Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Uruguay's two main ranges of interior hills are the Cuchilla de Haedo, west of
Tacuarembó, and the Cuchilla Grande, south of Melo; neither exceeds 500m in height.
West of Montevideo the terrain is more level. The Río Negro flowing through the center
of the country forms a natural dividing line between north and south. The Atlantic coast
has impressive beaches, dunes, headlands and lagoons. Uruguay's grasslands and forests
resemble those of Argentina's pampas or southern Brazil, and patches of palm savanna
persist in the east, along the Brazilian border.
The country is rich in birdlife, especially in the coastal lagoons of Rocha department.
Most large land animals have disappeared, but the occasional ñandú (rhea) still races
across northwestern Uruguay's grasslands. Whales, fur seals and sea lions are common
along the coast.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
URUGUAY'S OFF-THE-BEATEN-TRACK NATURE PRESERVES
Uruguay's interior, with its vast open spaces, is a naturalist's dream. The Uruguay-
an government has designated several natural areas for protection under its
SNAP
(Sistema Nacional de Áreas Protegidas;
www.snap.gub.uy
)
program. Funding remains minimal,
and tourist infrastructure rudimentary, but intrepid travelers will be richly rewar-
ded for seeking out these little-visited spots. Below are two preserves that best
capture the spirit of Uruguay's wild gaucho country. Other SNAP preserves men-
tioned in this topic include Cabo Polonio (
Click here
)
, Cerro Verde (
Click here
) and
Laguna de Rocha (
Click here
)
.
Valle del Lunarejo
This gorgeous valley, 95km north of Tacuarembó, is a place of marvelous peace
and isolation, with birds and rushing water providing the only soundtrack.
Visitors can spend the night at enchanting
Posada Lunarejo
( 4650-6400;
www.posadalunarejo.com
; Ruta 30, Km238; r per person incl breakfast/full board UR$1200/1800)
, a re-
stored 1880 building 2km off the main road, 3km from the river and a few steps
from a garza (crane) colony.
Lunarejo on its daily Montevideo-Tacuarembó-Artigas bus (leaving Montevideo at
noon, UR$673, six hours; leaving Tacuarembó at 4:50pm, UR$115, 1¼ hours).
Posada Lunarejo can meet your bus if you call ahead.
Quebrada de los Cuervos
This hidden little canyon cuts through the rolling hill country 40km northwest of
Treinta y Tres (325km northeast of Montevideo), providing an unexpectedly moist
