Buenos Aires - Argentina - page 131

Museo de la Pasión Boquense MUSEUM
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( 4362-1100; www.museoboquense.com ; Brandsen 805; admission from AR$60; 10am-6pm)
High tech and spiffy, this fútbol museum chronicles the rough-and-tumble neighborhood
of La Boca, La Bombonera Stadium, fútbol idols' histories, video highlights, the champi-
onships, the trophies and, of course, the gooooals. There's a 360-degree theater in a giant
fútbol -ball auditorium, an old jersey collection and a gift shop. The museum is right un-
der the stadium, a couple of blocks from the tourist part of El Caminito; get a tour of the
pitch for a few extra pesos.
LA BOCA WARNING
La Boca is not the kind of neighborhood for casual strolls - it can be downright
rough in spots. Don't stray far from the riverside walk, El Caminito or La Bom-
bonera Stadium, especially while toting expensive cameras. And certainly don't
cross the bridge over the Riachuelo. There's nothing you'd really want to see out-
side the touristy areas, anyway. Buses 29, 64 and 152 go from Palermo or the city
center to La Boca. Taxis are best after dark.
Retiro
Well-located Retiro is one of the ritziest neighborhoods in BA - but it hasn't always been
this way. The area was the site of a monastery during the 17th century and later became
the retiro (country retreat) of Agustín de Robles, a Spanish governor. Since then, Retiro's
current Plaza San Martín - which sits on a bluff - has played host to a slave market, a
military fort and even a bullring. Things are more quiet and exclusive these days.
Plaza San Martín PLAZA
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French landscape architect Carlos Thays designed the leafy Plaza San Martín, which is
surrounded by some of BA's most impressive public buildings. The park's most promin-
ent monument is the obligatory equestrian statue of José de San Martín ; important vis-
iting dignitaries often come to honor the country's liberator by leaving wreaths at its
base. On the downhill side of the park you'll see the Monumento a los Caídos de Malv-
inas OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP , a memorial to the young men who died in the
Falklands War (Guerra de las Malvinas).