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Figure 2.2 Segment of a Black Sea record. Surface elevations with wave breaking marked by visual
observation of whitecaps (dots) and by means of the wavelet analysis (vertical bars). Figure is repro-
duced from
Liu & Babanin
(
2004
) (copyright of Copernicus Publications on behalf of the European
Geosciences Union)
0.3
0.25
0.2
0.15
0
0.05
0.1
0.15
0.2
0.25
0.3
0.35
0.4
0.45
0.5
ε
Figure 2.3 Properties of individual waves in the range of frequencies
f
=
f
p
±
0
.
3
f
p
of a Black Sea
record with
f
p
=
0
.
25 Hz (Rec. 244,
Table 5.1
). Frequency (inverse period)
f
versus steepness
.
+-allwaves,
∗
- those waves with
>
0
.
08, boxes - those waves exhibiting whitecapping. Solid
lines show peak frequency
f
p
=
0
.
25 Hz (horizontal) and the breaking threshold
=
0
.
08 (vertical)
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