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night. In addition to steaks, it also offers homemade pastas, pies and a variety of em-
panadas.
Viva la Pepa CAFE $
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(Amado 833; mains AR$60-75; lunch & dinner) Decked out in children's drawings, this
cheerful cafe specializes in crepes, but also offers great sandwiches with homemade
bread (try the chicken with apple and blue cheese), fresh juice and gourds of mate .
Mi Ranchito ARGENTINE $$$
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( 490540; Moyano 1089; mains US$90-110; noon-3:30 & 8pm-midnight) Inspired and in-
timate, with the owners themselves cooking and serving oversized osso buco, delicious
braided pastas stuffed with king crab, divine salads and sweetbreads with wilted spinach
on toast. For dessert, chocolat fondant or passionfruit semifreddo are both worth the cal-
orie hit, and more. In a tiny brick pioneer house with space for few. Reserve a few days
ahead.
Pura Vida ARGENTINE $$$
( 493356; Libertador 1876; mains AR$65-100; dinner Thu-Tue; ) Featuring the rare
treat of Argentine home cooking, this offbeat, low-lit eatery is a must. Its longtime own-
ers are found cooking up buttery spiced chicken pot pies and filling wine glasses. For ve-
getarians, brown rice and wok veggies or various salads are satisfying. Don't skip the
decadent chocolate brownie with ice cream, steeped in warm berry sauce. Reserve ahead.
La Tablita PARRILLA $$$
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(Rosales 24; mains AR$80-120; lunch Thu-Tue, dinner daily) Steak and spit-roasted lamb are
the stars at this satisfying parrilla, popular beyond measure for good reason. For average
appetites a half-steak will do, rounded out with a good malbec, fresh salad or garlic fries.
El Cucharón ARGENTINE $$$
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(9 de Julio 145; mains AR$80-120; lunch & dinner) This sophisticated eatery, tucked away in
a small space a few blocks off the main street, is a relatively undiscovered gem and an
excellent place to try the regional classic cazuela de cordero (lamb stew). The trout with
lemon sauce and grilled vegetables is delicious, too.
 
 
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