end you get another chance to tidy it up.
Some knitters like to cast on an extra stitch, transfer it to the left needle, and work a k2tog for the first stitch to make the join less visible — try it if you’d like! (To find out how to knit two stitches together, see Chapter 6.)

New skill: Increasing with kfb

This cowl pattern uses an increase that’s abbreviated as kfb (some knitters abbreviate it klfb). These abbreviations stand for “knit into the front and back of the stitch.” Kfb, which is probably the most common increase, is sometimes called the bar increase because it makes a little horizontal bar at the base of the increased stitch.
To knit into the front and back of a stitch and increase 1, follow these steps:
1. Knit the stitch normally but don’t slide the old stitch off the left needle.
2. Bring the right needle behind the left needle and insert it into the back of that same stitch as shown in Figure 11-4.
Wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle and complete the stitch, and then slide the old stitch off the left needle. You’ve made 2 stitches from 1.
There are two basic groups of increases: those done between stitches (called “make 1″; see Chapter 14 for more details) and those done in a stitch, like kfb. They both accomplish the same thing, but because one uses a stitch and one doesn’t, you shouldn’t substitute one for the other when working from a pattern — you’ll end up with the wrong number of stitches between decreases. If a pattern simply says “increase” without specifying a particular increase, stick with kfb.
Increasing with kfb.
Figure 11-4:
Increasing with kfb.

Materials and vital statistics

Yarn: Crystal Palace Yarns Merino Stripes (90% wool, 10% acrylic); 115 yards (105 meters) per 50 grams; 3 skeins; color: 62
Needles: US 10>2 (6.5 mm) circular needle, 16- or 24-inch length
Other materials: One stitch marker; yarn needle
Size: 28 inches in circumference and 23 inches long; see the schematic for the cowl in Figure 11-5
Gauge: 10 stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
The dimensions of the cowl.
Figure 11-5:
The dimensions of the cowl.
This cowl is knit in the round in one piece, starting with a bit of ribbing and ending with a playful ruffle. After you get through the first few rounds, you’ll discover why people enjoy knitting a project in the round: It’s all knit stitches, and with no ends of rows, it’s easy to keep knitting away. So, you’ll find this neck warmer quick to finish.

Directions

Cast on 72 sts, place marker, and join in the round, being careful not to twist. Next round: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Repeat the previous round 3 more times.
Switch to stockinette stitch (knit every round) and continue knitting in the round until your cowl measures 22 inches, and then begin the ruffle.
Next round: Kfb in each st. There are 144 sts.
Next round: Knit.
Next round: Kfb in each st. There are 288 sts.
Next round: Knit.
Bind off and weave in ends.

Variation: Turning your cowl into a poncho

To make this cowl into a short poncho, you need the same amount of yarn and the same needles, plus four stitch markers. You have to switch to a longer circular needle of the same size (at least 36 inches long) as the poncho grows because there are an awful lot of stitches for the ruffle on the last few rounds!
Both the poncho and the cowl are worked basically the same — from the ribbed end to the ruffle. For the poncho, you increase regularly at four points, but for the cowl, you skip the increasing. Geometrically minded knitters will think of the cowl as a cylinder and the poncho as a truncated cone or four-sided pyramid shape.
This poncho is on the small side: It measures 12 inches from the neck to the hem as shown in Figure 11-6, so it only comes down to about the elbow. If you want to make it bigger, just buy more yarn and keep going!
The shape and dimensions of the poncho.
Figure 11-6:
The shape and dimensions of the poncho.

Here’s how to knit your poncho:

Begin as you would for the cowl: Cast on, place a marker, and join in the round, being careful not to twist. Knit the ribbing as I describe in the basic pattern.
Next round: Slip marker, *kfb, k16, kfb, place marker, repeat from * twice more, kfb, k16, kfb. There are 80 sts.
Next round: Knit, slipping markers as you encounter them.
Next round: *Kfb, knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker, repeat from * to end. 8 sts have been increased.
Repeat the previous 2 rounds 20 more times, switching to a longer circular needle when necessary. There are 248 sts. Your poncho measures about 11 inches.
Knit 1 round.
Work the 4 rounds of the ruffle as I describe in the basic pattern. There are 992 sts (but you don’t need to worry about counting them!)
Bind off and weave in ends.

Wrist Warmers

Wrist warmers, or fingerless gloves, are a great way to get the hang of using double-pointed needles because their shape is simple. If you want to, you can make them longer by knitting a few more inches before making the thumb hole. Try them in a soft, warm, self-striping yarn as shown in Figure 11-7, making both wrist warmers the same or playfully different. They’re great under gloves in very cold weather, and perfect on their own indoors, especially as you type on chilly mornings.
Wrist warmers are a great project on double-pointed needles.
Figure 11-7:
Wrist warmers are a great project on double-pointed needles.

New skill: Working with double-pointed needles

Once you get going with double-pointed needles, you’ll find that it isn’t much different from using a circular needle: You’re just going around and around in circles without ever turning. Getting started can feel a bit like juggling chopsticks, though, so give yourself some time to get the hang of it. And know that it gets easier after you have a few rows knit.

To start knitting on four double-pointed needles, follow these steps:

1. Cast on all your stitches to a single needle.
For the wrist warmers, you should be able to fit them all on a single double-pointed needle, but you can also use a longer straight needle if you want.
2. After all the stitches are cast on, divide them among three of the double-pointed needles as shown in Figure 11-8.
For some projects (like socks for instance), it’s important to have the stitches divided in a specific way. For the wrist warmers, however, you don’t need to have the same number of stitches on each needle; just eyeball it and put about a third of the stitches on each needle.
Divide your cast-on stitches among three double-pointed needles.
Figure 11-8:
Divide your cast-on stitches among three double-pointed needles.
3. After the stitches are divided, join the stitches in the round just as you do on a circular needle.
Make sure the stitches aren’t twisted (see the section “New skill: Joining your knitting in the round” earlier in this chapter). Place a marker and knit the first stitch as shown in Figure 11-9 with your remaining empty needle.
Knitting the first stitch of the round on double-pointed needles.
Figure 11-9:
Knitting the first stitch of the round on double-pointed needles.
4. Knit all the stitches from the needle in your left hand.
The needle that was empty is now full and you have an empty needle in your left hand.
5. Put the empty needle into your right hand and use it to knit the stitches off the next needle and so on.
As you continue with the four needles, remember that you always knit in a circle just as you do on a circular needle, with the four needles “taking turns” being the working needle. If you’re having trouble, it may be easier to manage if you keep in mind that you’re only knitting with two needles at once. In other words, ignore the rest of them, and just take it one stitch at a time around the circle.

Materials and vital statistics

Yarn: Rowan Tapestry (70% wool, 30% soy); 130 yards (120 meters) per 50 grams; 2 balls; color: Whirlpool
Needles: A set of US 4 (3.5 mm) double-pointed needles, or the size needed to match gauge
Other materials: One stitch marker; yarn needle to weave in ends Size: Women’s S (M, L, 1X)
• To fit hand/forearm circumference of: 6 (7, 8, 9) inches
• Length: 6 (7, 8, 9) inches
Gauge: 28 stitches and 32 rows per 4 inches in 2 x 2 rib on US 4 (3.5 mm) needles (if you’re looking for a yarn to substitute, you need one that lists its gauge as 22 stitches per 4 inches in stockinette stitch)
After you get started with your double-pointed needles, you’ll have these wrist warmers finished in no time. Unlike socks or gloves, you won’t have any shaping to worry about; these wrist warmers are simple cylinders with small holes for your thumbs. For more experienced knitters, they’re still fun to make and they’re a great on-the-go project because they don’t take up too much room in your bag — perfect knitting for those few minutes you have on the bus or waiting in the dentist’s office.

Directions

Make 2 wrist warmers that are the same, as follows:
Cast on 40 (48, 56, 64) sts onto 1 double-pointed needle. Divide the sts among 3 double-pointed needles. Place a marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist.
Begin working in rib as follows: Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end.
Repeat this round until your wrist warmer measures 5 (6, 7, 8) inches.
Next round: K2, bind off 6 (8, 8, 10) sts, work in rib pattern to the end of the round.
Next round: K2, cast on 6 (8, 8, 10) sts over the bound-off sts, work in rib pattern to the end of the round.
Continue in rib as set for 1 more inch and then bind off all sts. Weave in ends.

Ruffled Muffatees

Muffatees, a word used by Victorians (and Peter Rabbit’s mother, who had to knit them to make ends meet), are simply wrist warmers, but I think of them as being fancier than the more utilitarian Bob Cratchit style. The pair in Figure 11-10, worked in a lovely silk blend, features a belled ruffle that covers the wrist and top of the hand. Unlike the wrist warmers in the previous section, these don’t have a thumbhole; these muffatees are really just a knitted tube with a ruffle on the end. They’re perfect over gloves on a really icy day or any day under a jacket or coat to add a splash of color and whimsy.
Ruffled muffatees warm your wrists with style.
Figure 11-10:
Ruffled muffatees warm your wrists with style.
These muffatees are quick to make and the fit only needs to be approximate, so they make a great gift when winter rolls around.

Materials and vital statistics

Yarn: Lang Silkdream (50% merino, 50% silk); 100 yards (90 meters) per 50 grams; 2 skeins; color: 0020 Sky Blue
Needles: US 6 (4 mm) double-pointed needles, or the size needed to match gauge Other materials: One stitch marker; yarn needle to weave in ends Size: Women’s S (M, L)
• To fit a forearm circumference of: 6 (7, 8) inches
• Length: 7 (8, 9) inches, including a 2-inch ruffle
Gauge: 24 stitches and 28 rows per 4 inches in 2 x 2 rib. (if you’re looking for a yarn to substitute, look for one that lists its gauge as 18 stitches per 4 inches in stockinette stitch)
These muffatees, like the wrist warmers in the previous pattern, are a great introduction to using double-pointed needles. The ruffled edges, which you create by increasing rapidly over the last few rows, are fun and feminine. After you get the hang of knitting a ruffle, you’ll want to try ruffles on cuffs, hems, or the edges of a scarf.

Directions

Make 2 muffatees that are the same, as follows:
Cast on 36 (44, 48) sts onto 1 double-pointed needle, and then divide sts among 3 double-pointed needles. Place a marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist.
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round until your muffatee measures 5 (6, 7) inches long.
The ruffle is formed by increasing a lot of stitches over a few rows. The increase I use is the untwisted make 1 (m1), which forms a little decorative hole. If you don’t want the holes, twist your m1s. See Chapter 14 for a full explanation of this increase.
Round 1: *M1, k2, m1, p2, repeat from * to end. There are 54 (66, 72) sts.
Rounds 2, 3, and 4: *K4, p2, repeat from * to end.
Round 5: *M1, k4, m1, p2, repeat from * to end. There are 72 (88, 96) sts. Rounds 6, 7, and 8: *K6, p2, repeat from * to end.
Round 9: *M1, k6, m1, p2, repeat from * to end. There are 90 (110, 120) sts. Rounds 10, 11, and 12: *K8, p2, repeat from * to end. Bind off and weave in any loose ends.

Basic Beanies

A good hat is a must-have in your knitting repertoire, and this basic beanie, sized for babies through adults, fits the bill. Make it plain or cabled. Add in stripes or a color pattern. (Any of the 8-stitch mosaic or Fair Isle patterns given in Chapter 7 can be used with this pattern, but remember to leave out the extra edge stitches since you’re working in the round.) After your beanie is knit, top it with a pompom or tassel. The variations are endless. Check out some beanies in Figure 11-11.
A basic beanie and its cabled cousin.
Figure 11-11:
A basic beanie and its cabled cousin.

Materials and vital statistics

Yarn: Berrocco Smart Mohair (41% mohair, 54% acrylic, 5% polyester); 108 yards (100 meters) per 50 grams; 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) balls; color: Pink
Needles: US 10 (6 mm) circular needle, 16-inch length, or the size needed to match gauge; US 8 (5 mm) circular needle, 16-inch length; US 10 (6 mm) double-pointed needles
Other materials: Eight stitch markers; yarn needle to weave in ends
Size: Baby (toddler, child, small adult, large adult); circumference: 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) inches, unstretched
Gauge: 16 stitches and 20 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles
This beanie is worked in the round, starting on circular needles and switching to double-pointed needles when you shape the crown of the hat. If you want to include any color patterning, add it to the body of the hat between the ribbing and the decreases. If you’d like to knit cables on your hat, see the variation at the end of the pattern.

Directions

Cast on 56 (64, 72, 80, 88) sts with the smaller circular needles. Place marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist.
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat this round for 24 (1, 1, 1/2, 2) inches.
Switch to larger circular needles and begin knitting in stockinette stitch (knit all rounds).
When your hat measures 4>2 (5, 5>2, 6>2, 7) inches, begin the crown shaping as follows:
Next round: *K7 (8, 9, 10, 11), place marker, repeat from * to end.
Next round (Decrease Round): *K2tog, knit to marker, slip marker, repeat from * to end. 8 sts have been decreased.
Next round: Knit.
Repeat these 2 rounds until 8 sts remain, switching to double-pointed needles when you have too few sts to fit comfortably on your circular needle.
Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail.
Finishing: Thread the tail of the yarn onto the yarn needle. Slip the stitches from the knitting needle to the yarn needle, making sure that you go through each stitch. Pull the yarn firmly to tighten up the top of the hat, and then run the yarn through the stitches again before weaving in the yarn end on the inside to secure. Weave in any remaining ends.
If you want, you can top your beanie with a pompom, knitted flower, or other adornment for extra flair.

Variation: Creating a cabled beanie

This cabled hat features straightforward six-stitch cables (see Chapter 6). It is made with the same yarn and needles as the basic beanie, fits a toddler (child, small adult, large adult), and measures 16 (17>2, 19, 22) inches around. You need six stitch markers to help keep your decreases lined up.
Using the smaller circular needles, cast on 66 (72, 78, 90) sts. Place a marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist.
Ribbing round: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Repeat this round for 1 (1, 2, 2) inches.
Switch to the larger circular needles and begin the six-stitch right cable pattern as follows, placing markers on the first round as indicated:
Rounds 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5: *K6, p5 (6, 7, 9), place marker, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: *Slip 3 sts to the cable needle and hold to back, k3, k3 from cable needle, p5 (6, 7, 9), repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat these 6 rounds until the hat measures 5>2 (6, 6>2, 7) inches, and then begin decreasing as follows:
Continue the cable pattern as set on the columns of 6 knit sts. In other words, you should cable every 6th round (even though the decreasing is occurring too).
Next round: *K6, p2tog, purl to marker, repeat from * to end of round.
If you’re unfamiliar with purling 2 stitches together (p2tog), here’s how to do it: Insert the right needle into the next 2 stitches purlwise, wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle, and then purl them to decrease 1 stitch.
Next round: Work even, knitting and purling the sts as they appear.
Repeat the previous 2 rounds 3 (4, 5, 7) more times. There are 42 sts on the needles.
Stop the cable pattern and finish the hat in stockinette stitch (knit all rounds).
Next round: *K5, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 36 sts remain.
Next round: Knit.
Next round: *K4, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 30 sts remain. Next round: Knit.
Next round: *K3, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 24 sts remain. Next round: Knit.
Next round *K2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 18 sts remain. Next round *K1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 12 sts remain. Next round: *K2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 6 sts remain.
Cut the yarn leaving a 12-inch tail.
Finishing: Use the same technique described in the basic pattern to finish your cabled beanie.

Storybook Hats

Sometimes it’s fun to have a silly hat, and the Dr. Seuss meets Waldo chapeau in Figure 11-12 certainly fits the bill. With a thick yarn, this hat is a quick knit and makes a great gift for your favorite snowboarder or snowman maker (or anyone who appreciates the absurd). The later variations show you to how use almost any yarn to make a similar hat. These hats are sure to chase away the winter blues.
A storybook hat chases away the winter blues.
Figure 11-12:
A storybook hat chases away the winter blues.

Materials and vital statistics

Yarn: Cascade Lana Grande (100% Peruvian wool); 87 yards (80 meters) per 50 grams
• Color A: Cream; 1 skein
• Color B: Pink; 1 skein
Needles: US 15 (10 mm) circular needle, 16-inch length; US 15 (10 mm) double-pointed needles; US 11 (8 mm) circular needle, 16-inch length
Other materials: Two stitch markers; yarn needle
Size: Baby (toddler, child, small adult, large adult)
• Circumference: 14 (16, 17K, 19, 21) inches unstretched
Length (without tassel): 12 (14, 16, 16, 18) inches
Gauge: 10 stitches and 12 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
This hat is worked in the round and goes quickly on big needles. You can make it with a single color, but I suggest you try the broad stripes as I have. For information on changing colors look to Chapter 7.

Directions

With the larger circular needles and color A, cast on 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) sts. Place a marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist.
Round 1: Using the smaller needles, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
Continue in rib until your hat measures 2 inches. Cut color A, leaving a 6-inch tail.
As you make this hat, cut and rejoin the yarns each time you switch colors.
Switch to color B and the larger circular needles. Work 6 rounds in stockinette stitch (knit all rounds).
Switch to color A.
Round 1: K9 (10, 11, 12, 13), place marker, k18 (20, 22, 24, 26), place marker, knit to end of round.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3 (Decrease Round): Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, knit to end of round.
Head to Chapter 6 to find out more about the k2tog and ssk decreases if you aren’t familiar with them.
Rounds 4, 5, and 6: Knit.
Switch to color B.
Round 7 (Decrease Round): Repeat Round 3.
Rounds 8, 9, and 10: Knit.
Round 11: Repeat Round 3.
Round 12: Knit.
Switch to double-pointed needles when there are too few sts on the needles to knit comfortably.
Continue repeating these 12 rounds until only 8 sts remain. Continue working even on these 8 sts to the end of the 6-round stripe if necessary.
Cut an 8-inch tail and, using a yarn needle, thread it through the remaining sts, pulling gently to gather them in. Run the yarn through the sts once more, and then weave in the tail on the inside. Weave in ends.
To make the tassel, start by wrapping the yarn around a paperback topic about 40 times.
Cut the yarn and wrap the tail tightly around all the strands a couple of times. Then tie with a firm knot, leaving the tail to use later to attach the tassel to the hat.
Slip the rounds of yarn off the topic and wrap a 1-foot length of yarn around the tassel 1 inch below the knot. Pull firmly before knotting in place. Cut through the loops at the opposite end of the tassel and then trim the ends so that they’re even.
To attach the tassel, thread the tail of yarn from the tassel onto a yarn needle. Insert the needle through the tip of the hat and pull the yarn through. Bring the needle through the base of the tassel. Insert the needle into the tip of the hat, bringing the yarn to the inside and then knot it firmly in place.

Variation: Changing yarns

If you want to knit this hat with a different weight yarn, use Table 11-1 to figure out your cast-on number, and then follow the directions in the basic pattern. You can use more than one color of yarn (which is a great way to use up your odds and ends!) or try a self-striping yarn.

Table 11-1 Cast-On Numbers for Different Yarns and Gauges
Gauge per Inch Cast on Number
3 44 (48, 52, 56, 64)
4 56 (64, 72, 76, 84)
43/5 64 (72, 80, 88, 96)
5 68 (80, 88, 96, 104)
51/2 76 (88, 96, 104, 116)

Knit the ribbing with needles that are two sizes smaller than the needles you use to get the gauge needed for the body of the hat.
Begin decreasing when the hat measures 4 inches. Place your markers as follows for your gauge:
3 sts per inch: K11 (12, 13, 14, 16), place marker, k22 (24, 26, 28, 32), place marker, knit to end of round.
4 sts per inch: K14 (16, 18, 19, 21), place marker, k28, (32, 36, 38, 42), place marker, knit to end of round.
434 sts per inch: K16 (18, 20 22, 24), place marker, k32 (36, 40, 44, 48), place marker, knit to end of round.
5 sts per inch: K17 (20, 22, 24, 26), place marker, k34 (40, 44, 48, 52), place marker, knit to end of round.
534 sts per inch: K19 (22, 24, 26, 29), place marker, k38, (44, 48, 52, 58), place marker, knit to end of round.
Follow the 12-round color and decrease pattern outlined in the basic pattern.

Mosaic Bags

If you’re ready for a new challenge, try making a mosaic pattern on the felted purse in Figure 11-13. Even though it looks complicated, if you can knit a stripe and slip a stitch, you’re ready to try it. I’ve included both written directions and a chart for the pinbox mosaic in this pattern (see Chapter 7 for the basics on mosaics and for other mosaic patterns that can be easily substituted in this pattern); both sets of instructions give the same information, but some people find one easier to follow than the other.
The pattern for this bag presents you with lots of options. The featured pattern is for the mosaic purse, but if you want your bag striped or plain, check out the later variations. A plain purse can be stunning if you adorn it with a brooch, knitted flowers, or needle-felted designs. Craft stores and yarn shops carry beautiful ready-made handles that can jazz up any bag. Or you can knit the handle with the bag. This pattern gives you both options.
The felted mosaic purse and tote.
Figure 11-13:
The felted mosaic purse and tote.
You can use colors on this mosaic bag in many ways. I’ve chosen two shades of the main color (dark brown and lighter brown) and two shades of the contrasting color (yellow and gold) for the pinbox mosaic. You can easily choose to use a single main color and two contrasting colors if you decide on a three-color mosaic pattern. Simpler still is sticking with just two colors. The results are fantastic any way you choose to do it!

Materials and vital statistics

Yarn: Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian highland wool); 220 yards (201 meters) per 100 grams
• Main color 1 (MC1): 2403 Dark Brown; 1 skein
• Main color 2 (MC2): 2411 Brown; 1 skein
• Contrasting color 1 (CC1): 7825 Gold; 1 skein
• Contrasting color 2 (CC2): 7827 Yellow; 1 skein Needles: US 10K (6.5 mm) circular needles, 24- or 36-inch length Other: One stitch marker; yarn needle to weave in ends
Size:
Approximate size before felting for a purse (tote):
Width: 16 (21) inches
• Height: 18 (21) inches (without handles)
• Depth: 5 inches
Approximate size after felting for a purse (tote):
Width: 9K(12) inches
Height: 8 (10^4) inches (without handles)
Depth: 3 inches
Felting is both art and science. Use the sizes given here as guidelines, but remember that your results may vary.
Gauge: 12 stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
This bag is worked in one piece. The bottom is worked back and forth in garter stitch, and from there, you pick up stitches around the rectangle that you’ve created and work in the round. When the bag is complete, you felt it in the washing machine.

Directions

With MC1, cast on 48 (64) sts.
Work 32 rows in garter stitch (knit all rows). There will be 16 garter ridges. Don’t cut the yarn.
With your 48 (64) sts still on the needles, continue with MC1 and pick up and knit 16 sts down the first short side, 48 (64) sts along the cast-on edge, and 16 sts along the second short side of the base. There will be 128 (160) sts on the needles. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round.

Switch to CC1 and knit 2 rounds.

Use the pinbox mosaic pattern presented here or any other 16-stitch mosaic pattern that you like (see Chapter 7 for some choices). I include the pinbox mosaic pattern information in the chart in Figure 11-14, and I also write it out. Use the method that’s easiest for you to follow. For each row, the stitches shown in the working color are worked, and the stitches shown in the other color are slipped. Each chart row represents two consecutive pattern rows.
When you’re working a mosaic pattern, always slip stitches purlwise.
Rounds 1 and 2: With MC1, *k15, slip 1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 3 and 4: With CC1, *slip 1, k13, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 5 and 6: With MC1, *k1, slip 1, k11, slip 1, k1, slip 1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 7 and 8: With CC1, *slip 1, k1, slip 1, k9, slip 1, k1, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 9 and 10: With MC1, *(k1, slip 1) 2 times, k7, (slip 1, k1) 2 times, slip 1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 11 and 12: With CC1, *(slip 1, k1) 2 times, slip 1, k5, (slip 1, k1) 3 times, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 13 and 14: With MC1, *(k1, slip 1) 3 times, k3, (slip 1, k1) 3 times, slip 1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 15 and 16: With CC1, *(slip 1, k1) 8 times, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 17 and 18: Repeat Rounds 13 and 14.
Rounds 19 and 20: Switch to CC2 and repeat Rounds 11 and 12.
Rounds 21 and 22: Repeat Rounds 9 and 10. Rounds 23 and 24: With CC2, repeat Rounds 7 and 8. Rounds 25 and 26: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6. Rounds 27 and 28: With CC2, repeat Rounds 3 and 4. Rounds 29 and 30: Repeat Rounds 1 and 2.
Rounds 31 and 32: With CC2, knit.
Rounds 33 and 34: Switch to MC2 and *k7, slip 1, k8, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 35 and 36: Switch to CC2 and *k6, slip 1, k1, slip 1, k7, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 37 and 38: Switch to MC2 and *k5, (slip 1, k1) 2 times, slip 1, k6, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 39 and 40: Switch to CC2 and *k4, (slip 1, k1) 3 times, slip 1, k5, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 41 and 42: Switch to MC2 and *k3, (slip 1, k1) 4 times, slip 1, k4, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 43 and 44: Switch to CC2 and *k2, (slip 1, k1) 5 times, slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 45 and 46: Switch to MC2 and *(k1, slip 1) 7 times, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 47 and 48: Switch to CC2 and *(slip 1, k1) 8 times, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 49 and 50: Repeat Rounds 45 and 46.
Rounds 51 and 52: Switch to CC1 and repeat Rounds 43 and 44.
Rounds 53 and 54: Repeat Rounds 41 and 42.
Rounds 55 and 56: With CC1, repeat Rounds 39 and 40.
Rounds 57 and 58: Repeat Rounds 37 and 38.
Rounds 59 and 60: With CC1, repeat Rounds 35 and 36.
Rounds 61 and 62: Repeat Rounds 33 and 34.
Rounds 63 and 64: With CC1, knit.
For the tote only, work Rounds 1-32 again before moving on to the next step.
For both purse and tote, work 4 more rounds with MC in stockinette stitch.
If you want to attach ready-made handles, bind off; you attach the handles after finishing and felting. If you want to knit in your handles, continue with the directions that follow. These knitted handles are made like big buttonholes. (See more on buttonholes in Chapter 10.)
Next round: K16 (22), bind off 16 (20) sts, k47 (59), (there are 48 (60) sts on the right needle after the last set of bound-off sts), bind off 16 (20) sts, knit to end of round.
Next round: Knit, casting on 16 (20) sts over each set of bound-off sts, using the cable cast-on (see Chapter 10). Be sure to turn your work so the WS is facing you as you cast on each set of stitches.
Knit 5 (7) more rounds, and then bind off. Weave in any ends.
Felt your bag in the washing machine. (You can find step by step instructions on felting in the appendix.) You’ll know your bag is done when it’s firm and you can no longer see the stitches. Your bag should be the approximate finished size that’s noted in the “Materials and vital statistics” section.
If you have purchased handles, you can attach them now. Follow any instructions provided with the handles or sew them on with a needle and heavy-duty sewing thread that matches the bag.
The pinbox mosaic pattern repeat presented in a chart.
Figure 11-14:
The pinbox mosaic pattern repeat presented in a chart.

Variation: Keeping your bag plain and simple

If you’d rather make a bag in a single color, knit the base and pick up stitches as outlined in the mosaic bag pattern. Begin working in the round and knit for 70 (90) rounds. If you have ready-made handles, bind off. If you want to knit handles, follow the directions given in the main pattern.
Felt your bag by following the instructions in the appendix. After felting, you can attach your handles and embellish your bag if desired.

Variation: Striping your bag

To work the purse or the tote with a stripe pattern, make the bottom of the bag as I describe in the mosaic pattern with MC1. Pick up stitches for the sides of the bag with MC1 as described in the mosaic pattern, and then knit 1 round. Note: This round doesn’t count as part of the stripe sequence.
Switch to CC1 (but don’t cut MC1) and knit 2 rows.
Knit 2 rows with MC1.
Repeat the previous 4 rounds until you’ve worked 3 stripes each of MC1 and CC1.
Cut MC1 and join MC2. Work 3 stripes each of CC1 and MC2.
Cut CC1 and join CC2. Work 3 stripes each of CC2 and MC2. Cut MC2 and join MC1. Work 3 stripes each of CC2 and MC1. Repeat this stripe sequence until you’ve knit 72 (96) rounds.
If you’re adding ready-made handles, bind off and felt your bag. If you’re making the knit-in handle, stop striping and, using MC1 only, follow the directions in the basic pattern. Follow the directions for the mosaic bag on finishing and felting.
When you alternate colors, twist the two yarns around one another at the beginning of each round to keep things tidy and to prevent any gaps. Chapter 8 covers the basics on changing colors as you knit.

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