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been converted into ritzy lofts, business offices and upscale restaurants. Today this
neighborhood holds some of BA's most expensive real estate.
In the mid-19th century the city's mudflats were transformed into a modernized port
for Argentina's burgeoning international commerce. Puerto Madero was completed in
1898, but it had exceeded its budget - and by 1910 the amount of cargo was already too
great for the new port. Only the 1926 completion of Retiro's Puerto Nuevo solved these
problems.
Reserva Ecológica
Costanera Sur NATURE RESERVE
( 4893-1588; Av Tristán Achavat Rodríguez 1550; 8am-7pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar, to 6pm Apr-
Oct) The beautifully marshy land of this 350-hectare nature reserve has become a
popular site for weekend picnics and walks. Bring binoculars if you're a birder - over
200 bird species can be spotted, along with river turtles, iguanas and nutria. Further in at
the eastern shoreline of the reserve you can get a close-up view of the Río de la Plata's
muddy waters.
Tours are given on weekends; monthly Friday night full moon tours are also available
(call for schedules). On warm weekends and holidays you can rent bikes just outside
either the northern or southern entrances.
Colección de Arte Amalia
Lacroze de Fortabat MUSEUM
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP
(Museo Fortabat; 4310-6600; www.coleccionfortabat.org.ar ; Olga Cossettini 141; admission
AR$35; noon-8pm Tue-Sun) Rivaling Palermo's Malba for cutting-edge looks is this
stunning art museum, prominently located at the northern end of Puerto Madero. It
shows off the collection of billionairess, philanthropist and socialite Amalia Lacroze de
Fortabat, Argentina's wealthiest woman. There are galleries devoted to Antonio Berni
and Raúl Soldi (both famous Argentine painters), and works by international stars like
Dali, Klimt, Rodin and Chagall; look for Warhol's colorful take on Fortabat herself in the
family portrait gallery.
Faena Arts Center ARTS CENTER
( 4010-9233; www.faenaartscenter.org ; Aime Paine 1169; admission AR$40, free Mon; varies
depending on exhibition) This very large, airy art space - in a beautifully renovated flour
mill - highlights the contemporary dreams of local and international artists and design-
ers. You should expect the most cutting-edge exhibits that utilize these spaces to the
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