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0.0
-0.5
-1.0
-1.5
ok=0.16
-2.0
0
20
40
60
80
Time
1.0
0.5
0.0
ok=0.16
-0.5
0
20
40
60
80
Time
0.0
-0.2
-0.4
-0.6
ok=0.16
-0.8
0
20
40
60
80
Time
Figure 4.1 Numerical simulation of evolution of a wave with IMS = 0 . 16 to the point of breaking
(no wind). Time scale is in wave periods. (top) Wave slope (steepness where minus sign signifies the
forward slope); (middle) skewness; (bottom) asymmetry
this value of skewness at the onset of breaking. The asymmetry also oscillates through
the simulation and reaches the experimentally observed breaking magnitude of A s
0
.
5
(i.e. Caulliez , 2002 ).
Therefore, the inherent instability of nonlinear waves leads to a breaking even in the
absence of wind forcing. In such a scenario, the wave cannot gain energy to grow on average.
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