Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
CARNAVAL IN THE QUEBRADA
Argentina's most intriguing Carnaval celebrations take place right the length of the
Quebrada in February/March. Indigenous traditions melded with the customs of the
Spanish conquerors to create a vibrant hybrid that kicks off on the Saturday 50
days before Easter Sunday. In each town, a devil figure is dug up from where he was
buried the previous year and paraded into town amid much noise, triggering an
eight-day bender of dancing and copious drinking.
Purmamarca
0388 / POP 510 / ELEV 2192M
Little Purmamarca, 3km west of the highway, sits under the celebrated Cerro de los Siete
Colores (Hill of Seven Colors), a spectacular, jagged formation resembling the marzipan
fantasy of a megalomaniac pastry chef. The village is postcard-pretty, with ochre adobe
houses and ancient algarrobo trees by the bijou 17th-century church. This, and its proxim-
ity to Jujuy, has made it very touristy; if you're looking for an authentic Andean village,
move on. Nevertheless, Purmamarca is an excellent place to shop for woven goods; a
flourishing market sets up on the plaza every day.
Apart from shopping for handicrafts, make sure you take the easy but spectacular 3km
walk around the cerro (hill), whose striking colors are best appreciated in the morning or
evening sunlight.
Sleeping
El Pequeño Inti GUESTHOUSE $
( 490-8089; Florida s/n; s/d AR$230/260) Small and enticing, this fine little choice is just
off the plaza. Offering value (for two), it has unadorned rooms with comfortable beds and
marine-schemed bathrooms.
Mama Coca HOSTEL $
( 490-8434; mamacocapurma@hotmail.com; Rivadavia s/n; dm/d AR$80/190; ) Right by
where the buses stop, this casual hostel is a simple place to hole up behind a restaurant.
It's friendly, with a small vine-shaded patio. Dorms have a decent amount of space. No
kitchen or breakfast.
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