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AR$100/200) . It's freezing in winter. Buses run here from Catamarca via Belén at
6.15 am Wednesdays & Fridays (12 to 15 hours, AR$150), returning at 10am on
Mondays and Fridays.
Sleeping & Eating
Fredy Hostal GUESTHOUSE $
( 461230; www.amarillasinternet.com/fredyhostal ; Av Calchaquí 461; s/d/tr AR$120/170/210;
) One of a handful of cheap places on the main road through town, this is hospit-
able and features appealing rustic rooms around a patio with cactus garden. Air-con is a
little extra.
Hotel Belén HOTEL $$$
( 461501; www.belencat.com.ar ; cnr Belgrano & Cubas; s/d AR$310/410, sup s/d AR$360/470;
) A surprising presence in town, this stylish hotel has dark, comfortable
rooms featuring exposed rock bathrooms, indigenous art, an archaeological collection
and very comfortable beds. If you can ignore a few creaks and quirks - sound travels
way too easily between bathrooms, service is patchy and not everything works all the
time - it's a very characterful stay at a decent price.
1900 ARGENTINE $
( 461100; Belgrano 391; mains AR$45-60; 12:30-3pm & 9pm-1:30am) Beyond-the-call ser-
vice is the key to this highly enjoyable restaurant a block down from the plaza. It's very
popular, but it hates to turn people away, so a Tetris-like reshuffling of tables is a con-
stant feature. Prices are more than fair, and there are a number of large platters designed
to be shared. Well-mixed salads and juicy brochettes are highlights.
Shopping
There's a marquee off the plaza with a number of artesanía stalls selling ponchos,
camelid-wool clothing and foot-trodden local wine. For more upmarket woven goods,
Familia Avar Saracho (
461091; avarsaracho@hotmail.com; Roca 144;
10am-11pm) has
reasonable prices and arranges shipping.
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