Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Park Ranger Office ( 493024, 493004; pnlgzonanorte@apn.gov.ar; donations welcome;
9am-8pm Dec-Feb, 10am-5pm Mar-Nov) Many daytime buses stop for a short bilingual orient-
ation at this visitor center, just before the bridge over the Río Fitz Roy. Park rangers dis-
tribute a map and town directory and do a good job of explaining Parque Nacional Los
Glaciares' ecological issues. Climbing documentaries are shown at 2pm daily - great for
rainy days. Open 10am-5pm low season.
Puesto Sanitario (
493033; AM De Agostini 70) Provides basic health services.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
TREKKING INTO CHILE
Gonzo travelers can skirt the Southern Ice Field on foot to get from Argentina's
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares and El Chaltén to Villa O'Higgins, the last stop on
Chile's Carretera Austral. This one- to three-day trip can be completed between
November and March. Bring all provisions, Chilean currency, plus your passport
and rain gear. Boat delays are not unheard of, so be prepared to stay overnight and
pack enough food. Here's the nuts and bolts:
» Grab the shuttle bus from El Chaltén to the south shore of Lago del Desierto,
37km away (AR$150, one hour).
» Usually a ferry travels to the north shore of Lago del Desierto (AR$150, 4½ hours)
but at the time of writing this service was temporarily unavailable. Another option
is to hike the coast (15km, five hours). Pass through Argentine customs and im-
migration here. Camping is allowed.
» From the north shore of Lago del Desierto, trek or ride to Laguna Larga (1½
hours). Camping is not allowed.
» Trek or ride to Laguna Redonda (1½ hours). Camping is not allowed.
» Trek or ride to Candelario Mansilla (two hours). Candelario Mansilla has lodging
in a family farmhouse, guided treks and horse rental (riding or pack horse per day
CH$20,000). Pass through Chilean customs and immigration here.
» Take the Hielo Sur catamaran (CH$42,000, four hours) from Candelario Mansilla,
on the south edge of Lago O'Higgins, to Puerto Bahamondez. Trips go one to three
times a week, usually on Saturday with some Monday or Wednesday departures. A
bus goes from Puerto Bahamondez to Villa O'Higgins (CH$2100).
In Villa O'Higgins, El Mosco ( 0672-431819; patagoniaelmosco.com; Carretera Austral Km1240;
campsites per person CH$5000, dm CH$9,000, d CH$40,000, s/d without bathroom CH$18,000/
30,000) has good lodging options. For Chilean ferry information, consult Hielo Sur (
0672-431821/822; www.villaohiggins.com ) in O'Higgins.
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