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Figure 5.24 Combined log-log plot of the observed dominant wave breaking probability
b
T
versus
the modified significant peak steepness adjusted for the water depth
(
−
0
.
055
)(
1
+
H
s
/
h
)
(5.25)
.
Four diverse field sites are shown: Black Sea (BS), Southern Ocean (SO), Lake Washington (LW) (all
deep water), and Lake George (LG) (finite depth). The legend shows the correlation coefficient based
on a linear best fit in the log-log domain together with the parameterisation and the
±
90% confidence
limits. Figure is reproduced from
Babanin
et al.
(
2001
) by permission of American Geophysical
Union
For practical purposes, when information on the wind forcing and shear is not available,
a simplified parameterisation can be used, in terms of wave and water-depth characteristics
only:
33
+
0
.
25
−
1
+
37
.
9
−
2
.
b
T
=
85
.
2
[
(
peak
−
0
.
055
)(
1
+
H
s
/
d
)
]
.
(5.25)
0
.
21
26
.
This dependence is shown in
Figure 5.24
and provides a reasonable linear correlation of
0.81 within the range of the data available.
Now, the comparison of this dominant-wave spectral breaking probability with the
distance to breaking of the monochromatic wave trains
(5.10)
can be conducted. Estab-
lishing a link between parameterisations of the breaking probability in terms of individual-
wave steepness and in terms of spectral steepness, even if approximate, has a significant
practical value.
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