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( 452045; www.lacinacina.com.ar ; Zerboni s/n; d midweek/weekend AR$1000/1500; )
On the edge of town, this touristy estancia offers comfortable lodgings in a pretty park
setting. Weekend rates include daily horseback rides.
La Porteña ESTANCIA $$$
$$$
( in Buenos Aires 15-5626-7347; www.laporteniadeareco.com ; RN8, Km110; día de campo
AR$600, d incl full board AR$1800-2400; ) Lovely grounds and historic location - this is
where Ricardo Güiraldes wrote his gaucho epic Don Segunda Sombra . Good but not
luxurious facilities and plentiful food; polo lessons available.
El Ombú ESTANCIA $$$
$$$
( 492080; www.estanciaelombu.com ; RP31, Cuartel VI, Villa Lía; día de campo AR$600, s/d incl
full board AR$1500/2500; ) This 300-hectare working estancia is located about 20km
from Areco. You can watch and even take part in managing cattle herds - or play golf
and tennis at a nearby country club.
Eating
Boliche de Bessonart ARGENTINE $
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(cnr Zapiola & Segundo Sombra; picadas AR$10-65; 11am-late Tue-Sun) Its shelves and walls
filled with dusty bottles and and old gaucho photos, this weatherbeaten corner bar has
been run by the Bessonart family for 60 years. Crowds of locals pour in nightly for pica-
das (shared appetizer plates), accompanied by beers or Fernet (a bitter aromatic spirit)
mixed with Coca Cola.
La Esquina de Merti ARGENTINE $
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(Arellano 147; mains AR$40-82; 9am-midnight) Right on the plaza is this cafe-restaurant
with great old feel. Typical parrilla is on offer, but there are also milanesas (breaded cut-
lets), pasta and some finer dishes too.
Puesto La Lechuza PARRILLA $
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( 470136; Victorino Althaparro 423; mains AR$45-75; noon-3pm & 8pm-midnight Sat,
noon-3pm Sun) Best on a warm day, when you can enjoy a lunch of empanadas (baked sa-
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