Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Getting Around
Local bus 109 (AR$2.70) goes to the
airport
( 445-8358; RN 12)
, about 10km east of
town. Bus 103 runs between the local bus terminal, downtown and the long-distance bus
terminal on Av Maipú. A taxi to/from the long-distance bus terminal will cost AR$25 to
AR$30.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Mercedes
03773 / POP 40,700
The main access point for the spectacular Esteros del Iberá wetlands, Mercedes is a
rather handsome gaucho town with a mightily easy pace to life. Its claim to fame is the
nearby - and completely surreal - roadside shrine to the gaucho Antonio Gil, an enorm-
ously popular religious phenomenon.
GAUCHITO GIL
Spend time on the road anywhere in Argentina and you're bound to see at least
one roadside shrine surrounded by red flags and votive offerings. These shrines
pay homage to Antonio Gil, a Robin Hood-like figure whose burial place 9km west
of Mercedes attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims every year.
Little is known for sure about 'El Gauchito,' as he is affectionately known, but
many romantic tales have sprung up to fill the gaps. What is known is that he was
born in 1847 and joined the army - some versions say to escape the wrath of a loc-
al policeman whose fiancée had fallen in love with him - to fight in the War of the
Triple Alliance.
Once the war ended, Gil was called up to join the Federalist Army, but went on
the run with a couple of other deserters. The trio roamed the countryside, stealing
cattle from rich landowners and sharing it with poor villagers, who in turn gave
them shelter and protection. The law finally caught up with the gang, and Gil was
hung by the feet from the espinillo tree that still stands near his grave, and be-
headed.
So how did this freeloading, cattle-rustling deserter attain saintlike status? Mo-
ments before his death, Gil informed his executioner that the executioner's son
was gravely ill. He told the soldier that if he were buried - not the custom with
deserters - the man's son would recover.
After lopping off Gil's head, the executioner carried it back to the town of Goya
where - of course - a judicial pardon awaited Gil. On finding that his son was in-
