Geoscience Reference
In-Depth Information
1
1
1
2.2
0.5
0.5
0.5
2
0
0
1.8
0
1.6
−0.5
−0.5
−0.5
1.4
−1
−1
−1
0
0.5
1
0
0.5
1
0
0.5
1
−1
0
1
kH
kH
kH
S
k
1
1
1
1
0.5
0.5
0.5
0
0
0.5
−0.5
−0.5
0
−1
−1
0
0
0.5
1
0
0.5
1
−1
0
1
0
0.5
1
kH
kH
S
k
kH
1
1
1
0.5
0.5
0
0
0.5
−0.5
−0.5
−1
−1
0
0
0.5
1
−1
0
1
0
0.5
1
kH
S
k
kH
Figure 5.9 Laboratory statistics of the wave preceding the incipient breaker (20 steepest breakers).
IMF
=
1
.
8 Hz, IMS
=
0
.
30,
U
/
c
=
0. (top left panel) Skewness versus steepness. (top line, second
left panel) Asymmetry versus steepness. (top line, second right panel) Frequency (inverse period)
versus steepness. IMF
=
1
.
8 Hz is shown with solid line. (top line, right panel) Asymmetry versus
skewness. (middle line, left panel) Skewness of the wave following the breaker versus steepness of
the wave preceding the breaker. (middle line, second left panel) Asymmetry of the wave following the
breaker versus steepness of the wave preceding the breaker. (middle line, second right panel) Asym-
metry of the wave following the breaker versus skewness of the wave preceding the breaker. (middle
line, right panel) Skewness of the breaker versus steepness of the wave preceding the breaker. (bot-
tom line, left panel) Asymmetry of the breaker versus steepness of the wave preceding the breaker.
(bottom line, second left panel) Asymmetry of the breaker versus skewness of the wave preceding the
breaker. (bottom line, right panel) Steepness of the breaker versus steepness of the wave preceding
the breaker
in
Figure 5.6
and are repeated here for consistency of comparisons with other figures and
analysis of other wave-shape characteristics. In these three figures, the characteristics of
the five steepest waves are plotted. As discussed above, transition to breaking happens very
rapidly, and breaking onset and its location may be somewhat modulated due to, for exam-
ple, uneven numbers of waves in the nonlinear oscillations. Thus, we would expect that it
is the highest waves measured that would be closest to the ultimate limiting characteristics
of the incipient breaker and its following and preceding counterparts.
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