Geoscience Reference
In-Depth Information
1
1
1
2
0.5
0
A
s
0
A
s
S
k
f, Hz
1.5
S
k
kH
kH
kH
0
−1
−1
0
0.5
1
0
0.5
1
0
0.5
1
0
0.5
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1
1
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1
0.5
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0.5
0
A
sf
S
kf
S
kf
A
sf
S
k
S
k
kH
kH
0
−1
0
−1
0
0.5
1
0
0.5
1
0
0.5
1
0
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1
kH
1
1
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1
S
kp
0
S
kp
0
A
sp
0
0
A
sp
S
k
S
k
kH
kH
−1
−1
−1
−1
0
0.5
1
0
0.5
1
0
0.5
1
0
0.5
1
kH
1
1
2
2
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0
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1.5
−1
−1
−1
0
1
−1
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1
1.5
2
1.5
2
A
s
A
s
f, Hz
f, Hz
Figure 5.7 Laboratory statistics for the incipient breaker (20 steepest breakers). IMF
=
1
.
8Hz,
IMS
=
0
.
30,
U
/
c
=
0. (top left panel) Skewness versus steepness. (top line, second left panel)
Asymmetry versus steepness. (top line, second right panel) Frequency (inverse period) versus steep-
ness. IMF
=
.
8 Hz is shown with solid line. (top line, right panel) Asymmetry versus skewness.
(second top line, left panel) Skewness of the following wave versus steepness of the breaker. (sec-
ond top line, second left panel) Asymmetry of the following wave versus steepness of the breaker.
(second top line, second right panel) Skewness of the following wave versus skewness of the breaker.
(second top line, right panel) Asymmetry of the following wave versus skewness of the breaker. (sec-
ond bottom line, left panel) Skewness of the preceding wave versus steepness of the breaker. (second
bottom line, second left panel) Asymmetry of the preceding wave versus steepness of the breaker.
(second bottom line, second right panel) Skewness of the preceding wave versus skewness of the
breaker. (second bottom line, right panel) Asymmetry of the preceding wave versus skewness of
the breaker. (bottom line, left panel) Asymmetry of the following wave versus asymmetry of the
breaker. (bottom line, second left panel) Asymmetry of the preceding wave versus asymmetry of
the breaker. (bottom line, second right panel) Frequency of the following wave versus frequency of
the breaker. IMF
=
1
.
8 Hz is shown with solid lines. (bottom right panel) Frequency of the preceding
wave versus frequency of the breaker. IMF
=
1
.
8 Hz is shown with solid lines
1
physical shape is not random and should exhibit some characteristic properties leading
to breaking. The skewness and asymmetry of the following wave, however, do not corre-
late with the skewness and asymmetry of the breaker (third and fourth panels of the second
row, first panel of the bottom row).
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