Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
a lonko(chief) and in times of war families would unite to elect a toqui(axe-bearer)
to lead them.
The role of machi(shaman) was and still is an important one in Mapuche society.
It is usually filled by a woman, whose responsibilities included performing cere-
monies for curing diseases, warding off evil, dreamwork, and influencing weather,
harvests, social interactions. The machiwas also well schooled in the use of medi-
cinal herbs but, as Mapuche access to land and general biodiversity in the region
has decreased, this knowledge is being lost.
Estimates of how many Mapuche live in Argentina vary according to the source.
The official census puts the number at around 300,000, while the Mapuche claim
that the real figure is closer to 500,000.
Both in Chile and Argentina, the Mapuche live in humble circumstances in rural
settings, or leave the land to find work in big cities. It is estimated that there are
still 200,000 fluent Mapudungun speakers in Chile, where nominal efforts are
made to revive the language in the education system. No such official program has
been instituted in Argentina and, while exact numbers are not known, it is feared
that the language here may soon become extinct.
Apart from loss of language, the greatest threat to Mapuche culture is the loss of
land, a process that has been under way ever since their lands were 'redistributed'
after the Conquest of the Desert and many Mapuche were relocated to reserves -
often the lowest-quality land, without any spiritual significance to them. As with
many indigenous peoples, the Mapuche have a special spiritual relationship with
the land, believing that certain rocks, mountains, lakes and so on have a particular
spiritual meaning.
Despite a relatively well-organized land-rights campaign, the relocation contin-
ues today, as Mapuche lands are routinely reassigned to large commercial in-
terests in the oil, cattle and forestry industries. Defiant to the end, the Mapuche
don't look like fading away any time soon. They see their cultural survival as in-
trinsically linked to economic independence and Mapuche-owned and -operated
businesses are scattered throughout the Lake District.
Getting There & Around
Exploring the area is tough without a car, though hitchhiking is definitely feasible in
summer.
Destinos Patagonicos
( 02942-498067; Centro Comercial)
is the representative
for Albus, the only bus company currently serving the village. There are daily buses to
Zapala (AR$159, 4½ hours), Neuquén (AR$254, seven hours) and Aluminé (AR$30, one
hour).
