Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
CHILE VIA SUSQUES
The paved road climbs doggedly from Purmamarca through spectacular bleak
highland scenery to a 4150m pass, then crosses a plateau partly occupied by the
Salinas Grandes. You hit civilization at
Susques
, 130km from Purmamarca, which
has gas and an ATM.
Susques is well worth a stop for its terrific village
church
(admission by donation;
8am-6pm)
. Dating from 1598, it has a thatched roof, cactus-wood ceiling and
beaten-earth floor, as well as charismatic, naïve paintings of saints on the white-
washed adobe walls. There's a tourist office on the main road, and basic places to
stay. From Susques RN40 heads south to San Antonio de los Cobres via the
Polvorilla viaduct. It's a lonely road: check conditions before heading down it.
Daily buses run from Jujuy to Susques (AR$70, four to five hours) via
Purmamarca (AR$58).
Beyond Susques, the road continues 154km to the Paso de Jama (4230m), a
spectacular journey. This is the Chilean border, although Argentine
emigration
(
8am-midnight) is some way before it. There's gas here. No fruit, vegetables or coca
leaves are allowed into Chile - they check. The paved road continues toward San
Pedro de Atacama. Buses from Salta and Jujuy travel this route.
Tilcara
0388 / POP 4360 / ELEV 2461M
Picturesque Tilcara is many people's choice for their Quebrada de Humahuaca base. The
mixture of local farmers getting on with a centuries-old way of life and arty urban
refugees looking for a quieter existence has created an interesting balance on the town's
dusty streets.
Sights
Pucará
RUIN
(admission incl Museo Arqueológico Argentines/Latin Americans/others AR$15/20/30, Mon free;
9am-6pm)
This reconstructed pre-Columbian fortification is 1km south of the center
across an iron bridge. Its situation is undeniably strategic, commanding the river valley
both ways and, though the site was undoubtedly used before, the ruins date from the 11th
to 15th centuries. There are great views and, seemingly, a cardón cactus for every soul
that lived and died here. For further succulent stimulation, there's a cactus garden by the
entrance.
