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Figure 1.4 Ocean swells are gently sloped former wind-waves propagated outside the storm area.
They have low steepness and do not break. Image © iStockphoto.com/Jason Ganser
Figure 1.5 Large wave breaking in deep water. Distance from the mean water level to the lowest
deck of the Fulmar Platform in the North Sea is 21m. The photo is courtesy of George Forristal
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