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10 0
10 −1
10 −2
10 −3
10 −4
10 −5
10 −6
10 −7
10 −8
10 −9
10 −1
10 0
10 1
f, Hz
Figure 5.29 Illustration. JONSWAP spectrum (2.7) is shown with solid line (peak enhancement of
γ = 7 is chosen for clarity), zero-breaking saturation level with dashed line, 5% breaking level
with dotted line and 100% breaking level with dash-dotted line. The breaking limits are drawn qual-
itatively for illustration purposes only and must not be used for estimates. Figure is reproduced
from Babanin & van der Westhuysen ( 2008 )
©
American Meteorological Society. Reprinted with
permission
σ threshold can be established,
the dimensional threshold can then be obtained at every frequency:
Since a universal dimensionless saturation-threshold value
2 g 2
4 σ(
f
) threshold
f 5
F
(
f
) threshold =
.
(5.37)
(
2
π)
The meaning of the dimensional threshold is illustrated in Figure 5.29 .
In this figure, JONSWAP-spectrum parameterisation ( 2.7 , solid line) and arbitrary
breaking limits are used for illustration purposes, but the real spectra and breaking threshold
exhibit qualitatively similar behaviour ( Babanin & Young , 2005 ; Babanin et al. , 2007c ;
Babanin & van der Westhuysen , 2008 ). The dashed line indicates the dimensional threshold
(5.37) , and the dash-dotted line is the imagined ultimate spectral limit in saturation terms
- i.e. the spectral density cannot physically reach over this limit because the steepness of
waves will be such that all the waves will be breaking ( Babanin et al. , 2007c ; Stiassnie ,
2010 ). If the spectral density drops below the dashed level, there will be no breaking in the
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