Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
North of Cafayate, the Salta road heads through the barren and spectacular Quebrada de
Cafayate, a wild landscape of richly colored sandstone and unearthly rock formations.
Carved out by the Río de las Conchas, the canyon's twisted sedimentary strata exhibit a
stunning array of tones, from rich red ochre to ethereal green. While you get a visual
feast from the road itself - it's one of the country's more memorable drives or rides - it's
worth taking time to explore parts of the canyon. The best time to appreciate the
Quebrada is in the late afternoon, when the low sun brings out the most vivid colors.
A short way north of Cafayate, Los Médanos is an extensive dune field that gives way
to the canyon proper, where a series of distinctive landforms are named and signposted
from the road. Some, such as El Sapo (the Toad) are underwhelming, but around the
Km46-47 mark, the adjacent Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat) and Anfiteatro (Am-
phitheatre) are much more impressive. Gashes in the rock wall let you enter and appreci-
ate the tortured stone, whose clearly visible layers have been twisted by tectonic up-
heavals into extraordinary configurations.
These landmarks are heavily visited, and you may be followed by locals hoping for
some pesos for a bit of 'guiding.'
Artesanía
(handicrafts) sellers and musicians hover
too, but there's no reliable place to buy food or water.
Getting There & Away
There are several ways to see and explore the canyon. Tours from Salta are brief and re-
gimented; it's much better to take a tour or taxi from closer Cafayate. Biking it from Ca-
fayate is possible, but regular punctures makes this an unreliable option.
You could also combine the bus with walking and maybe hitching. Be aware of bus
schedules between Salta and Cafayate, and carry food and plenty of water in this hot, dry
environment. A good place to start exploration is the Garganta del Diablo; several other
attractions are within easy walking distance of here.
TOP OF CHAPTER
San Antonio de los Cobres
03873 / POP 4300 / ELEV 3775M
This dusty mining town is on the puna 168km west of Salta, and over 2600m above it.
It's suffered since the deterioration of the region's mining and associated railway, but is a
typical highland settlement, with adobe houses, near-deserted streets and a serious tem-
perature drop after sundown. It's worth stopping in to get the feel of this facet of Andean
