Geoscience Reference
In-Depth Information
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f, Hz
kH
Figure 5.11 As in
Figure 5.8
, for the five steepest breakers
the shape of the incipient breaker. The dependence of the local frequency on steepness,
which was noticed previously, is now very clear (third subplot).
Some marginal dependences between the skewness and asymmetry of the breaker and
the steepness and skewness of the following wave (first three subplots of the third row)
are visible. The frequencies of this wave and the wave preceding the breaker are also cor-
related, and tend to increase together (bottom left subplot). Some correlations are visible
between the skewness of this wave and the steepness of the wave preceding the breaker
(first subplot in the middle row of
Figure 5.12
), and the asymmetry of the breaker and the
steepness of the preceding wave (first subplot in the bottom row of
Figure 5.12
). Together
with the correlation of the skewness of the breaker and the steepness of the preceding wave
noticed before (last subplot of the middle row), these properties likely indicate interactions
between the three waves, one of which is now at the point of breaking.
5.1.3 Laboratory investigation of wind influence
Following the same approach as in the numerical simulations in
Section 4.1
,wenowinves-
tigate the influence of wind on nonlinear wave evolution and breaking onset. As in the
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