Geoscience Reference
In-Depth Information
1 COLLAPSING WAVE
2 SURGING WAVE
1
45
1
2
20
10
0.1
5
3
2
3 PLUNGING
WAVE
4 SPILLING WAVE
4
1
0.01
0.5
0.25
0
0 0.6 1.2
Wave height/water depth
Figure 17.4 Principal types of breaking wave and their associated beach slope and water depth.
Source: In part after Carter (1988)
Plate 17.1 Wave refraction, surging breakers and modern rock platform around Old Nab headland, Yorkshire coast. Waves
approach the headland almost head-on but are refracted in the bay.
Photo: Ken Addison
 
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