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Figure 5.26 Wave power spectrum and breaking probability versus wave frequency
f
.(a)Wave
power spectrum
P
(
f
)
; (b) Wave-breaking probability
b
T
(
f
)
(5.28)
. In (a), probability (b) is
shown, normalised by the spectrum-peak value. Figure is reproduced from
Manasseh
et al.
(
2006
)
©
American Meteorological Society. Reprinted with permission
with the set of central frequencies being
f
c
f
p
=
0
.
8
,
1
.
0
,
1
.
2
,
1
.
4
,
1
.
6
,
1
.
8
,
2
.
0
.
(5.30)
Shown in
Figure 5.26
is the wave power spectrum created from the surface-elevation
data, and the breaking probability,
b
T
as a function of wave frequency for a 19
swind
speed (rec. 5 of
Table 5.2
). The breaking distribution in the top panel of
Figure 5.26
was
normalised so that it matches the spectral density at the peak frequency. This was done
purely to make comparison of the two curves easier. The
b
T
(
.
8m
/
)
curve in the bottom panel
is bracketed by two lines which are the calculated 95% confidence intervals on
b
T
(
f
)
(
Walpole & Meyers
,
1978
). Although the
b
T
curve only covers a fraction of the frequency
spectrum, it is clear that the downward trend in breaking probability with wave frequency
is statistically significant.
Figure 5.27
presents more derived analysis made possible by the passive acoustic method.
Even though this figure was only intended by
Manasseh
et al.
(
2006
) to demonstrate the
potential of the passive acoustic method, it is worth pointing out some apparent features of
f
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