Geoscience Reference
In-Depth Information
is intended to describe how the directional spreading of the wave spectrum can poten-
tially be controlled through directionality of the dissipation term. These moderate alter-
ations of directional-spreading dissipation features do not impact the frequency-distributed
behaviour of the source terms in any way.
Following Tsagareli ( 2009 ), the directional-spreading function was developed as a super-
position of two Gaussian functions. According to the experimental results of Young &
Babanin ( 2006a )(see Figures 7.9 , 7.11 ), the angle of separation between the maxima
and the main wave-propagation direction can vary. Therefore, the new directional func-
tion for the dissipation term was provided with sufficient flexibility to modify the shape in
both directional and frequency spaces. The new directional-spreading function includes the
ability to symmetrically shift the locations of the directional peaks, to alter the magnitude
of the trough between the maxima, to change the cross-sectional shapes as a function of
frequency, and to vary with different wind-forcing conditions.
The spreading function V takes the form
V
A
2
(
f
)
exp
(
p
+ θ p )
)θ<
0,
U 10
c p
θ,
f
,
=
(7.56)
2
A
(
f
)
exp
(
p
θ p )
0
where p
=
p
(
f
,
U 10 /
c p )
is the parameter that determines the depth of the middle trough,
θ
is the angle (in radians) relative to the main propagation direction of waves,
θ p
=
θ p (
f
,
U 10 /
c p )
is the angle (in radians) of the maximum dissipation rates relative to this
main direction.
The term A
is the inverse integral of the directional spread defined in (5.33) above. In
order to avoid confusion, however, it has to be stressed that the directional wave-spectrum
spreading function and the directional dissipation-spreading function are different proper-
ties. For clarity, here the normalised dissipation directional spread will be designated D
rather than K which symbol is reserved for the function of normalised wave directional
spectrum in (5.34) . That is, we used
(
f
)
2
D
=
exp
(
p
+ θ p )
)
(7.57)
in (7.56) . The normalisation condition π
π
V
(
f
,θ)
d
θ =
1 is then satisfied; and if the angle
θ p =
0, the directional spreading has a unimodal shape.
Now, as the angle
θ p increases, the lobes of the directional spreading function move
further apart, enhancing the depth of the trough between them. Increasing the parameter
p reduces the width of the lobes, increasing the depth of the trough at the same time. As
a result, variations of parameters p and
θ p lead to different directional spreading of the
dissipation which allows the model to control the directional wave spectrum, a property
which has proved difficult in previous modelling tests (see e.g. Banner & Young , 1994 ).
Figure 7.17 demonstrates the resulting directional spreading function V
(θ,
f
,
U 10 /
c p )
(7.56) with different values for the parameters p and
θ p . For convenience of compari-
son, all the directional spreading functions were normalised by the maximum value at the
angle
θ p , i.e. D
=
V
p ,
f
,
U 10 /
c p ) =
1.
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