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In-Depth Information
Table 5.2
Summary of Lake George data used for the breaking-probability analysis.
Here,
f
p
is the spectral peak frequency,
H
s
is significant wave height,
U
10
is wind speed at
10m
,
u
o
is the shear
parameter defined by the ratio of the surface drift
u
s
to wave orbit
u
o
velocity,
f
p
=
peak
is the significant steepness of the spectral peak,
shear
=
u
s
/
U
10
f
p
g
1
2
U
10
c
p
is the non-dimensional peak frequency or the parameter of the
inverse wave age,
d
is water depth and
b
T
is the spectral peak breaking probability
(2.3)
.
=
π
f
p
Run
f
p
,Hz
H
s
,m
U
10
,m/s
peak
shear
H
s
/
d
b
T
1
311501.oc7
0.48
0.21
11.0
0.078
0.509
0.672
0.222
0.016
2
311615.oc7
0.48
0.17
8.5
0.059
0.474
0.517
0.178
0.007
3
311638.oc7
0.49
0.17
9.4
0.062
0.475
0.581
0.183
0.005
4
311757.oc7
0.42
0.35
17.1
0.114
0.496
0.977
0.337
0.375
5
311823.oc7
0.36
0.45
19.8
0.120
0.513
1.035
0.410
0.600
6
311845.oc7
0.33
0.40
15.0
0.096
0.538
0.797
0.372
0.388
7
311908.oc7
0.35
0.37
12.9
0.101
0.500
0.721
0.380
0.279
8
311930.oc7
0.38
0.34
12.8
0.107
0.436
0.723
0.347
0.265
9
311958.oc7
0.39
0.33
11.5
0.100
0.457
0.646
0.324
0.210
10
312021.oc7
0.40
0.39
13.7
0.132
0.397
0.761
0.365
0.303
11
312048.oc7
0.37
0.37
13.1
0.112
0.390
0.718
0.348
0.182
12
312111.oc7
0.40
0.25
9.3
0.074
0.434
0.536
0.290
0.087
13
312207.oc7
0.48
0.20
8.5
0.083
0.399
0.532
0.227
0.047
14
312232.oc7
0.50
0.22
9.0
0.100
0.399
0.568
0.239
0.077
15
312254.oc7
0.49
0.22
9.1
0.092
0.380
0.565
0.240
0.058
16
312316.oc7
0.49
0.21
8.6
0.084
0.384
0.532
0.228
0.086
17
312339.oc7
0.50
0.21
8.6
0.090
0.400
0.541
0.230
0.060
18
010004.no7
0.52
0.22
9.8
0.101
0.396
0.629
0.240
0.113
19
010030.no7
0.48
0.24
10.7
0.106
0.412
0.665
0.266
0.119
20
010055.no7
0.46
0.26
11.8
0.105
0.414
0.723
0.285
0.165
21
010140.no7
0.43
0.28
12.6
0.096
0.461
0.759
0.303
0.157
22
010204.no7
0.40
0.31
13.3
0.105
0.497
0.782
0.332
0.192
23
010226.no7
0.40
0.35
13.9
0.122
0.461
0.810
0.370
0.257
24
010248.no7
0.39
0.35
14.8
0.115
0.479
0.850
0.364
0.271
25
151238.de7
0.48
0.19
11.1
0.067
0.573
0.716
0.227
0.009
26
151301.de7
0.45
0.21
11.8
0.071
0.524
0.737
0.250
0.021
Huang
(
1986
) previously used a similar parameter, the significant wave slope, in his mod-
elling of breaking influence on upper-ocean dynamics. Values of
peak
for the data records
of this topic are given in
Tables 5.1
and
5.2
.
Figure 5.18
shows the number of breakers per wave period as a function of the dominant
wave steepness
in the figure, for the Black Sea data
(left panel) and Lake Washington data (right panel). Two conclusions may be drawn from
these results. Firstly, these figures show that steeper dominant waves have higher breaking
probabilities and these are well-correlated with the spectral peak steepness parameter
peak
(5.17)
which is denoted as
peak
.
Secondly, there is strong visual evidence of a threshold value for
peak
around 0.05-0.06
which determines whether dominant wave breaking occurs or not. This level is consistent
with the threshold level of
=
IMS
∼
0
.
1
(5.10)
-
(5.11)
reported by
Babanin
et al.
(
2007a
)
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