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it's got a peaceful, hidden-away feel that is highly seductive. It's very family friendly, the
rooms are colorful, service excellent and the pool is a decent size. Good value.
Aguapé Lodge LODGE $$$
$$$
( 03773-499412; www.iberaesteros.com.ar ; Yacaré s/n; s/d all-inclusive US$290/469; )
This luxurious colonial-style posada is in a beautiful setting above the lake. It has attract-
ive, high-ceilinged rooms, all-white walls and dark wood, along a veranda looking over
the lawn to the water, and a wide variety of excursions. Cheaper 'rustic' rooms in another
building are smaller, but also have plenty of character. Service is excellent.
Ecoposada del Estero LODGE $$$
$$$
( 03773-15-443602; www.ecoposadadelestero.com.ar ; Yaguareté s/n; s/d AR$1050/1620;
) Best in town for bird-watching, this is warmly run by a couple who know the area
intimately. Ecological design has resulted in comfortable adobe buildings with wide ver-
andas and attractive homemade wooden furnishings from various recycled materials.
Their excursions are great but you'll see plenty from here - the lodge sits right on the
edge of an estero and has abundant birdlife and a high observation platform.
Irupé Lodge LODGE $$$
$$$
( 0376-443-8312; www.ibera-argentina.com ; Ya-caré s/n; s/d US$150/200, superior US$200/
250; ) On the lake near the causeway, this rustic lodge makes you feel very wel-
come. While the rooms are satisfactory, the artistic wooden furniture, the pool and the
views across the water are the highlights. The superior rooms are a lot better, more at-
tractive and sizable with greater privacy, air-con and private verandas. This price doesn't
include excursions. Argentines pay around 15% less.
Around Reserve Provincial Esteros del Iberá
Estancia Rincón del Socorro LODGE $$$
$$$
( 03782-497073; www.rincondelsocorro.com ; s/d incl full board & excursions US$480/640;
) Off the Mercedes road, 31km south of Pellegrini, this ranch, owned by ecocam-
paigner Doug Tompkins, is a place in which to come to terms with the big sky and
abundant wildlife. It's substantial country comfort rather than luxury; the pretty rooms
interconnect, making them great for family stays, while freestanding cabins sleep two.
Around the complex, vast lawns blend into pastureland and contemplation. If this isn't
remote enough, head over to San Alonso, its sister estancia, only reachable by plane.
 
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