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book tours for guests and fire up the grill for barbecues twice a week. Adding to the ap-
peal are comfortable beds and the possibility of glimpsing a breaching whale from the
hostel balcony.
El Retorno HOSTEL $
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( 445-6044; www.elretornohostel.com.ar ; Mitre 798; dm/tw AR$95/320; ) Run by the
indefatigable Gladys, a den mother to travelers from all over. Besides dorms and snug
doubles, there's a solarium, barbecue area and bike rental.
Posada del Catalejo HOSTEL $
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( 447-5224; www.posadadelcatalejo.com.ar ; Mitre 46; dm AR$100, d/tr AR$360/400, d without
bathroom AR$310; ) Located in an old-fashioned building that makes the place feel
more like a budget B&B, with cool wall murals. Doubles are considerably nicer than the
worn-out dorms. Staff are welcoming and breakfast includes homemade bread and medi-
alunas (croissants).
Camping ACA CAMPGROUND $
( 445-2952; info@acamadryn.com.ar; Camino al Indio; s/d campsites AR$65/95; closed May-
Aug) These 800 gravel campsites are sheltered by trees to break the incessant wind. Al-
though there are no cooking facilities, some snacks (and sometimes prepared meals) are
available. To get there from downtown, city bus 2 goes within 500m of the campground;
get off at the last stop (La Universidad).
El Gualicho HOSTEL $$$
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( 445-4163; www.elgualicho.com.ar ; Marcos A Zar 480; dm/d/tr/q AR$100/440/504/560;
) This sleek, contempo hostel provides very stylish digs, though mattresses are mys-
teriously cheap quality. We love the ample common spaces, with billiards and ham-
mocks, but being truly massive (with 120 beds) makes it somewhat impersonal. Doubles
have TV. Bikes are available for rent and a massive activity board keeps you posted.
La Posada Hotel INN $$$
( 447-4087; www.la-posada.com.ar ; Mathews 2951; d/superior US$140/$168; ) This
modern inn amid rolling green lawns offers a quiet alternative to lodging in town. Its
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