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keen sense of smell. You might want to mask your scent by holding your trap materials in the
smoke of a fire before setting them or by rubbing them with crushed, nonpoisonous leaves.
Smoke on your hands can also cover your scent when you handle the traps. Baited traps are
usually effective in semi-open areas. Baitless traps are best set in animal runs where vegetation
and natural features force animals to follow a narrow path. Many animals are smarter than you
might think, so make traps look as natural as possible. Leave bark on branches, and mask
carved areas by darkening them with smoke or smearing dirt on the fresh cuts.
There are many designs for traps and snares, but most are variations on a few basic themes
that are illustrated as follows. Traps typically try to strangle, dangle, or mangle the prey.
Figure-Four Deadfall
This classic deadfall trap does not use cordage and can be made to any size (see fig. 7-30 ) .
Three sticks are carved and stacked to support a massive weight, such as a large rock, log,
group of lashed logs, and so on. An upright stake is driven into the ground to support the entire
mechanism. The bait bar is notched in the center and at the far end. The center notch hooks a
flat on the middle zone of the upright stake, while the end notch of the bait bar catches the
locking arm. A notch in the locking arm pivots on the chamfered end of the upright stake. The
deadfall weight is balanced against the locking arm, dropping the deadfall weight when the bait
bar is tugged. To figure the proper spots for notching the various parts, lay them flat on the
ground and mark the notch locations.
Figure 7-30. Figure-four deadfall.
Rolling Snare
There are numerous variations on the rolling snare (see fig. 7-31 ) . Baitless varieties are placed
next to an animal run, where a passing animal will stick its nose through the snare noose and
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