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cheese-sauce joints. Delicious homemade pasta includes such temptations as squid-ink
ravioli with crab, or spinach fettuccini with salmon and caper sauce.
Café del Tiempo CAFE, ARGENTINE $$$
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( www.cafe-del-tiempo.com.ar ; Balcarce 901; dishes AR$55-105; 6pm-3am Mon-Thu, 11am-4am
Fri-Sun; ) Decked out to resemble a Buenos Aires cafe, this has prices to match but of-
fers a stylish terrace in the heart of the Balcarce zone; a top spot for a drink. There's
some sort of performance or live music every night. The menu includes llama dishes and
international offerings such as chop suey, and the picadas (shared appetizer plates) are
great for a group.
José Balcarce ARGENTINE $$$
$$$
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( 421-1628; www.cocinadealtura.com.ar ; cnr Mitre & Necochea; mains AR$80-130;
8pm-12:15am) Exposed stone walls and solicitous service set the scene for a satisfying up-
market dining experience here. Starters such as llama carpaccio could be followed by sea
bass or other highland-type dishes involving lamb or trout. Ingredient quality is excel-
lent, and presentation is good without showing off. The wine list sees each grape variety
described in human terms.
Drinking & Nightlife
Peñas are the classic Salta night-time experience. The two blocks of Balcarce north of
Alsina, and the surrounding streets, are the main nightlife zone. Bars and clubs around
here tend to follow the typical boom-bust-reopen-with-new-name pattern, so just follow
your nose.
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