Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 491109; www.vivaelviento.com ; Av 11 de Julio 447; mains AR$85-130; 9am-9pm Oct-Apr;
) This stylish cafe and restaurant serves up strong coffee and warm service. The menu of-
fers fresh salads, pastas, excellent steak in pepper sauce and locally farmed Chubut trout.
Service is attentive and the kitchen is willing to make adaptations for vegetarians.
Information
Banco de Santa Cruz (Av 11 de Julio 531) Has a 24-hour ATM.
Post Office (Gregores 19)
Tourist Information Office ( 491261; www.losantiguos.tur.ar ; Av 11 de Julio 446;
8am-8pm) Helpful, with a map of town and farms selling fresh produce. The website has
comprehensive lodging and transportation information in multiple languages.
Getting There & Around
The gradual paving of RN40 may alter transport options and times, so make sure you get
current information.
Buses go several times daily to nearby Perito Moreno (AR$52, 40 minutes). Those in a
rush to move on will find more transport links there to other parts of Patagonia. For
Chile, La Unión ( 491078; cnr Perito Moreno & Patagonia Argentina) crosses the border to
Chile Chico (AR$27) on weekdays at noon.
From mid-November to March, Chaltén Travel ( www.chaltentravel.com ) goes to El
Chaltén on even-numbered days at 9am, stopping first in Perito Moreno.
A Chilean ferry run by Naviera Sotramin ( 56-0672-237958; Chile Chico; passenger/
car CH$200/17,700) crosses Lago General Carrera daily from Chile Chico to Puerto Ibañez
almost daily, a big shortcut to Coyhaique. If driving, make your reservation a week in ad-
vance and arrive 30 minutes before departure time. Alternatively, it's possible to continue
overland around the lake's southern shore to Carretera Austral and Coyhaique.
Leiva Remise (
491228) taxi service is useful when it's pouring rain and you need a
ride to your hotel.
ESTANCIAS IN PATAGONIA
Most assume estancias(ranches) are all about livestock, but these offbeat offer-
ings prove otherwise.
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