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at this top-of-the-town hotel. A good breakfast, afternoon tea and thoughtful details are
included. There are also downstairs (but upmarket) dorms that are every bit as nice, with
four single beds, cane lockers and kitchen use; the only thing missing is the view.
Aguacanto LODGE $$$
( 495-5817; www.aguacanto.com.ar ; Corte 333; d/apt AR$520/750; ) Spruce rooms and
apartments surrounding a lawn featuring hammocks and one of Tilcara's most amazing
views. Service is very friendly. Prices drop off-season.
Eating
Ma'koka CAFE $
(Belgrano s/n; sandwiches AR$25-35; 8:30am-1pm & 3-9pm; ) With a gloriously ec-
lectic music mix and interesting texts on the area and the Andes in general, this likeable
bookshop-cafe has the best coffee in town as well as tasty cakes and top sandwiches on
bread made from coca or local corn varieties.
Peña de Carlitos NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $
( www.lapeniadecarlitos.com.ar ; Lavalle 397; dishes AR$25-45; 10am-midnight) This cheery
longstanding local restaurant with scrawls of happy customers adorning the walls offers
live folkloric music with no cover charge from 9:30pm every night. There's more of a
mix of locals and visitors than in most places, and low-priced ok-quality regional dishes.
Try the llama empanadas.
El Nuevo Progreso ARGENTINE $$$
( 495-5237; www.facebook.com/elnuevoprogreso ; Lavalle 351; mains AR$65-80; 6-11:30pm;
) An engaging atmosphere and delicious tourist-oriented cuisine features imaginat-
ively prepared llama dishes, excellent meat plates, interesting veggie options and great
salads. Service can be a bit stand-offish but it's well worthwhile.
El Patio ARGENTINE $$$
( 495-5044; Lavalle 352; mains AR$55-75; noon-3pm & 6.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon; )
Tucked away between plaza and church, this has a lovely shaded patio and garden seat-
ing. It offers a wide range of tasty salads, inventive llama dishes and a far-from-the-
madding-crowd atmosphere.
Arumi NORTHWEST ARGENTINE $$$
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