Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Parque Archaeologico Colo Michi-Co
This small archaeological site features one of the most important collections of Pe-
huenche rock art in Patagonia. There are over 600 examples here, carved with
symbolic figures and abstract designs. Getting to the site without a private vehicle
is tricky. Buses leave Chos Malal at 2pm daily for the village of Varvarco (AR$80,
three hours). From there, it's 9km south on the RP39 to the Escuela Colo Michi-Co
(buses will drop you off), where you'll see a signpost leading to the park, an 8km
walk away. Bring everything - there's nothing out here.
If all that walking doesn't excite you, contact Señora La Gallega ( 02948-421329)
in Varvarco - there aren't any remises(taxis) there, but the señora should be able
to hook you up with a car and driver, charging around AR$12 per kilometer, plus
waiting time. Hitchhiking is common practice in the area, but be prepared for long
waits.
Aguas Calientes
These excellent natural outdoor hot springs located at the foot of the Volcán
Domuyo are spread over 20 sq km and feature three main sites. The main one at
Villa Aguas Calientes is suitable for swimming; Las Olletas is a collection of bub-
bling mud pits and Los Tachos are geysers, spurting up to heights of 2m. The site is
40km north of Varvarco, where the last public transport terminates. If you don't
have your own wheels and can get to Varvarco on your own, you can ask about hir-
ing a driver with Señora La Gallega.
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North along the Ruta Nacional 40
Following the RN40 north from Chos Malal gives you more wild desert scenery, tiny
windswept towns and expansive, empty vistas. Despite what many will tell you, there is
public transportation along this route. Transportes Leader ( in Buta Ranquil
02948-493268; cnr Malvinas & Jadull) runs minibuses between Buta Ranquil and San Rafael,
Monday to Saturday (AR$231). There's a regular bus service from Neuquén and Chos
Malal to Buta Ranquil, where you may get stuck for the night. There's no real reason to
be here, but there are a couple of cheap hotels, one nice one, and enough restaurant-cafes
to keep you from starving.
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